mad082

my pulsar also has nothing in the ecu to indicate faulty fuel pump as far as i'm aware. or if it does it would only be to say that the fuel pump isn't recieving the correct voltage, etc. not to say what the fuel pressure is like. i don't think you will find too many cars the same age as most skylines that actually monitor fuel pressure. some newer cars might, but not the older stuff. as for fuel, i think you will find that there are plenty of people also running e10 in some for or other in their car who haven't had issues. how can you be sure that it was caused by the ethanol and not old age? how do you know that they simply weren't faulty seals? the reason i say this is that there are a hell of a lot of ethanol blend fuels out there and plenty of people on this forum are using them. hell some are even running e85.

actually stock headers are tuned length. they are tuned for low rpm torque and economy. aftermarket headers are tuned for top end power. anything designed for performance use isn't going have much time put into seeing how it will performs at 2000rpm with light throttle since no one on a track day is going to be coming out of a corner at 2000rpm in 4th gear when they could drop it back to second and accelerate much harder. performance headers have most of their tuning done around the mid to top end. that is why it isn't uncommon to lose a slight amount of fuel economy after fitting extractors if you only drive like a granny round town.

yeah that sounds about right. when i got my magna regassed it was about 9 degrees and my pulsar went down to about 5 degrees, but that was done in winter at about 5:30 in the afternoon so it was cold already.

i have seen a few skylines with LED tail lights and so far none of them have looked any good. sure on the 32 they may look modern, but they are something modern on an older car. it just stands out and looks out of place. it's like seeing a 60 year old woman with fake boobs. just doesn't look right.

it does sound like it is the coil packs giving out. this is a common problem however not that cheap to fix. there is a slight chance it is the crank angle sensor however 99% of the time the missfire is caused by failing coil packs.

the shell v-power racing that used to be around was an ethanol blend, and i'm pretty sure the new bp ultimate is also an ethanol blend and people ran these without any issues. most people only seem to have issues on older cars and they find it starts making them run crap after a while. i put this down to the fact that ethanol blends have a cleaning effect and in a car with a lot of crap in the fuel tank, lines and filter can end up with this being broken down and ending up in the injectors. my advice would be that if you do plan on using it and haven't changed your fuel filter for a little while, do that first. then in 6 months time change it again. i've been running e10 in my SSS pulsar (and other cars i have owned in that time too) for quite a few years now and have never had an issue.

as above, it is ok to purchase the car provided you go about it the correct way (which is what was stated above).

most people on here will be aware that the ecu doesn't check things like that. as for E10, i've been running it for about 3 years now in my SSS pulsar and it has never missed a beat. my in laws run it in their cars (have been for about the same, maybe longer), also with no issues.

hub dynos might be more accurate than wheel dynos, but they often give totally different results. basically my point is, unless the 2 cars are run on the same dyno on the same day and tied down the same, you can't really compare them.

not really. if the tune was done properly then it should still be well within it's limits, considering that people with the stock ecu more than double the low boost setting if they wind the boost up to 11 or 12psi, plus add FMICs and turbo back exhausts and the ecu still copes. in some cases they would be gaining close up to around 70kw over stock. any gain from dropping the exhaust off would be 10 or 15kw, which would be less than the difference between a cool winters night and a hot summers day yes i do agree with you there, however i was merely pointing out that they don't just have an open exhaust.

you not working at autobarn anymore? i haven't been in much lately, but heading there after work today

need to join to see what's in the link and i couldn't be bothered.

on your power setup it wouldn't make a huge amount of difference. but should make it a touch quicker

could be that when you washed it down the moisture has gotten in somewhere it shouldn't have and even though it may have dried out now it may have caused some damage to a coil pack or something like that. may also be worth going round with a can of wd40 or something like that and spraying it into any electrical plug you can get to easily. also do a search on here of how to tape up the coil packs. that might be worth trying as well.

do you happen to have any software that will fastly kill you so you stop spamming? if so, please use it

actually they have tuned length headers. they have made the length of those pipes to the exact length that they need to make maximum power. they haven't just slapped on a few lengths of pipe to simple have the flames clear the engine block. ok, the 35 degree day certainly wouldn't have helped things, but other than that it is slow for the mods. also width of tyres doesnt mean much. a cheap set of 245 tyres will spin easily, while a set of decent 225 tyres will grip better than the cheaper wider tyres. my mate had a 33 making about 175kw (stock turbo, turbo back exhaust, crappy remapped ecu and the engine was tired) and was able to run 13.8. another mate of mine (a member on here) was able to run 13.6 with 200kw (mods were stock turbo at 13psi, pfc, fmic and turbo back exhaust on street tyres). as for talking about heatsoak, the stock side mount cooler will be suffering a bit from heatsoak by the time you have finished your burnout. then will be suffering from heatsoak badly by the time you have changed into 3rd gear on your run, especially on a 32 degree day.

how are you checking the timing? with a timing light or on the ecu? either way, the timing doesn't stay the same throughout the rev range. that is the point of the ecu. it controls the timing. either way, 30 degrees advance is WAY too much timing (if you have set that with a timing light at idle). it will ping its arse off and destroy your engine pretty quickly. you should have your timing set at about 15 degrees. as for the bogging down, that is more than likely going to be caused by either faulty coil packs, ignitor or spark plugs. although you may also have a faulty crank angle sensor

i stand by my statement of 19's or bigger being for people trying to impress 14 year olds. for starters they make your brakes look like you took them off a barina. secondly they make your ride much rougher which then in turn starts rapidly damaging other things such as suspension and engine mounts, etc. thirdly, if you hit the slightest pothole then you're more then likely to stuff a wheel and tyre, resulting in more money spent. forthly, they are stupidly expensive to buy both the rims and the tyres. fifthly they weigh more than smaller ones, therefore slow you down. i guess it comes down to whether you are the type of person who likes people to look at you (although in the case of 20" wheels they will probably be looking and saying your car looks like shit), or if you like to spend money on mods that make your car perform better. my experience is that a large portion of people with stupidly big wheels will also usually have no (or very few) mods under the hood.

times are changing and we are becoming ever more dependant on technology. and the problem is that an ever decreasing amount of the population actually knows the sort of skills we need to survive if and when the shit hits the fan.

nah sorry mate, the wheels are gone. you could try a wreckers or on the magna forums

i was just looking through this thread and saw the discussion about lammy426's power figures. you have to remember he is in england, and it's winter over there, so nice chilly air temps which will give much better power. if he was to bring it to australia and run it on a 30 degree day it would ping it's arse off and he would be making much less power. also lammy, you say "at the hubs" does that mean you are using a hub dyno? if so, they are known to give different results to wheel dynos

yeah but what mods were done to the supra and what mods to the f6 and the gts-t? sure a supra that has had 10k of headwork done will beat a stock supra, but in stock form against a mildly modded 33 the supra should lose, unless the 33 driver is a stooge or has super stiff coil overs and crappy tyres and loses simply from lack of traction.

i think they are the same as the turbo r34 ones, but i'm not certain on that

not really. the principle is the same. and besides, if they don't know anything about fishing line, how will they know about the tents they sell, the gps systems, safety equipment, etc. there are some big ticket items there, and some which could end in serious injury if the person was sold the wrong thing (such as gas bottle fittings, etc). my point throughout this thread has been that in every industry, and in a large portion of businesses out there you will get useless people. and if you really feel so strongly about the poor service you are getting, speak to the manager or owner about it and don't just have a sulk on an internet forum about it. but if you do go and speak to the manager or owner, give them feedback rather than going in there and abusing them. don't go in there all angry because that won't get you anywhere (having worked in retail for 10 years now, if someone comes in and abuses me i do just enough to shut them up and nothing more, but if they are calm and polite i will be more helpful and do more to make the customer happy. in some instances i have simply refused to deal with the customer while they are being abusive). also try to refrain from saying things like "someone on the internet said it was the wrong part" and other things like that as not all information on the internet is correct and i have had some repsected members of this forum tell me information that was totally incorrect.

again, that isn't a genuine nissan product. that is an aftermarket built car. sort of a bit like the RUF porsches. they take a new car and change it/tune it. they aren't actually built that way by nissan.