mad082

if you can run 98 then do it. even when stock it is best to run as high octane as possible. so don't just run 95 for the sake of saving a few cents if you can afford to run 98

may be that your clutch fan is stuffed, or that you have air in the system. it may also be worth getting a hold of a consult cable to see if it isn't just the gauge playing up

a thought i just had was that if you aren't in a rush to do it, start by pulling the engine down and putting it back together with the stock parts. the reason i say this is that then you have a bit more of an idea of how to put it back together and you don't run as much risk of damaging the new parts. even if you don't put the whole engine together. just like after you pull the pistons out or something like that, try dummy fitting them back in. and do it before you send all the stuff off to get inspected and cleaned so that if something does happen to get damaged they can sort it out for you. that way when it comes to putting it back in properly you aren't learning on new parts which if it turns bad could end up costing you more money. and remember, use a genuine nissan headgasket and only a genuine nissan headgasket (unless you go a much more expensive one)

half of the aftermarket front bars out there will just about give you 100mm height on stock suspension.

this is how i did it on my old commodore that i am painting. will make you laugh tools required: 1 large hammer 1 large chisel method used: sit the chisel above the badge with the tip against the panel. take said large hammer and hit the chisel firmly. watch as badge proceeds to fly across the yard.

yuck. no offence, but personally i think white and cream interiors look terrible (only my opinion) and they don't age well (tend to go yellow as they age), as well as getting dirty very quickly.

oh and if you are taking them back to bare metal make sure you use an etch primer.

yes it should work ok. i would probably sand the rims with some 600 before you paint them though. 200 is pretty coarse and may still show up the sanding marks once painted.

how big of a budget do you have to do it with? if you are tight on money then i wouldn't build a motor for your skyline. i'd do something like an old 202 or a datsun motor. parts for them will be dirt cheap and also getting a workshop manual will be much easier. sure they won't have all the extra technology of injectors and all that sort of thing, but the general mechanics are the same, and if you happen to stuff something up there's no great loss and you haven't lost a heap of money. for a newbie the lack of technology would be a good thing

don't forget to reinforce the manifold and make sure the floor on the passengers side is bolted in properly. LOL seriously though, while NOS is a good bang for buck mod, it isn't that great for long use. it isn't like other mods where the power will be there all the time and is easily accessed by your right foot. NOS is a case of being there when you press the button, as long as the last time you pressed the button didn't use up the last of what was in the tank.

take a pic of the turbo and the vaccum hose running to the turbo so we can see what it has and possibly give you a better idea on how to lower the boost. as i said, it could be that you need to either adjust the wastegate actuator (if it is adjustable) and buy a whole new wastegate actuator rated at a lower pressure to lower the boost.. as for the spluttering sound, it sounds like it has the typical missfire caused by either old spark plugs or failing coil packs. hooking it up to a computer won't tell you much about anything going wrong in this regaurd though. it would on a r34, but not on a r33

but if you stall them up on the brake they still get off the line pretty well. my father in law has an au and it gets off the line pretty well.

the supplies you would need would be: bog (aka body filler) sand paper making tape and old newspapers wax and grease remover or prepsol (same shit) primer - if the paint requires it (and if you are painting the centre caps, you should also use plastic primer) paint clear

if it is a general cloudyness and discolouration then yes it is caused by UV. if it is just foggy and you can actually see water droplets inside then you have a leak and it is caused by moisture. post up a picture of your light so i can have a look.

so in other words, we might see it in 2011

also depends on the ECU. if it is the stock ecu then it can be fine to even drive hard (as long as the knock sensors are working properly) as the ecu will knock the timing right back if it detects detonation

firstly, i don't want to sound mean, but saying you are a girl is no excuse. without knowing mods we can't help you properly. simple as that. no sexism there (in fact it's equal rights), just stating the fact. secondly, what do you mean by the boost is spiking at 5000rpm? do you mean the boost is dropping after 5000rpm? or when you get to 5000rpm the boost is increasing (which is what is usually meant by boost spiking)? without a better explaination of what is going on, and what mods the car has we can't help you. and again i don't want to sound mean, but it really sounds like you bought a car you know nothing about, which means there is a good chance you are going to run into troubles down the track and leave yourself open to getting ripped off (which you may already have been). come back to us with a proper list of mods and a better description of what is going on. but to answer the only question you have really asked (and which i can't even answer correctly based on the lack of info you have provided), if there is no boost controller and it is running 15psi then it will be set by the wastegate. if the wastegate actuator is adjustable then altering it will lower the boost. if the wastegate isn't adjustable then adding a boost controller (boost tee/tap) won't let you lower the boost, only raise it.

if you want to buy tools to work on a car, don't go to bunnings. go to an auto parts store such as repco.

i'm guessing that there was something wrong with the AU (like probably done 300,000kms and getting a bit tired). i've driven quite a few of the aussie tanks and i can tell you than an AU will beat a VN or an EF. it won't be by much, but they are faster, and they sure as hell aren't a second slower.

i have had steering wheel vibration issues in cars before but i don't think they will apply here because of the fact that the cars were fwd, but may still be something to consider. the first sign is if the vibration gets worse when accelerating. if so, check the engine mounts. my last magna used to get a major steering vibration happening when accelerating (even just pushing the accelerator down about 20% more than when cruising) at above 90kmh. even just trying to stay at a constant speed an a bit of a hill would do it. this was caused by a shagged engine mount.

no i can't afford $30 a year right now. i won't go into reasons why right now, but i'll put it this way, if you are currently at work you have earnt more while reading this than i have earnt so far this year. as for the whole thing about the sponsors day, it sounded like something that the race teams have where they have their corperate sponsors come to test days where they take them for laps around in the race cars or something like that.

i think i get what you are saying and i think i understand what the OP may have been doing wrong. if he is simply looking at a sticker on the belt and is turning the cranks so that the belt is back to where it was then looking at all 3 timing marks and seeing that they are out then thinking that the timing is out by 3.5 teeth. that made me LOL other than that, the timing marks on the cam pulleys will ge out after 1 turn of the crank by 180 degrees but after the second turn of the crank they should line up as the crank to cam ratio is 2:1 due to the engine being a 4 stroke and the valves only open on every second rotation of the crank. so as long as every second rotation of the cranks the timing marks all line up then the timing is fine. ignore any marks on the belt.

pretty sure he is talking about yellow jackets

exhaust, suspension, ecu. pretty much sums it up for an NA. you'll only get limited performance gains without spending big bucks or going turbo

it isn't a wheel bearing issue? could possibly be the power steering pump. i've driven a 180sx with a shagged pump and it gave a fair bit of vibration back through the wheel, however it wasn't that noticable when going straight.