mad082

it'd say it is possibly likely due to some dick filling in the initial compliance papers incorrectly.

i am assuming that your intercooler is one that uses the stock piping route then? either way, no it shouldn't make much difference. it sounds like you may have a hose clamp not done up quite tight enough or a hose not all the way on. a front mount shouldn't make much difference to the way the car feels, and certainly not an extremely noticable difference (unless of course the cooler is a very poorly made one). double check all the joiners are on securely and all clamps are tight.

i must say that i may be going to steal this idea, but not for a car. i am doing up an old trike (adults tricycle - i own a bike shop for those who don't know) and i'm thinking that after i paint it i might have the missus draw something on it (i can't even draw a stick figure without it looking retarded, so i'm not even going to bother picking up the pen). will post that up when i get around to it. i've been working on getting the trike done for about 3 years now. after about a month i had it sanded and primered. the rest of the time it has been sitting in the corner. but going to buy a compressor tomorrow (so i can paint my car as well) so it should get done soon.

why bother painting so much of the rotor then? why not simply cut a hole in a piece of newspaper the size of the hub and save yourself a heap of time? and you gotta love how a set of 20" rims make decent size brakes look like you have brakes off a barina.

i looked at your full post there, and what pipe are you measuring the temp off? cause if your water temp is getting as low as 30 degrees when driving then you are obviously measuring the water coming out of the radiator and not what is coming out of the head. or your gauge is totally stuffed. or was the 30 and 45 degrees the temp of the water coming out of the head and the car is still running up to around 80 degrees. also i wasn't saying that if the fan isn't working properly that the engine could overheat, but i was saying that the fan may possibly be working properly but you may actually have an overheating problem in the engine which you are ignoring. next time you have the car running you grab a hold of something steel in the engine bay and find out just how hot it can get. also correct me if i'm wrong, but the viscous coupling is touching more than just 4 nuts. now coorect me if i'm wrong, but it actually sits on an alloy pulley, and as you just said, alloy conducts heat very well.

yeah as above, the battery may have been on the shelf for a year. but either way, if it is dropping charge after 1 start then it is stuffed no matter how old it is.

and tell me, what is the main contributing factor of air temps in the engine bay? the coolant temp. if the coolant temp is sky high, even on a cool day the engine bay temps are going to he higher since a majority of the air coming into the engine bay is being drawn through the radiator. also since the fan attatches onto the front of the water pump, which is going to absorb heat from the coolant and thus the viscous coupling is also going to absorb some of the heat from the water pump, once again the coolant temp is indirectly affecting the workings off the fan. also any heat radiating off the engine will also be directly related to the coolant temp. the lower the coolant temp the lower the temp of the engine block and the lower the temp of the air in the engine bay. unlike you the OP doesn't appear to have actually checked (or at least hasn't posted up about it) to see what his water temps are when his fan is roaring. in your case, your viscous coupling is obviously stuff and staying locked up, but in the case of the OP, his car may possibly have a cooling system issue that is cause the car to nearly boil, but he isn't bothering to look into that, he just wants people to post up the ambient temp that their fans are coming in at, which is a pointless exercise as every car will be different as not everyone's cooling system will be work at the same effeciency as others. if someones radiator is 15% blocked then their fan will kick in at a lower them than someone with a brand new radiator. so the OP should be looking at what temp his engine is actually running at as that will immediately tell him whether his fan is working properly or not and he could've had his problem solved 2 months ago.

sounds like the battery is dead. only solution is to get a new one.

+1 for boost leak. and a big one by the sounds of it.

19" or bigger = pretty boy wanting attention from 14 year old girls

first of all, have someone help you. that will make like easier. then have them sit in the car and pull and hold the release while you try and lift open the bonnet. if need be get a screwdriver to try and help lever it up. also if you know which way it was catching, try and use the screwdriver on the side of the boot to push it in the direction it needs to go to try and free it up a bit.

i'll be down the coast on the weekend, but probably saturday and not sunday. but still, keep an eye out for a n15 pulsar with personalised plates of my user name. probably be parked on bradman ave at some point doing some fishing. really need to find where i put my SAU sticker so i can put it on the car

if it was the headgasket you would at least get some sort of smokey haze when starting the car after it had been sitting for a while, so i would leave it as being the last thing on the list to look at. i would start with the radiator as even if it isn't the only cause, it is probably going to be a major cause and getting it sorted would be a good thing either way. i would also get a new radiator cap just to see what that does. they are pretty cheap so if it doesn't change things there it isn't much of a loss. just make sure that you get a cap rated to the same pressure. i'm not a fan of using caps with higher pressures than standard as it can cause issues in other areas. also, this may sound a bit silly, but you are putting coolant back in the system aren't you? you aren't just filling it up with just water? if you are, then get your radiator cleaned (as it will probably be rusting up pretty quickly now) and then get some proper coolant.

so it was a paintless dent repair (too lazy to look up link)?

they should be able to give you a rough quote if you just tell them that the clear coat has lifted.

the only thing that lets it down for me on the sides is the gaps that it will have. surely it wouldn't have been that hard to have it all join in together

yeah as above, start with the radiator. if the coolant was rusty looking then you can pretty much garantee that that radiator is going to be a bit blocked, and just normal flushing won't do a thing to solve this

looks like you have the typical case of the clear coat lifting. you could just get the roof resprayed and they would blend it in on the sides. that would probably only cost you $1000 or less. i just got a quote from a panel shop to have the whole drivers side of the pulsar resprayed and it was about $1150 and that was for front and rear bars, both doors and both 1/4 panels and the paint is metallic. the bars added a fair bit to the price because of the cost of removing them. and it was in 2 pack paint. if you just wanted to do it on the cheap then just get the roof done and i seriously think it would only cost about $600-$700 max (just depending on the place)

probably paid with some spare change he found down the back of the lounge.....

it doesn't actually go off a boost pressure but off the afm signal. once it gets to a range it thinks is too high it packs up it's bat and ball and goes crying home to mum. if you are chasing 230kw you will struggle with the stock ecu. if i was you i would sell the safc and invest in a nistune. a lot of people will also say PFC, but a nistune will do pretty much the same thing at about half the price. you'll just need to get yourself a z32 ecu to put the nistune board into. depending on where you are, you could have a talk to uras as he does a bit of work on them (pretty sure it's uras)

yeah nice work mate. will be interesting to see how well the bog lasts

i have been told that you can put 2k clear over the top of acrylic, but unsure about it

i've always wanted to paint a car in chalkboard paint then do flames and stuff up the side in chalk and then clear coat it, LOL

i've seen plenty of hotrods done it matte black and they all look bad. a mate of mine has a hilux (4wd version) done in matte red and matte black and it looks pretty average. is painted well, but the matte look just makes it look... i think dull is probably the best way to put it.

i changed my coppers at 10,000kms and had no issues.