mad082

i just saw in the initial post where he said it was stock as a rock, so yeah, 95 should be fine without retarding the timing. i think the standard premium in japan is 96 ron. their standard unleaded is about 90 and their super premium is 100.

i never mentioned 2 stroke oil, it was just in another post i quoted. but it was originally posted by someone saying they put it in their RX7, which is a common practice due to the differeng nature of the rotary engine.

yes but you also don't lose your car the first time you lose your car. you lose it for a few days the first time, which is no great loss. as for your 'sponsors day', well you were obviously getting cheaper day than if the average person was to go and have a day there. and not everyone lives in brissy. for the sunny coast guys they are 2 hours from willowbank, and for me it's 3 hours. so that's a 6 hour round trip to compete in an event. we have a skidpan here but events are rarely held due to the cost, and the ones held by SAU (which i only hear about if i happen to go into autobarn and aaron tells me about them since i'm not a member of SAUQLD) are held on saturdays which i work and can't take off (i'm one of those luck people who if they don't turn up to work they don't get paid, and if they do turn up to work there's a good chance they still don't get paid so they need to work whenever possible in the hope of getting paid and would be happy to just earn as much money as someone on the dole. put simply, i'm a business owner enjoying the high life of owning a business in these glorious times of financial prosperity......)

what do you mean it goes out by 3.5 teeth on every mark? so do you mean that both on the crank and on the cam wheels the timing marks don't line up after you turn the crank 1 rotation? if so, how are you turning the crank? or do you mean that if you turn the crank 1 turn the cam wheels are 3.5 teeth out but the crank lines up with the timing mark?

i want your job then. also with street racing it's the fact that you have a small chance of getting caught, so if you spread the cost of losing your licence, etc over all the times that someone might do it to when they get caught, it may work out to be $5 a run. but certainly cheaper than a few hundred dollars a day. now i don't agree with street racing, just pointing out the obvious facts that regular legal racing is well out of the financial reach of a hell of a lot of people. think about it, some of these hoons would be out racing at least 2 nights a week. so say that instead they go and attend 2 legal meets a weekend. drags one night and a track day the next. there's an easy $300 a week gone. do that for a full year and you've spent a lazy $15600.

um, it kind of looks like the bottom of the gear knob might unscrew to reveal some allenkey screws. well at least it looks like it in the pic.

why? not everyone can afford to constantly put the more expensive stuff in their car, especially when the price difference can be up to about 20%, and you aren't going to get 20% better fuel economy.

tempted to sig that so tell us, how much does it cost to attend a track day, etc? i'm guessing it will be about what i expect but i will wait to see what you reply with. then add in the 3 hour drive each way that i would have to take to my nearest track and the cost of a full tank of fuel just for the trip, let alone fuel used on the day. then lets say i wanted to do that every weekend for a month. i'd say that would be the best part of $1000 (probably more). so for your average low income earner (such as someone working in retail) that would be 2 full weeks wage. or in the case of someone who is unemployed or only working partime, that is a full months wage. so that means that their entire weekly wage would go to paying for 1 day of "keeping it off the streets". now you can see why so many hoons don't even bother thinking about taking it to the track. not everyone can afford to do it. i know i can't. i couldn't even afford to do 1 track day a month.

just carry round some lube cause once the cops see that you have chopped up your front bar so much they will be on you like a fat kid on a candy bar

if you must run it on 95 octane fuel, retard the timing a bit. you will have less power, but it will make it safer on your engine

first of all, the figures you have mentioned there are flywheel kw, not kw at the wheels. you have a look on here and any other forum, or go to a dyno day and you won't see a single stock car putting out anywhere close to the amount of power that they are quotes as having. generally they will be about 20 to 30% less, although in the case of the awd cars it will be even less due to the extra power loss through the drivetrain. secondly, for the mx6, it depends on which model you get. if you have an australian delivered one you won't see any sub 7 second 0-100 times. they are listed as having an 8.7 0-100 as they only put out 121kw (at the crank, so about 90kw at the wheels) . also the 0-100 times vary depend on where you look. i have a motor magazine from the 90's that has it listed as a mid 7 second 0-100 and a mid 15 1/4 mile, but i also have a wheels magazine listing it as a low 8 0-100 and low 16 1/4. but if you are going to compare an imported mx-6, why not compare it to an imported pulsar. the sr16 in the vzr puts out 129kw, or the autech version puts out 130kw from the sr20. or if you happen to track down an N1 vzr which puts out 147kw.

should last at least 12 months before they go cloudy again, but will take a few years for them to get the real ugly yellow

block up both ends of the bov return pipe and you'll be right. breather hose isn't too much of an issue as very little oil should come out, and if lots does then you have a serious issue. just block up where it goes back into the intake pipe

my sister in law used to have a 3rd gen liberty. they aren't that fast. the missus SSS pulsar is faster (puts out 10kw less but weighs about 200kg less). as for getting 100kw at all 4, i would put the list of mods required to get that as just a touch more than mild. i have seen one on a dyno and it was putting out less than the missus pulsar which has full exhaust and air filter done, and remember that the pulsar puts out 10kw less from stock. from memory the liberty i saw on the dyno put out 100hp (74kw) and the pulsar put out 112hp (83kw). with full exhaust, intake mods you'll hit about 85awkw. will take an ecu and cams to get to 100kw, but then throw the same mods into a lot of other cars and you will see similar gains and similar performance. there's plenty of SSS pulsars with cams, nistune and exhaust putting out 100kw and running mid 14's. throw a sr20ve in there and you're looking at 150kw and cracking into the 13's. just not very P plate friendly (but more friendly than a turbo car).

still, if the battery is draining by that much in a week then it is time for a new battery. my 33 used to only get driven occasionally and it had all the same setup and it would still easily start after a week or 2. and i had an n14 pulsar with an alarm, stereo, clock, etc and it sat for a few weeks between being driven, and then when it was driven it was only probably only for about 10 mins to the shop and back.

dear spammer, please send me 10 of each mobile you have. i promise to pay once i have recieved the phones and had a chance to test them all out for about 6 months. please let me know if you accept this offer thanks, mad082

you answered your own statement there. you said "there is a trade". you have to remember that trades are practical based unlike things you go to uni for. you only go to tafe for about 4 weeks a year to learn the theory side of things, and even then it is still a lot of practical work. the rest of your experience comes from working on the cars and learning what is what and what can cause certain things to happen. a good analogy i once heard was: university teaches you that you should wash your hands after you go to the toilet. tafe teaches you how to aim so you don't piss on your hands in the first place. but as i said earlier, use the internet to find info on how things work. that will give you the basics on how the engine works, etc. as for having a better understanding when it comes to doing mods, it does help to a certain extent (such as the reason why you would do the mod), but then some mods require a much higher level of understanding (such as when it comes to understanding turbo sizing), and sometimes it is better to simply ask for advice than try and figure it out yourself.

i think a lot of people also do it wrong, or disconnect both clamps from the 1 battery at a time and after they take the first one off they hold them together in the 1 hand and they touch and arc out and possibly melt some wiring.

it sounds like the thermostat may be a little bit dodgy as it should go up to about halfway and not really move even if the temp gets hotter. to clean the afm, just get some electrical contact cleaner from dick smith or somewhere like that.

my mate put a 25 into his ceffy and had issues with the speedo. he wired the wires straight to the ecu and then the first time he went for a drive he was hitting the speed cut in ist gear. seemed to be that when it is wired through the dash it drops the voltage, so without it the ecu thought he was going much faster than he was. i think he ended up just cutting the wires to the ecu. he was using a rev speed meter for the speedo.

i tried plexus (came in a spray can with a blue lid). didn't do a thing.

if your battery is dying from not being driven for a week then your battery is stuffed. when my mother had an operation on her hand her car went 4 weeks without being driven and started fine. the longest i've had a car sit without being started (and with the battery still connected) was 2 months, and it still started fine. yeah they sound like the typical uneducated (mechanically uneducated) people that have heard from someone who had a mate, who had a mate who heard from a mate that a mate of theirs had their ecu blow when they jumpstarted the car. what they don't realise is that for the ECU to blow you'd have to have a faulty fuse somewhere along the line. i've jumpstarted fuel injected cars dozens of times and never had an issue. i use the following method: hook up the earth on the running car's battery hook up the earth on the flat battery hook up the + on the running car hook up the + on the flat battery and then when i'm done i take it off in the reverse order.

mate look at the date of the topic. it is from july 2009.

actually they were spawned from rally, and not from group A, but even rally is a bad example as you don't see any awd ford focus for sale, only fwd. look i am all for the step foward to DOHC engines, etc, but to say that it will see more devolpment in road cars is stupid. look at the premier racing category, F1. do you see many small capacity v8 and v10 engines in production these days? nope, yet f1 and indy cars have been running them for a long time now. and with more and more emissions restrictions coming out, that makes it even less likely for there to be engine advances coming from race cars.

so much of the engine isn't specific to an RB engine. if you want to know how stuff works, etc then 99% of that will be generic across all engines, just some of the specifics will vary. what sort of things are you wanting to know? for basics on things like how the engine works, etc, then go to howstuffworks.com and search it. it will be pretty good as it will usually have some sort of animation to help show how it works. the general principles are the same across all engines, just the minor details, such as locations of sensors, etc will be different. if you are wanting to know more specific stuff such as what some of the plugs, etc do then just try and get your hands on a workshop manual and have a look through it.