mad082

when you say everything, do you mean the clock in the dash as well? if so then as bundybear said, check the fuse panel on the right hand side of the steering wheel down near where the lever is to pop the bonnet. just pull them out 1 at a time and see if they are any blown. also might be worth pulling out your stereo and just unplugging it then turning the car on and off to see if the clock is still losing it's memory. if it is only the cd player losing it's memory then check the wiring

i used to work at toyworld so would buy games about 10 mins after they arrived at the shop. i was storeman, so as soon as the stock arrived i would open the box to see if there was anything interesting in it. if there was i would take the box straight to the boss to get it entered into the computer so i could buy the game. if there wasn't i'd finish what i was doing then take the box to the boss. sometimes they would only get there the day before the release. other times 2 days before, or in the case of the ps2, about lunchtime on the day of the release. i remember that because we had 1 person waiting out the front of the shop when i got there at 8:30 and he had to come back later on. and even then he only layby'd it.

your licence will always expire on the same day no matter when you renew it (so you can renew it a week before it expires or the day before but it will still expire on the same day. the same as car rego) or what licence you have. basically whether your opens start in a week, or in 2 years time, you were still driving without displaying the P plates and got done. it's no different to a bouncer not letting you into a nightclub a week before your 18th birthday. until you turn 18 you can't get in. personally i wouldn't bother fighting it in court as it isn't something that is open to interpretation like other things might be. in this case the law clearly states that you are still on your p's and you weren't displaying the plates you required.

i'm assuming that you saw this before you took the cap off, etc? if you had been leaking fuel out of there then there should've been some sign of it down the side of the car. if you are worried about it though, just get a new fuel cap. and what sort of economy are you calling average? and please don't simply say "i got 300kms to a tank" because "a tank" isn't a unit of measure unless you fill it to the top then drive it till it runs out of fuel. how many kms are you doing for how many litres you put in? also what do you class as sedately? flooring it but only reving it to 3500rpm will still use a fair bit of fuel. how far you push the accelerator down plays a bigger part in fuel economy than what revs you change at. and if you regularly go into positive boost (even at low rpm) then that will increase fuel usage as well. i was getting about 17L/100kms but i was a bit of a leadfoot and i did a lot of short trips and it was pure city driving, so nothing above 60km/h and never for more than about 1km without having to slow down/stop at an intersection. other things that can contribute to poor fuel economy is a dodgy o2 sensor or dodgy thermostat. you can tell if the thermostat is dodgy by how long the car takes to come up to operating temp. it should take about 5 mins of driving. if you sit the car and let it idle for ages in the morning before driving it will take longer than 5 mins and also waste a heap of fuel. you can test the o2 sensor with a multimeter

sr20 or ca18. the fj20 is basically what the sr20 was based off and is a bit of a rattley old engine. CA18 aren't a bad engine (rather under rated by a lot of people) and the sr20 is a good engine.

different car i know, but my SRS light comes on in my pulsar everytime i start the car. can't remember if it did in my 33 or not, been too long since i owned it

how is it different? i think there is 2 different part numbers listed for the skylines (at least i think there was when i got mine, but that was non-genuine) and the only main difference seems to be that 1 has a 90 degree bend on 1 of the pipes, while the other has 2 straight pipes.

sounds like the car may have been too far back on the trailer and didn't have enough weight over the drawbar. i have been driving a car with a trailer loaded up by someone else and had it start getting taily happy. pulled over, moved all the weight foward and it drove so much better. have seen a vw beetle on a car trailer cause the same thing to happen as they had it loaded on foward and the beetles being rear engined caused the tow car to get tail happy down a hill and end up off the side of the road in a ditch

see for me it's the other way round. the 432 doesn't do much for me. the exterior is so so (looks much better with a gtr front bar and grill on it), but the interior doesn't do anything for me. especially the dash surround. just reminds me too much of a vn commodore.

this is going back a bit now, but when i got my opens and went into the department of transport and got my licence renewed, etc, on the new licence it said that my p's were still valid until the exact date that was 3 years after i got them and then my opens started. so even though i had gone in and paid it and got my opens licence 3 weeks before it was due, i was still on my p's for the last 3 weeks to make it up to having had them for 3 years. i'm guessing that the same thing will apply for you. in the police system it will show you as being on your p's, and therefor the police office is in the right and you are in the wrong. i'm sure that if you read the fineprint on the form you were sent out it will say all this.

s1 and s2 r33 will make the same power as the nylon compressor wheel has pretty much no bearing on max power only spool up time. also from my experience the spool up time difference between the 2 is extremely minimal and would more come down to the individual tune of the car. an engine with higher compression or more advanced timing will make the car spool up quicker and pull harder.

here is the thread where i say how to lube up the pivot bolt. if you scroll down there will be a pic i took as well. it was longer ago than what i thought (2006) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=2212923 but it will only help if the noise isn't coming from inside the car. often the pivots of the clutch pedal get dry and noisey and sometimes even the mounting brackets snap

i put a turbo (0.64 3076) onto a mates 33 and did a slight tune on his ecu and then we put it on the dyno. had the boost set at 16psi. it would ramp up to 16pis nicely then very quickly (as the revs got higher) drop down to 12psi and only made about 210kw. we tried a few things with boost controllers, etc, even tried running open boost (unlimited boost) and it still did the same. so we pulled the exhaust off the back of the cat. turns out the rear section of the cat had broken off and hard turned sideways and was blocking about 90% of the hole. we cleared that out and ran it again and it held 16psi nicely and made 251kw with a modest tune and coil packs breaking down.

pulling them off is going to give the best result as you can properly clean them as well as give them a good paint coverage so you aren't simply painting the top half and possibly having hard to get to, yet visible areas that aren't painted. also it will avoid any overspray making the engine bay look crappy

a week isn't exactly a long time. i had a car sitting for 8 months and the battery still had enough charge to turn it over (but not start it). it could be caused by 1 of 3 things. you alternator isn't working properly (not charging the battery fully). there is something in the car that isn't functioning correctly and it is draining the power off the battery when the car is turned off, or most likely, the battery is dead. if the battery is a few years old then i would put it down to it being the likely cause, especially as the nights are starting to get cooler. winter is always the time when weak batteries start to die. they can be fine 1 day, then the next day won't even have enough charge to turn the car over. then you can jump start the car and drive to work, leave the car all day, go back to it in the afternoon and have it start straight away, but the next morning it will be dead again. so if the battery is 3 or 4 years old, i'd invest in a new battery before bothering to look at other things as it is the most likely cause.

if it doesn't sound like it is coming from inside the car then it could be the pivot bolt in the gearbox that is sqeaking. a few years back i posted up a pic showing how to lube it. i will see if i can find it

where are you located? i think there is someone in gympie doing this but into a vs ute (if i remember correctly). i think he has been speaking to my mate who is a mechanic about doing the wiring. and love the 33 front bar on the commodore. boy will that piss off some nissan fansboys.

i wouldn't really put the r34 as being ahead of it's time since it was just updated 10 year old technology. and can't really say it has aged well as it is only 12 years old. and while i think the r32 gtr can be there for being ahead of it's time, to me it is starting to show it's age and lose its appeal. also to add to the list, i would have to say the delorean, shleby cobra, ford GT40 and the model T ford if you allow modifications then throw in a heap of old fords and chevs hotrods from the 20's and 30's. they are probably holding their looks better than what 90% of the current stuff is

i'd say more of a success rate of not crashing of about 15%.... but then i rate microsoft products only a fraction higher than apple products.......

this can be done in a manual by stalling the car up on the handbrake um, i'm going to go with, SSS pulsar, manual v6 commodore (or straight 6 manual falcon) or maybe even a VRX lancer. now i know that a lot of people will post up saying how they can flog commodores, but most of them would be comparing a manual skyline to an auto commodore, which isn't really a fair fight.

with all the torque that the falcons have it is hard to get them off the line cleanly as it is very easy to fry the tyres in the manual. the automatics are much easier to get off the line cleanly. i can tell you that it is easier to get an auto xr6t off the line than it is to get a manual non turbo older model falcon with much less power. but if you do nail it in the manual it will be fast. also in any auto it is much easier to be consistent

i was meaning that there wasn't something that has caused them to all crash at once. they just individually crash all the time

and because we all know that every single ford owner is on the forum, and that everything that is posted on a forum is 100% true and correct..... just to clarify, i'm not saying that when you really start piling on the mods that the manual will be quicker over the 1/4 mile because i know it won't, but for a stock or mildly stock the manual will be just as quick or quicker. but yes, we have gotten off topic

i'd hate to see your reaction to the problems that the crashbox, i mean xbox has. nothing global, but they crash like a drunk granny in a dodge'em car

of course getting the auto into the 11's will be easier, but that is a far cry from a stock car. maybe all the manual drivers over on the xr forums think that you have to double clutch them or something. and if you compare the 6 speed auto to the 4 speed you will find the 4 speed much slower due to less favourable gear ratios.