mad082

also the gearing in commodores is much taller than any skyline. generally about 35% taller. that is a manual commodore compared to a GTS-t. compare it to a gts4 it would nearly be twice as tall. that is the thing with the commodores and falcons. they will go as fast, or faster than a skyline (top speed wise) in most gears and yet they will be reving around 2000rpm less. so in the case of the gts4, taking off in second gear would be the same as taking off in first gear in the commodore. that kind of puts their performance into perspective. shortening up the diff ratio but 10 or 20% can make a massive difference to how fast a commodore is.

how many of you magna haters have actually driven a manual 3.5L magna? i've owned 2 of them, a falcon and a commodore. the magnas were faster than both the falcon and the commodore. and the night i took it to the drags there were vn 5.0L commodores unable to get into the 14's yet i was able to do it with just a catback exhaust. the auto's are a different story due to rediculously tall gear ratios. they will do 150kmh in second. as for handling, they aren't that bad. not that great but not that bad. no worse than a falcon or commodore. just a different feel that the falcon or commodore.

ok yeah, so it sounds like it's your clutch. in which case i would try to drive it as little as possible or you may damage the flywheel (if it isn't damaged already)

if the iphone is compared to a rock, would the ipad be a boulder?

+1 for toe being a bigger problem than camber on front wheels. on the front have bad camber only puts a bit of extra weight on the inside edge, but when you corner the outside wheels will sit flatter. but having too much toe out means that the wheel isn't actually turning in the same direction as the car is moving so you end up with the tyre skidding along as well as spinning. i had the inside edge of the tyres on my pulsar wear out despite have less than 0.5 degrees of camber, but i had over 2mm of toe out. getting a wheel alignment so there was only about 0.5mm of toe out also dramatically reduced the amount of torque steer.

+1 for the pigeons. as for your tyre letting go, driving on it flat is what did the damage. then it probably would've had an egg on the side which caused the vibration and it eventually let go. oh and i check/alter the pressure in my spare every 6 months.

anywhere from about 15 to 25 seconds for the 1/4. it really depends on so many things. driver, mods, setup, tyres, how tired the engine is, any mechanical issues, etc. but to narrow it down a bit, i'd say round the 16 to 17 second bracket. but if you have crappy cheap tyres and coilovers you can expect it to be 17 to 18 seconds. coilovers are the worst mod to do if you want fast times. all they do is promote wheelspin from lack of weight transfer, even with the awd setup

apple could just send them out a piece of cardboard with a picture glued to it and i think even then 80% of apple fans wouldn't complain, LOL

does the revs change at all? if the revs pick up but speed doesn't then it is your clutch. if not then you can rule the clutch out may possibly by the CAS (crank angle sensor), or the timing. something may be going on there where the CAS is either fully retarded or is malfunctioning to give faulty timing readings. a car with the timing fully retarded will be as slow as anything

could just be that the motor is dead, or just blocked.

when you say it struggles up hills, what do you mean exactly? if it is misfiring and running like shit then it could be your coils or ignitor pack. they often start playing up when they get hot

if you want a fast NA 6 cylinder get a manual 3.5L magna. will do high 14's.

and look at how small and crappy they make the brakes look (not so much on a GTR, but on a GTS-t)

and to put it into perspective as to what could cause the problems could be, here is a quick list of mechanical things that just popped into my head that could cause the loss of performance tired engine partially blocked cat slightly sticky brakes damaged wheel bearing slipping clutch poor quality fuel (and ECU is retarding timing due to pinging) dodgy afm dodgy coils or spark plugs you get the picture. also it could just be that the G-tech isn't accurate or your speedo is out (although speedo's generally read over and not under so would give you a faster time not a slower one)

is the car auto or manual (did they even come in auto?)? and how were you launching, etc? depending on that the answers are to these questions will determine whether it is you or the car. but they aren't the fastest car in the world. also they aren't new cars anymore, so if the engine is a bit tired then that can affect performance as well.

he could use those part numbers to find bosche equivilants if he wanted to use bosch. and my recommendation is the BCPR6ES plugs. don't waste the money on the iridiums. not worth it in my opinion.

i know people who have done it with spray cans, i know people who have done it with normal car paint acrylic from a spray gun. both have worked fine and lasted well.

i had a car with dark tint once. was a mega pain in the arse when reversing. had to hang out the window to see where you were going

this is the parameters that are used by the factory ecu in the pulsars

i think you will find that 90% of people working in retail these days (in all areas of retail) are only doing it as a job and have no idea about what they are selling. my mother went to bcf with her boyfriend's son to get fishing line. asked what size they should get, they didn't have a clue. so she rang me and i explained it to her and she was able to buy what they needed.

funny thing about 300zx's is that i see more people over 50 driving them then i do young people. my mate's parents own one. he's a mechanic and told them if they want it fixed to take it to someone else, LOL

if it only comes on when you hit bumps, etc then i'd say that the cat temp sensor is stuffed and it is shorting out. same thing happened in my 33. i just cut the wires and the light never bothered me again

wow, that is going to town with the cooling control. the staying on for a few mins after you turn the car off isn't a bad idea, as long as it doesn't malfunction and run for hours and flattern the battery. i know that in my pulsar there are a few different factory settings. i will take a screenshot of the workshop manual at work tomoro because i can't remember what they are, but i know there is speed dependant settings and aircon dependant settings. 2 other cars with factory thermos you could measure up would be V6 magna or GTiR pulsar fans.

start by cleaning the IAC and AAC valves. do a search and you will find a thread on how to do it. it causes a large % of stalling issues, especially when an accessory is turned on.

LULZ