mad082

looks heaps more better? you good speak english well

you like digging up old threads don't you

just go to autobarn and buy yourself a timing light for about $30. they are pretty simple to use. to make life a bit easier also buy a cheap ignition cable (the ones that go from the distributor to the spark plug on older cars. this just makes hooking the timing light onto the car a bit easier. otherwise just take it to your local mechanic. they will be able to do it as the principle is same whether the car is an import or not.

mounting the engine isn't that hard as with the older cars you could just use a a vl crossmember, etc. wiring on the other hand.... also with a vu ute you may have issues with legality of putting in the rb25 as i'm not sure how it goes as far as putting an older motor into a newer car. i'm pretty sure that the motor has to meet all emissions standards of when the car was made. so it's easy to put a new motor into an old car, but not the other way round.

you can.... but chroming alloy doesn't work very well and it will start to flake after a while. doesn't matter if the spinning bit on the back of the cas moves. and even if you don't mark it, if you have a timing light you can set the timing to 15 degrees with the timing light rather easily anyway

with the stock ecu you can't actually tune it, so you don't need to do anything when you upgrade things, however somethings you upgrade require an aftermarket ecu to run them. a good example of this is if you put in bigger injectors. the stock ecu is setup to think that the injectors are 370cc, so if you go and put in bigger ones it will still think it has 370cc ones in there and be dumping in way too much fuel and you'll be luck if the car will even start. things like a bigger turbo will require an aftermarket ecu and for it to be tuned if you want to run bigger boost, however they can be run on the stock ecu at very low boost as they will still be in the paramaters of the tune on the stock ecu. you just wouldn't really make any more power than on the stock ecu.

you need a timing light to set it properly (set at 15 degrees BTDC or 16 or 17 if you run the car on 98 octane and want a bit more power), and it will have little to do with any popping or backfiring, etc.

when i did the pulsar i did the catback and didn't notice much. then a month or so later did the extractors and it made a massive difference. not much down low but above 5000rpm was totally different. pulled hard all the way to 7500 instead of starting to choke at 5500rpm. all up the system cost me about $650. left the stock cat cause it was 2.5". then another guy in town with a SSS who still had the stock headers took ot for a drive to see if it was worthwhile getting some and was very impressed with the difference it made. then when i got the magna i did the catback first. made a noticable difference. then did the extractors and it didn't really make any difference. so when i got my second magna i didn't bother putting extractors on there. and from reading on the magna forums most people agree. they say that there is no point putting on extractors unless you have put in bigger cams. and when you look at the times people have run there is little difference between those with extractors and those without, yet if you look at the pulsars there is a bit of a difference.

look at it this way, if you go to thailand you will see plenty of people who look like women but that doesn't mean they are......

cost me $450 for my extractors for the pulsar, and about the same for the magna

it actually looks a little bit photoshopped, but that could just be the way it looks in the pic

if it was at a point where drift, drag and track meets were overflowing with entrants and the cops weren't constantly busting people for doing it on the streets i think you would find the government much more willing to provide more services to voters, but when there are so many people doing it on the street who have never been to a proper meet simply because they are too lazy, etc, i think you will find it hard to get money out of the goverment. i think the government is viewing it is that there are so many people doing it illegally and only a handful of people utilising the proper locations, why should they poor in more money for such a minority. i also think that people should stop looking at the government for funding of this and start looking at big business. look at it this way, if you get a bunch of young enthusiests going to council/goverment asking for land to develope a racing area, they will just think you are hoons. however if you can get some big businesses to back it and either partially or fully fund it then you are going to have a much better chance of getting government approval, as well as being taken more seriously by the media and getting a positive spin put on it, rather than them putting negative spin on it.

the 26 uses a different coil, not so much a better one. the 26 out of a 32 uses the same coil as was used on the rb20 and series 1 r33 rb25. the main difference being that the earlier cars had an external ignitor and all the newer ones have the ignitor built into the coils

do tell......

you also have to remember that all stock power outputs are measured at the flywheel, so you will never have a stock car make on a dyno what the power is quoted to be. also you were running 12psi through the stock dump/front pipe and cat, which is an area of substantial restriction so you wouldn't be making as much power as a 33 with a turbo back exhaust, and probably not much more power than if you dropped the boost back down to 10psi. also the stock side mount cooler suffers from heat soak pretty quickly. even though it is bigger than a 33 one it is still small. a basic rule you can use is, the power in kw at the flywheel (so power quoted by the manufacturer) will equal the power in HP at the wheels. so if a car has 200kw at the flywheel, it will have around 200hp at the wheels, or about 150kw at the wheels. it isn't exact but it is pretty close to.

he is running a PFC, so ecu isn't an issue looks like you have some sort of issue going on there judging by the dyno graph (depending on a few things). are you running a boost controller or is the 10psi just what it is climbing to on it's own? to be honest, i would put it down to being one of a few possible things. 1: tired engine 2: crap tune 3: the foward facing plenum (wouldn't be the whole cause, but certainly won't be helping the situation and may be part of the cause of the tired engine as you will get uneven airflow which can result in major leaning out in cylinders 5 and 6 and running rich in 1 and 2. the plenums are designed to have air come in from the side so having it come in from the front is going to give drastically different flow characteristics than what it was designed to have)

exhaust, intercooler (doesn't really gain power, but makes it better when running higher boost), boost controller (cheap turbotech one will do the job nicely). that will gain you a fair bit of power and not cost you too much. then if you really feel like throwing around some money, bigger turbo, fuel pump, injectors and new ecu

saw a review of it last night on good game. they said it was ok but not great, but then other times i have seen their reviews of crap games saying they are good and vice versa. seems to be ok though. since GT5 won't be out until after the next ice age i might go buy a ps3 and ff13 as this is the first game i have actually wanted for the ps3 that has actually been released (gt5 is the only other game i want)

have you weighed up the cost of getting something that requires a respray and maybe a touch of bog and getting it fixed with trying to find one that is in perfect condition? it doesn't cost that much to get a bonnet and front bar painted

i gained about 10kw from extractors alone on my SSS pulsar, yet on my v6 magna the full exhaust (extractors and cat back) only gained me 7kw. as people have said, you can't compare the effect that extractors will have between 2 different engines

0.8 of a second 0-100 is a fairly long time, and if you put the cars side by side you would see just how big of a difference it is

on the highway, driving mostly sensibly i only got around 10 or 11L/100kms. doing short trips will make your fuel economy worse as the car runs more rich when it's cold, and driving short trips doesn't allow the car to get up to temp and into the leaner running, so you can drive like a granny and still not get as good economy as someone who drives twice as far.

in dead stock form the 350z will win. mildly modified the 180sx may just win, but if you turbo the 350z it will shit all over a 180sx, but it will also cost a buttload more to buy.

dude he's from gympie. if you were from gympie, like i am, you'd know that going as far as to put a cable tie on is considered a lot of effort, and it is extremely secure, lol

ok, the fuel pump just wears out over time and there isn't anything in particular you can do to prevent it. find out what sort of pump he replaced it with as this may be something that you need to look into when upgrading further. if he went with something like a bosch 040 then you will be fine, but if he only went with a stock unit then if you start chasing more power it might be worth upgrading to a better unit (such as the bosch i listed). you listed your mods, but didn't mention the exhaust. does it have a bigger exhaust, or just the stock system? i'm guessing by your power figure that it would probably have a 3" exhaust as you would struggle to make that power with the stock one. but that power level is about right for that boost level and those mods. as for modifying it, firstly, if any of the exhaust is still stock, such as the dump pipe, then i'd start by upgrading that. after that you are pretty close to the limit of what both the stock ecu and stock turbo will handle. the turbo will go a bit higher, but the life expectancy of it dramatically shortens. there are many options when it comes to upgrading both ecu and turbo, but depending on how far you want to take it you may be going into the area where other mods are needed such as injectors and AFM as they don't go that far beyond the stock ecu and turbo. many people will tell you to go with a pfc as a replacement ecu, but personally i would go with a z32 ecu and a nistune daughterboard. this will set you back about half of what a pfc will and do pretty much the same thing.