mad082

you could try just borrowing someones ecu to see if it works. or even just make sure that the loom is plugged into it properly

there is a hell of a lot of cars that fall into your rather small criteria there skyline silvia 180sx 300zx supra soarer and others

ok, cherie's brother's was a 79 or something like that.

just out of curiousity, were you using acrylic or 2 pack? and what sort of ratio did you mix the paint and the thinners and the clear and thinners? this may have a bit of an effect on the results. if you have a lot of 'orange peel' happening then the clear won't look as nice. also just remembered this from when i was first looking at doing some painting. it is well worth a read for anyone thinking about doing it. http://autofix.com.au/blog/archives/497#comment-75099

yes the rb20 hits peak torque lower, but that doesn't mean that the sr20 wouldn't be making similar torque at the same RPM. also this is most likely due to the rb running a ball bearing turbo and the sr a bush bearing turbo. but once you take into account the approx 100kg weight advantage the s13 has, that is why the s13 is nearly half a second quicker over the 1/4.

also what some people class as city driving is totally different to other peoples city driving. for example some people might drive through the city on a motorway at 80 or 100kmh for half of their trip and the rest might be on a 60kmh road where you go for ages without stopping at trafic lights or anything like that. that will give much better economy than someone who has to drive along a stretch of road where they have to stop lots. both driving in the city yet 1 person is going to get much better economy than the other. a prime example of this is my drive to work. i have to stop as much as 6 times in 2km in the worst case scenario, but even on the best case scenario i'm still accelerating 5 times from turning at intersections, 2 of which are up hill and close to home so the car is still cold and running richer. coming home from work i have to accellerate up a long hill not far from the carpark. plus it is such a short trip that even if i drive like a granny i'm never going to get as good fuel economy as other people who drive further to work than me and have better routes where they don't have to stop as much.

make the video. also video the car on the dyno so we can all see just how much less power it makes than a healthy DE makes. just because it runs like your old GTS doesn't mean much. maybe it was stuffed and that's why you don't notice the difference.

are you saying that he should or shouldn't keep the stock suspension for drags? hard to tell by your post. either way, if you want to get good times at the strip you want soft suspension (stock) so that when you launch the arse end sags and puts more weight over the rear tyres. but if you want to do well at the track then you want harder suspension. if you have coilovers and go to the drags your 60ft times will suck as you will just spin the tyres off the line. also someone said that the SAFC won't allow for AFM altering. well actually i'm pretty sure it will.

what model is it? brother-in-law used to have an old z28.

i looked at that and thought WOW. then i realised it was KM/L and not L/100km so in L/100kms you are using: 11L/100km 16L/100km 25/100km wow that's some errr... impressive fuel usage by the camaro. i'm guessing it's an old carby 350 then?

don't ever fill up a turbo car with 91. that's bad, mmmmkay. so you are doing the right thing by only using premium. even running it on 95 octane premium isn't the best idea. they are designed to run on high octane fuel from factory, and running it on lower can make them run poorly as also cause damage if done long term.

um, in NSW you don't actually own the plates, you just kind of rent them don't you? anywho, as for how much they are worth, that comes down to the buyer. some fully hektic bro might give you $1000. me persoanlly though, i'd give you maybe $10

as much fun as that would be, afraid not although in a car that light, i think the twist of the engine when you reved it meant that if you were showing off at the lights by reving the car, if you reved it too hard it would just flip the car onto its roof, LOL

i would doubt it as it isn't really any different to having a bigger gap (as far as heat goes)

BCPR6ES is the copper, heat range 6, 0.8mm plug and is the one you want. don't bother with iridiums. waste of money. cost you 4 times as much but don't last 4 times as long

how is the brake fluid level? it's not getting low at all? also what sort of driving are you doing when it comes on?

if it is plugged in, unplug it and plug it back in. also look for damaged wires or contacts, etc. also be worth testing it with a multimeter. turn the ignition on and put the car in revers and test the plug when it is unplugged as well as when it is plugged in.

yes but they did the R&D on making sure that a chassis will be able to handle the power. some backyarder who puts a blown 350 chev into a torana won't know/care about whether it is going to twist the chassis every time he launches it. and he might put it in and not do any upgrades to the brakes or anything like that.

oh right

nothing. a lot of people will be running 235's all round

if i was you i would be leaving the 235's on the rear and having the 225's on the front.

LOL, only thing i don't like about them is the dash (mainly the instrument cluster) in the 30 series

wreckers. to verify what the guy said though, find someone near you who has a consult cable. then they can plug it into the ecu and verify what the radiator guy said as the ecu uses a different water temp sensor to the dash. but hopefully for you it will just be the sensor (or the gauge in the dash) that is the problem

what sort of paint? 2 pack?

it could be that at some point in the past the turbo has had the front oil seal let go and then has dumped a heap of oil into the engine. some of this may have made it into the air reg