mad082

can't believe i'm going to say this, but i agree with bozo. sell your car and get a turbo one, then sink a few thousand into it. even if you have to travel an hour or 2 to find one (i had to go 2.5 hours to get my 33, and that isn't that far, cause there are only about 10 turbo skylines in the town i live in) the other option would be to just buy a halfcut with a turbo engine in it, but the whole car will be a better option as you will be getting a few extra things such as better brakes and LSD, and saving yourself a buttload of stuffing around. you should pretty much be able to sell your car for around the same as what you could pick up a turbo one for, then throw about 5k at it (turbo, ecu, injectors, afm and tune) and you will probably be making more power than if you put 10k into you current car, and be 5k better off.

they should be a generic stud, so simply take it to a few exhaust places, don't bother telling them what sort of car its from (as some people are a mix of stupid or lazy or both), and just say "do you have 1 of these?" my local autobarn stocks a few of those sorts of things. they have spaces and gaskets for turbo's, etc and i'm pretty sure they have the studs as well. but i don't think you really want to drive 2 hours to gympie on the off chance they might have it, LOL

pretty sure it won't beep at you. mine never has in any car i've owned. as for it coming on then going off, were you going up a hill at the time? in my pulsar at anything below about 1/4 of a tank the light will come on when going up a steep hill

yes that is good economy. next time please search as this has been covered hundreds of times

more than likely a sign the car has been in a front end collision. or he really wanted a s2 but didn't want to pay for one. as for changing front bars, if you are going aftermarket then it shouldn't make much difference as it shouldn't be affected by the lights or bonnet, etc. in fact you could probably even put a stock s1 front bar back on and have it all fit up.

the vl gear ratios are the same as the non turbo rb25 box, which are only a fraction shorter than the turbo box ratios. the VL had a much taller diff than the skylines though (about 3.45:1 vs 4.11:1 in the turbo 33 if my memory serves me right). strength wise though the rb25 turbo box is a much better/stronger gearbox, so if you are looking to put a manual in your car (noticed that you say your car is auto in your car info), then i would just go the rb25 turbo box. will set you back more money but they are a better box, and if you are pushing a bit more power than stock then you will pretty much need it if you plan on doing any sort of track work.

1: it was optional (but rare) but a lot of people have made it light up themselves. there is a thread on here about it. search light up garnish or something like that. 2: yes. as for getting the car to beep when the car is locked/unlocked that has more to do with the kit fitted. if it is just a remote locking kit or immobiliser kit then it generally won't beep when locked/unlocked, but if you get an alarm fitted then they generally beep. 3: there isn't so much a max size rim you can have (although this varies from state to state), but there is a bit of a quideline of "going over a certain size rim is just stupid and makes you look like an idiot". this varies from person to person. for me 18" is the biggest i would go, but i would recommend just going to 17's. still look good, and if you have potholes around your area then there is less chance of damaging a wheel as well as they will give you a slightly smoother ride than the bigger wheels.

when i did it the slots in the craddle were about 5mm from being all the way down, but they were still on a fair way so we just left it like that.was more than enough to hold it there

what about "trying to get home before the hail storm hits and i live 10km out of town"? no? didn't work on the cop either, although it was true. ended up starting to hail as i drove up our road (about 500m from home)

you could always get a Y piece added into your exhaust then make up a butterfly system

was in dick smith looking at the game on the weekend and telling the missus i want it. she asked if i knew whether it was any good and i told her about this thread and how it only takes about 30 hours for the good stuff to really start happening. the look she gave me could've solved global warming. LOL

+1 for ecutalk cable. i have a USB one which i bought from a certain member on the pulsar forums who is also on this forum (didn't know they were on this forum until after i had bought it, but makes no difference). you know who you are, LOL

but they look pretty........

go an oval muffler. something like a lukey performance flow. just got a 2.5" one put on the pulsar and it sounds good as well as being quiet. i got a catback system made up at my local exhaust place (excluding the centre muffler where we used the old one) for $170 including the muffler. i was originally just going to get the rear muffler replaced and they were going to charge me $120 including fitting.

that doesn't mean that your car is better though. it just means you are taking it much more seriously than the other person, or you know more about getting a good launch that the other person.

as long as you have the clutch fan that is all that matters. the thermo fan on the front of the engine was an over temp fan, designed to come on when the engine temp got too hot. most cars that are missing them have been in front end crashed where the fan was damaged and not replaced (well that is my theory as it is why my car was missing it when i got it).

it's not uncommon to have the rocker cover get damaged when a rocker arm breaks. had it happen to a mates sr20 out of a s13. hole in the rocker cover the size of a 50 cent piece, LOL

i agree. some real world experience: a wek or 2 ago i got a new exhasut for our SSS pulsar. previously it was 2" catback with extractors. the rear muffler was starting to let go around the outlet. the muffler was a 2" lukey oval muffler, and the piping was 2" press bent (and pretty dodgy and restrictive in some areas) and it had a 15" resonator/hotdog after the cat. what i got made up was 2.25" from the resonator back, and the rear muffler was 2.5" (lukey performance flow i think it was called). the muffler body was much larger than the old 2" one i had. i was expecting that with the bigger piping and 2.5" muffler that it was going to be louder that the 2" system. it wasn't. started the car and could immediately tell it was quieter, and not just because the old muffer was warn out. this was quieter than when i first got it done. then i took it for a drive. felt much better to drive, revved more freely and was also quieter. then on a trip down the coast on friday again i noticed how much quieter it was at 110kmh. you could easily have a conversation where as previously it had had a bit of a drone.

correct. qld doesn't have double demerit points over holiday periods like NSW and WA do (they are the only ones who do). we only have them for repeat offences in a 12 month period, however if people think it is double points & fines and it slows them down, then that is a good thing. also if you are on your P's, you just lost all your points and you will be walking for the next 3 months, unless you go on a 1 point good behavior licence for a year.

i think one of the v8 supercar games has it on there. not sure which one, and doubt it will be on the xbox 360. might be able to find it for the computer though. personally, i would just troll youtube for video clips. there are plenty of them. here's an ok 1 i found.

now i've never driven a GTR, but in my r33 gts-t the fuel light never came on when turning the ignition on. in fact no car i have ever driven has had it come on when you turn the ignition on.

you can think what you want. you obviously don't want to take good advice and would rather sit around sucking your mumma's tit until someone hands you the answer on a silver platter, in which case unless they can give you a garantee from the nissan engineers who designed the RB engine you won't believe them either. if you are so worried about spark plugs, why don't you just go buy some from nissan. you may as well leave the forum as pretty much all the advice on here isn't going to meet your astronomical expectations, since it is all tried and true methods, and things that have been proven to work still but won't satisfy your questions. but hey, you're right. what would i know? i've only but the BCPR6ES plugs into a few different RB engines and never had problems with coil packs, and neither would any of the hundreds, or even thousands of other people running these plugs, as well as the large number of tuners who would also be using these plugs in cars they have worked on. spark plugs are extremely simple items and work off a very simple principle. as long as the heat range is correct (or close enough), the thread is the right size and they are tall enough to contact the coil, then it doesn't even matter what material they are made out of. infact you would run 3 copper plugs, 2 iridiums and a plantium all in 1 engine, and you could have all 3 different temp ranges and they will still all work fine. it would be no different to having the tyres on the front of your car different to the ones on the back.

cas in general haven't changed much in the last 10 years. if you go back to the late 80's and early 90's the cars changed a massive amount. nearly everything could be drawn with a ruler in the 80's, then in the late 80's and early 90's things went round. a few prime examples of this are the r31 to the r32, the XF falcon to the EA, the 1st gen magna to the second gen magna, the n13 pulsar to the n14, etc. then there was generally only minor changes in most brands until about 2000 when most brands then did another redesign. examples of this are the VS to VT commodore (while not as big as some others, it was still a pretty substantial change to body shape), the r34 to V35 skyline, the EL to AU falcon, toyota starlet to the echo, etc.

maybe you should just look at getting a different muffler. something that is still going to give both good flow and noise reduction, but give a note. something like a nice big oval muffler. it will take out the noise but still give a good note.

99% of missfire issues is caused by old and worn coils and not the spark plugs, and you will find that if you talk to anyone who has fitted new coils that their car runs brilliantly. the people who are changing their plugs and then having the coils shit themselves 5 mins later, the coils letting go weren't because of changing the plugs. they changed the plugs because the coils were starting to shit themselves and they were just hoping they might be able to bandaid the problem with new plugs. but then after a little while the coilpacks get worse and they are forced to replace them. or they way that they have handled the coils has made the problem worse, in the same way that picking up a glass with a crack in it may make it fall apart. as for the year model not specifying it being a NEO, considering that ALL of the RB motors in that age were NEO motors, it's pretty safe to assume that they have taken that into consideration as there weren't any massive changed between the NEO engines and the non neo engines. saying that just because the plugs are used commonly doesn't mean that they are right is pretty stupid. half of the code of the part numbers of spark plugs refers to the physical properties of the plug, such as the thread size. so lets take the codes for both the copper plug and the iridium and look at them. first, the copper. BCPR6ES. the BC means that the threaded section has a diameter of 14mm. this means that any copper plug starting with A, C, D, E or DC won't fit as the thread will be a different diameter so it either won't screw in or will just slide in and out. then there is the E after the 6. this means that the threaded section is 19mm long. so this determines how far down into the cylinder the plug goes. too short and you won't get very good combustion. too long and you may damage the pulg. using this info you can see that you can use either a BC plug or a BK plug as the lower dimensions are the same. all that varies is the top half as the BC plug is a taller plug so makes better contact with the coil. now lets look at the iridium plug. BKR6EIX. again the BK tells us that it is a 14mm plug. the E tells us that the thread is 19mm long. the remaining letters and numbers tell us the heat range (in the case of both plugs, they are heat range 6), the R says it is a resistor type plug (which they both are). resistor type plugs have a resistor built in to reduce electromagnetic interference which can effect sounds systems, phones and even the ECU signals. the IX tells us it's an iridium plug. in the case of the copper plug the S says it is a standard plug. and the P in the copper plug refers to the shape of the insulator. so using that info you can work out that the BCPR6ES copper plug, the BKR6EIX iridium plug and the other common copper plug BKR6ES are all the same dimensions where it counts, just that the BCPR6ES plug sits out of the top of the head a bit more, which isn't a bad thing. so i think it's time for you to grow a pair and stop being a whiney little bitch and see that the advice i am giving is accurate, and that the BCPR6ES plug is a plug that is commonly used because it works, and any problems arrising with coils after changing plugs wasn't caused by the plugs, but by the fact that the coils were dying to start with and they changed the plugs hoping that it would go away. a good analogy would be someone with a vibration through the steering wheel when they put the brakes on. getting a wheel alignment and balance may help with the problem (more than likely not though), but if the rotors are warped the only way to properly fix it is to get new rotors.