mad082

if you want a really good shine you need to lightly sand it between coats as well as giving it a good polish after the clear.

yeah it is to protect the paint on the bonnet from bubbling, etc if the engine gets too hot

ummm, but ACA is on channel 9 and the new season of topgear is on channel 9..........

hey dumbass, that is from feb last year, and it only applies to modifications. basically it means you can't put a 427 chev engine in a gemini. has nothing to do with what the manufacturers put in their cars from the factory.

i'd have to say they sound more like cows than vaccum cleaners. seriously there is a few that used to always turn up to motorkhanas and they both sounded like cows mooing when they take off. and the other ones in town sound similar, but not quite as bovine like. also what lets toyota down with when it comes to their cars is the interior. the dash on the soarer and the supra are the 2 sole reasons i would never own one.

yeah as above, start with the sensor/plug on the gearbox

that makes it even worse, LOL

http://www.gtplanet.net/gran-turismo-5s-im...-flying-debris/ also just read something that said that they now expect the release date to be november 1, 2010. which basically means, christmas 2011

did it fog up the inside or outside? also not having aircon can make the inside fog up in the wet, etc, especially if you have just had to run through rain to get into the car. the aircon pumps out dry air and so the moisture gets dispersed a bit as it mixes with the dry air. no aircon just pumps around moist air so the moisture just builds up

if that is the case then it's the aircon

you should be able to. you may have to pay a small fee for new plates but that's all. i know that up here in qld you just fill in a form and take it into the department of transport and pay about $20 for the new plates

have seen an orange 32 round gympie a few times lately. looks like one that used to be here a few years back. very similar orange to that of the BA falcons.

i would be more worried about people hurting themselves with the tyre levers trying to get the tyre off the rim than actually hurting themselves filing the rim (i've changed a few sets of tyres on rims manually before and have had 1 or 2 close calls with tyre levers going flying up into the air). if you were worried about running the car to smooth out the rim, you could always just take the rim off and sit it on the ground and file it. wouldn't come out as nice though.

to anyone and is worried about the pump sucking up crap and getting damaged, this will only happen if you tank has a build up of crap. if you want to minimise this risk, before you remove the old pump, wait until you get low on fuel and then remove the fuel cap then go to the engine bay and remove the fuel hose from the fuel filter in the engine bay and put the end of it into a big bucket (i would leave the fuel filter attached and disconnet the hose after the fuel filter, you'll understand why in a second). then with the end of the hose in the bucket, turn the ignition on (don't start the car though). this should get the pump to start and start pumping the fuel into the bucket. when the bucket is nearly full, turn off the ignition. leaving the filter on should catch most of the crap coming out of the tank, meaning that this fuel should be pretty clean. tip this back into the tank. try to do this fast so you can stir up any crap on the bottom of the tank. then repeat the process 1 or 2 times. the sock on the pump will stop a lot of the bigger crap getting through (although a suprising amount will still get through), but the smaller stuff which is what can damage the pump over time will and it will get caught by the filter. then just have a new filter to go in when you put the new pump in and bob's your aunty. i should note that i did just make that up (just popped into my head) and have never tried it, so if anyone sees a fault in the method please post up. also if you regularly run your tank down very low you will find that you actually have a clean tank as most of the crap will have already been sucked up by the pump, and is probably lodged in the filter already. and if you get your fuel from an old servo, replacing the filter every second or third oil change probably wouldn't be a bad thing either. some of the older servos have rust and crap at the bottom of the tanks, although if the servo has a high turnover then it would be safe to say that the crap doesn't get to settle at the bottom much so there isn't much need to worry.

ok 2 things, first: USE THE FUCKING SEARCH FUNCTION!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! sorry but this has been covered 432.6 million times already on this forum and about every week a new fuel economy thread pops up. secondly: "a tank" is not a unit of measure unless you are running it until the car stalls then filling up to the top. unless you post up how many litres you are actually putting in we will not know if you are getting shit fuel economy or have a dodgy fuel sender or if you consider just under half a tank to be empty. to find out if you have bad economy, reset the trip meter next time you fill up, then the next time after that when you fill up divide how many litres you have used by how many hundred kms you have done and then you will get a fuel economy reading in L/100kms. the higher the number the worse it is. for example, lets say you used 45L to do 368km 45 diveded 3.86 (because you are diving by lots of 100kms, not just kms) = 12.22L/100kms as to give you an indication of what is good, and what is bad, for highway/motorway driving anything down around 10 is good. for city driving, 13 or so is good. i was getting around 17L/100kms but i am a leadfoot and the type of driving i was doing wasn't going to allow me as good fuel economy as some others even if i wasn't a lead foot. on long trips though i was getting around 10L/100kms. if you are getting 13 or 14 from highway driving, get a new o2 sensor (again, sarch for info on that). also the more time you spend boosting up when acceleration, the more fuel you will us. accelerate a bit easier and keep the boost lower and you will use less fuel.

the exhaust manifolds are completely different. i found a few pics to show you what i mean. the NA system i am showing is off a rb30, but it is pretty much the same as a rb25 or rb20. rb25 turbo manifold. you can see where the turbo bolts to rb30 stock manifold and extractors side by side. note where the front pipe meets the headers on the stock setup. totally different location to the turbo manifold, and on the extractors are 1 piece GTScoT, do you think that lancers with cannons, or hyundais with cannons, or even commodores with cannons are ok? most people on this forum will say no that is stupid, but will then put them on their car. somehow the rules don't apply to them. it is either all or none. i personally don't mind the cannons on any car (have owned 3 cars with cannons, one 1 i put on, but that was because it was part of the exhaust system i bought and couldn't be bothered spending the money on a different muffler) provided the right type is used (and if need be with other mufflers/resonators) to get a decent sound, however if i was building an exhaust system from scratch i wouldn't put a cannon on, not even on a skyline.

on reason why it could be the heat from the engine is if the engine has a coolant leak and the heat is causing the coolant to boil and the resulting steam is fogging up wht windscreen. in which case, you might want to check the coolant level before you drive the car next to make sure that isn't happening

and at the end of the day you are reducing the output of your headlights. even if the amount is minute. i'm all for safety when it comes to visibility at night. that is why i also see tinting tail lights as one of the most stupid mods you can do "i know, lets do something that makes it harder to tell when i am putting the brakes on so that i have more chance of someone running into the back of my car, and then giving the insurance company a reason to refuse to pay because of an illegal mod i have done to my car"

that sounds extremely odd

has more power yes, but the sr20 has more torque. and as you pointed out, the 180sx is lighter, so in standard form it will be as quick as a 33, which is faster than the 32 (close to 1/2 a second faster over the 1/4 mile)

how long until you get off your p's? the reason i ask is that if it isn't that long (like a year or so), i wouldn't bother doing extractors. just get the catback. save the money for the turbo upgrade as you will only have to ditch the extractors when you put the turbo manifold on

the plug on the TPS is definately different. so it is easier to just change the throttle body than the TPS. as for the afm, i am pretty sure that the plugs are different, or at least have different numbers of wires. could be wrong though, but it is a pretty simple job, so not hard to do. and if he is getting just the motor it might not have the afm on it anyway

high beams and headlights are both H1, parkers are T10 (standard park light globes) also if you had searched you would've found many threads on this

is it only fogging up if you have the demister on? if so, it may be that the aircon is the cause of the issue. if i drive for too long with the demister on on a cool night it actually starts to ice up the windscreen. solution is to turn the heater on and defrost it.

that is a bit slower than i expected. would've thought it would've been able to get into the high 14's, even being an auto. where you loading it up on the brakes when you were launching or just punching it when the light went green? reason i ask is i was able to get a v6 magna with just a catback exhaust to run a 14.8 @ 93mph with a 2.187 60ft