mad082

the air fuel ratio should be about 10 to 11 for a stock car, and if it has been tuned it should be about 12. 14 isn't richer than 10 or 11, it is leaner. the lower the number the more fuel there is as it is the AIR/FUEL ratio, so when saying 10 or 11 or 14 that is 10 parts air to 1 part fuel. that is unless he is somehow reading the AFRs differently. for the AFR to be going so lean when boost comes on then you may have a fuel pump issue or a fuel pressure regulator issue. my suggestion would be to forget the SAFC and get yourself a nistune (pretty sure they do them for the r34) and get that tuned. that will cost you less than a PFC, give you the same results and be much better than the SAFC. should cost you under $1000 for the nistune and to get it tuned (similar cost to a SAFC but will give much better gains than a SAFC). as for the power you made and the behaviour of the boost, that really comes down to what mods you have. if you are still running stock exhaust, or only have a cat back exhaust and still have the stock cat and turbo to cat section of the exhaust then i would say that the power you made is about right, all things considered.

yeah they will fit. 27" rims are actually a fraction larger than 700c (i'm talking a matter of a few mm). you should still be able to get the brakes to work too. just have to be carefull on tyre choice, but since you will be running road tyres you won't have much of an issue there. what shits me off the most about roadies is that half of them are riding bikes that are 10 years old but have 9 speed dura ace running gear, but they will say that the new 105 gear is shit, yet it is pretty much just dura ace from about 3 or 4 years ago, so it's better than their old dura ace crap

build your frame if you want to, just expect to shell out a hell of a lot of coin if going all new. my guess is that going all new the parts would add up to somewhere around $1000, maybe more depending on brands used, as well as where they are sourced from. and what is wrong with velocity wheels? or aren't they a good enough brand name for you? just peel the sticker off them and put some other brand name sticker on them if you don't want to be seen with them. unless you feel like shelling out a heap of money on a set of easton wheels, or to a lesser extent mavic (i prefer easton over mavic unless you are spending lots and lots on wheels, but that is just my personal preference). that is my whole point with fixy riders. they disregard what is good to get what is cool. road bike riders aren't much better.

it might only cost $400 to buy all the gear to put a sunroof in a car, but the cost of getting someone to professionally do it will cost much more than that. personally i wouldn't even think of putting a sunroof in a car that didn't already have 1, but then i'm not a big fan of sunnroofs anyway. they are more for the wank factor than anything and as people have said, they reduce headroom, which being tall, i like to have plenty off. also sunroofs leak. it might not leak now, but eventually ALL sunroofs will leak and then you will get rust in the roof.

going for a drive to heat it up will work best if you have a can of freeze spray (such as loctite freeze and release). the reason being is that when metal heats it expands, so yes the diff housing will expand and make the hole a bit bigger, but the bung will expand as well so it will be in there just as tight (although sometimes the heating and cooling process can be enough to break the grip of the thread on the bolt, but other times it won't make a difference). take the car for a drive to heat up the diff housing. then when you go to pull the bung out, spray the inside of the bung (there bit where the socket goes) with a heap of the freeze spray. this will cool the bung down and make it shrink a bit and be a bit easier to come out.

i doubt the thermostat would do that. normally that will cause the temps to go up, not down. i'd be more inclined to say water pump. at low rpm the pump isn't pumping very much water and it isn't enough to properly cool the engine, then when the revs pick up the pump is pumping a lot more water and is able to cool the engine better. i had an outboard that would do exactly that. new water pump solved the problem. it may possibly be just an electical short in the system making the gauge do funny things though.

battery could've just let go, or been damaged by something, such as a dodgy alternator.

have a look in the yellow pages for a mobile autoelectrician. they should be able to come and diagnose the problem for a small fee and much more accurately than we can over the internet.

for the amount of time it has taken for this game i would want the ingame graphics to be as good as the cutscenes, but it won't be. never is though

some of them are classic, others just need a few mins with a flapper disc

the SR20VE head is the way to go if you have deep pockets and plenty of mechanical knowledge. from them it isn't hard to get 150kw at the wheels. if you go the s13 engine route and keep it pretty mild (like sticking with stock compression pistons, and mild cams) you should see 100kw easily. up the cams to a slightly bigger version and you should see 110kw easily. you may make more than that, but i'm just saying what is easily achievable and most people are making easily. as for deciding which engine to rebuild, that really depends. were you going to rebuild the engine you had or buy a spare engine to rebuild (even if you rebuilt a NA engine)? if you were going to buy a seperate engine either way then i would go the DET, but make sure you get an ecu for it as well, because with the bigger injectors the DE ecu won't run the car (won't idle, etc) until you get a tune on it to set it up for bigger injectors. but then a DET ecu probably wouldn't handle the DE engine that well either, but it would at least let it run well enough to drive it to a tuner.

other things to take into consideration before ruling out the GTSt option. 1: they have bigger brakes as standard 2: they have a LSD standard 3: they have a stronger gearbox 4: they have a turbo all ready there just waiting for mods to be added 5: not sure about over in NZ, but here they are starting to go for as much, if not more than their turbo versions, meaning you could sell your car and get yourself a turbo version and then spend the money you were going to spend on doing up your non turbo (and maybe a touch more) and end up with something putting out around 250kw. only downside to going turbo is that you will use more fuel, but how much more is soley determined by your right foot. if you drive it hard it will drink fuel like anything, but if you drive it sensible it won't be too bad. the same goes for a NA, but a turbo will drink it even more, especially once you wind the boost up.

those jiggle syphon hoses are a bit of a pain. a much better setup to use is a boat fuel line setup. they have the bulb in the middle of them that you squeeze to such the fuel though. also while you can use the fuel pump, it may take a while to do so. depending on how much of a hurry you are in it may be quicker to remove the panel in the boot where you access the fuel pump through and just syphon it out through there. it is a bit more fiddly to do but you will be able to syphon the fuel out quicker. but thinking about it, the extra prep time probably outweighs the gains from faster syphoning.

pretty sure the clusters are the same, but the dash surrounds are different.

ahahaha, ask munkyboy about the problems he has had with them

140kw? holy crap!!! (not being sarcastic there). that would be awesome fun.

yeah as everyone said, sounds about right.

when you say that the car doesn't normally run very hot unless giving it a hard time, do you mean that the temp gauge shows it sitting lower than half way for normal driving? if yes then your thermostat is stuffed and needs replacing. the temp gauge should sit at about half way during normal driving, and should only take a few mins of driving to get there from a cold start.

definately 98 for that setup

oh and you will find that a breaker bar will be better for initally cracking the nuts/bolts and the using the rattle gun from there. also the quality of the rattle gun makes a big difference. cheaper ones waste air while better ones will have a higher torque rating and won't waste as much air.

get something with about a 4hp pump on it. at the end of the day though, even a small 2hp compressor will put out the same amount of power to the actual tool though as it is the pressure that determines how well the tool works, and 100psi from a $100 compressor is going to be the same as 100psi from a $1000 compressor. all that varies with the better compressors is how much air they can deliver when the compressor is actually running, meaning that if you have something that uses a lot of air and you need to use it for long periods of time (like a spray gun were it will be used for a few mins at a time rather than a few seconds) the bigger compressor can supply the required amount of air.

as nic_a31 said, generally the hicas will only cause an issue if you are driving like a dick, but having said that, i had no issues with it when using my r33 on the skidpan, and some of the speeds on the flying loop were quite high (well at least the speedo read quite high, what the front wheels were traveling at was somewhat slower, LOL). as for changing the turbo, yes the ceramic turbos are a bit of a weakness of the RB motors, but to change to a steel wheeled turbo generally requires other mods to go with it, so it depends on how big your bank balance is.

depends on what mods you have. if your car is completely stock then you could get away with it, but 98 is the better option. if you are running higher boost or aftermarket ecu (that was tuned on 98) then you'll want to stick with 98. unfortunately that is just one of the many ways that owning a turbo import will empty your wallet.

people have taken the lights off before and cleaned them. search around on the net and there will be something that tells you how to do it. generally though most of the yellowing will be on the outside though, so you just need to buff them really well to get it off. i used a woolen buffing pad on a drill and it worked much better than doing it by hand.

having wide tyres on the rear can often reduce grip in the wet because it's much harder for them to pump the water out from the centre of the tyre.