mad082

yes the r32 only has the rb20 which is a 2.0L whereas the later models get the 2.5L (although there were still some 2.0L versions). to be honest if you are just looking at getting a cheap first car, get a n15 SSS pulsar. it has the SR20 in it and the car is much newer than the r32 (by as much as about 10 years). insurance will be much cheaper as they were sold here by nissan, and parts are also much easier to get. performance wise it would probably out perform the r32 gts (that is the base model, the gts-t is the turbo version) because even though it puts out fractionally less power and torque (although peak torque is 800rpm lower in the rev range), because the car is much lighter it will still perform well. i have one and it will happily tow my 3.6m boat on the highway and i can even overtake cars easily while towing. in fact one day i was able to pass a landcruising towing a 4.5m boat up a hill in overtaking lanes when he started slowing down due to the steepness of the hill. since you were looking at an ae111 you obviously aren't too fussed about whether the car is fwd or rwd which opens up your options much more. you will find a tidy SSS pulsar for under $10,000 and there are plenty out there with reasonably low kms.

high 12's/low 13's for stock GTR as for the xr6t, if it is a decent driver then the manual will be faster than the auto. if it's a crap driver then the auto will be faster.

if you pop the bonnet and then look at the intake plenum from the drivers side of the car. at the back of it (near the firewall) you should see a phillips head screw. that is the idle screw. here's a pic i just found. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/po...nbutnothosesblu the screw is just above the lower blue circle

doesn't take very long to rebuild a 2 stroke. couple of hours maybe. probably a bit more on a scooter though cause you have to remove a lot more stuff to get to the engine. i had a scooter when i was about 15 (as well as 3 other full sized bikes at the time: yamaha yz125 and honda XL185 and yamaha TT350). the scooter was epically fun. it was just a 49 one (a honda nifty 50) and it was great fun just to ride around the yard or up and down our road on the farm (private sealed road between the houses and the dairy). handling was weird compared to a big bike though. had some great crashes on it to. 1 big 1 was when i was flying round the yard at full throttle and was probably doing about 35kh around a corner and it was a bit bumpy and i was leant over a fair way. the stand dug into the ground after i went over the biggest bump. next thing i know i'm a ball of arms and legs about 5m from the bike wondering what the shit just happened. worked it out when i walked over to the scooter and saw the big groove in the ground. as for those of you saying they are uncomfortable to ride for long times, HTFU. at times i would waste a whole afternoon doing laps around the yard on it. go to a point where there were even berms and ruts starting to appear on the corners from riding along the same track all the time so we had to start taking different lines around the corners. god i miss that thing. personally though, if it's for onroad use, just get an old postie bike. they too are epicly fun. i'm thinking of getting one when i can afford it.

i'd say that there is a good chance that your mates 298hp car doesn't have a stock ecu. it has probably been remapped. other than that, as people said, it is the protection built into the ecu that is causing you to hit the wall so to speak. whether you go a s1 or s2 ecu won't make a difference. either get yourself a PFC or a nistune if you want to go higher.

yeah should be up around the 700 to 750 mark when warm.

not that i am aware of. but what do you mean by bubbles? do you mean tiny little bubbles in the oil, or bigger bubbles? sometimes fresh oil will have tiny bubbles in it, but generally not. it is a hydraulic system and it works by pressurising the oil, as oil doesn't compress very well, but air does, so any air in the system will make it not function properly. also is there any noise coming from the pump when you turn the wheel or even just at idle? could be that your power steering pump is stuffed, or possibly even the steering rack is stuffed

yeah the MPH is an indication of power. when i put my magna down my times varied by nearly a second from my first run to my last (fastest), but my MPH only varied but about 0.5mph). my best MPH was a mid 93MPH on my 14.8 pass.

sif there are any girls that are nerdy enough to be fans of apple, LOL

0.4 of a second is actually a pretty big difference over a 1/4 mile. that will be a few car lengths.

+1 for dark rims. the white looks bad. really really really bad

the plugs on the back of the dash should both be the same so it should just be a case of unplug 1 dash and plug in the other. doubt there will be any need to touch any wiring as it should just be 1 or 2 big plugs (can't remember if it's 1 oe 2 plugs)

oh and i forgot to mention, your car was also a 5 speed automatic, not a manual like it is now.

you will still need to have it tuned for your car

i have to disagree with you there. softroaders are better than 4wds, for 2 reasons, they generally stop better (good if they have to stop in a hurry so they don't run up the back of you) and if you are parked next to either of them, the softroader is much easier to see around when pulling out of the park. nothing worse than having some big landcruiser parked next to you and having to basically be the whole way out of the park before you have any idea of whether there is a car coming or not. and most 4wds these days are owned by people who have no intention of taking them offroad. i've been driving along narrow roads and had a 4wd coming the other way and they have forced me to nearly put all 4 wheels off the road onto the shoulder because they didn't want to get their precious 4wd dirty. most 4wd owners these days would somehow manage to get themselves bogged driving on a concrete driveway with a thick layer of leaves on it they are so stupid.

i just looked at the pics you posted on that site of your car, and your vin number in fast. the car was originally a natro. i can tell this because it has 4 stud wheels and the ER33 vin number. the turbo cars all had ECR33 and if you put in ECR33 004493 you end up with a 2 door, gunmetal grey gts-t going off the model number you posted, your car wasn't turbo from factory, and the things posted above (4 stud wheels and ER33 vin number) tell me that as well. unfortunately i can't tell you what exact year it is, as it doesn't come up in fast (but judging by the front bar, headlights bonnet and a few other things it is either a 93 or 94). it isn't the first vin i have tried in fast that hasn't brought up any results. i've tried it on a few silvias and 180sxs in the past and had some show up but not others.

yeah, the only way to get a proper agreed value for your car is for them to send out an inspector to look at the car and value it taking into consideration all mods, quality of car, etc, which they pretty much never do.

you won't notice any performance difference between the plugs. well actually you will go slightly faster with the platinum plugs, but that is only because your wallet will be lighter

yeah it is worth a try

there is actually a cold start valve (not the AAC or IAC) as well (well at least on skylines there is) which can foul up, so might be worth looking at that too.

the method you have discribed won't fix any problems with the front wheels not lining up with the steering wheel. it may fix any issues with the rear wheels, but not the front as it is a mechanical link between the front wheels and the steering wheel. the steering column actually turns the steering rack and the front wheels cannot move without the steering wheel moving, and vice versa. also if your power steering lines have air in them or the pump is shot you will get vibrations through the steering wheel and it will feel jerky when you turn the wheel. i have driven a 180sx with a dying power steering pump and it had similar symptoms to what you are describing.

different cars will get different gains from extractors. my v6 magna it didn't make a scrap of difference because the cams were the restriction not the headers. however on my SSS pulsar it made a massive difference. i probably gained 10 or 15kw up top as the stock headers started to choke the engine at about 5500rpm, but now it revs out nicely to about 7000rpm before it starts to choke a bit.

you could try getting a razor blade or something under them to try and cut them off

i think i know the rubber strip you are after. it sits just under the bonney and seals along the top of the headlights, etc to stop water coming in. are you wanting new? if not, go to a jap wreckers.

i just read my r32 workshop manual and it leads me to believe that you shouldn't actually see any coolant through the air bleed screw hole. the way it says to do it is to drop the coolant, then fill it back up leaving this bolt undone. then once the radiator is full you put the bolt back in and put the cap on then run the car until it comes up to temp to open the thermostat. then allow the car to cool and remove the radiator cap to check the level of the coolant. if it is low then remove the bolt and top the coolant up then put the bolt back in, replace the cap and run it again up to temp, let it cool and then check the level again. this leads me to believe that if you are following this process you won't actualyl get any coolant coming out of this hole or any obvious signs of air coming out of it. i know that on my 33 gts-t if you removed the air bleed screw when the car was cool nothing would come out. if the car was running when you did it you would get a few bubbles come out and it would spit out a bit of coolant.