mad082

meaning shit graphics. stunts was a racing game from back in the early 90's. possibly even late 80's. basically i was implying that polyphony has dribbled so much shit over the past few years about this game and then keep letting us down that when it is finally released it will probably just be some pixelated garbage with 2 cars, 1 oval track and the cut scenes will be footage of cars doing skids in carparks lifted straight from youtube.

somehow i doubt there is much you can do. there is a good chance that they bought it the way it is. unless you can prove that they were the ones who changed the cluster then i think you just have to live with it. but that is just the way it is with imports. you pretty much can't trust the odometer reading. however if the kms are really low and the car has been in the country for a few years then, depending on what state you are in, you can get a vehicle history check done and they will show you how many kms it had done the last time the rego was transfered. it's good if the vehicle has been owned by a few people (as each time the rego is transfered the kms are put into the system), but if someone has owned it since new, or since it had low kms on it then there isn't much you can do to tell if the kms are legit or not.

baaaaaaaaaaahahahaha, in think someone needs to learn about sarcasm. also needs to learn about how a bov works. if the spring is too loose on a bov then it will vent properly. it just might leak a bit under acceleration. if a spring is too tight then it won't vent properly and you will get compressor surge. there are too many posts in this thread and not enough time to facepalm them all. threads like this are why i spend most of my time in wasteland. at least discussions there are intelligent.... or contain pics of hot bishes

yes that is a vaccum line. it doesn't matter which vaccum line it is connected to as long as it is a vaccum line. also making the spring tension tighter will only make the problem worse. that is like trying to push a car and not being able to move it very fast so having someone pull up the hand brake to see if that helps. loosen the bov off as much as possible and see what that does. might also be worth checking to make sure that there isn't something inside the hose that is blocking it. take the hose off and try and look through it. also pull the bov off and make sure you can push the valve up by hand and that it isn't siezed. if it is brand new then there is a possibility that it was shipped with 2 springs in the bov, meaning that it is extremely tight and hard to open and you aren't running enough boost to open it.

sounds about right for a rb20 lag monster, maybe a touch high. but it comes down to a few things. the boost level you are running as well as the condition of the engine (compression) and other things like the tune.

that is the heater pipe. there should be a hose that comes from the engine to that to alloy coolant to flow through the heater box under the dash to make hot air come out when the heater is turned on. my guess is that it was disconnect because the heater box under the dash stuffed up and either wouldn't turn of or started to leak

since when has the LS engines been cast iron? they are an all alloy engine. the last cast iron v8 engine holden used died out about 10 years ago.

how tight is the spring in your new bov? if it is too tight and you are running low boost then you might not have the pressure to open it properly, or it will just flutter as it doesn't have enough pressure to force all the air out in 1 go.

i'd take the merc or the 911 over the skyline, no matter how much power the skyline has, LOL.

you want something like an LPG solenoid that has a simple open/closed setup, which is basically what manual dual stage boost controllers use between the 2 adjusters. then to make sure the bov stays shut all you have to do is have the solenoid open, floor it, once you have full boost close the solenoid and you will have 10psi holding the bov shut just like if you had the bov hooked up normally, and then you are free to enjoy the dose and extra lag as much as you like.

ok, so a few more updates..... apparently 33% of people who are waiting to buy gt5 don't have a ps3 yet. i'd believe it to, since i am 1 of them. some cars will have damage where they can lose bumpers, etc, while others will only get minor scratches. release date is up to sony, not up to polyphony, but they are still saying it isn't finished, despite the fact that 4 days before the march release was postponed Yamauchi didn't hesitate when confirming that it would be released in march. and finally, gt5 has been confirmed that it will have 3d support. which basically means that it will actually turn out to have graphics about as good as stunts did back in the 90's.

the new corollas are also nice. my sister has a 2006 one and even though it's an auto it still has plenty of go (for what it is). manual would ge better. jazz aren't bad cars either. one thing you will have to take into consideration with anything like the golf, etc is that (as far as i'm aware) they have the indicators and wiper stalks the opposite way round, so the indicators are on the left and wipers are on the right of the steering column, so takes a bit of getting used to. new lancers are also good, as are the offerings from subaru.

not sure exactly, but it's hot. like cooling system not working kind of hot. hotter than you should see in everyday driving if everything is working properly

since the car is a non turbo i'd just assume that the front brakes just happen to be the same as those of a maxima, but i don't really know for sure. as for the cut wire, i'd say they may have had something hooked up to the ecu that required the wire to be cut, or possibly they have cut the wire to disable the speed limiter. you'd need to work out which wire was cut to see what it could've been cut for.

blue over both white and red

i think people who think they know about cars but don't are worse than people who know nothing about cars. forums (including this one) are full of people who believe everything they read on the internet despite having no knowledge to back them up, and what they read was probably posted by some other moron that also didn't know what he was on about, so you end up with a heap of people all spouting incorrect knowledge as if it is gospel. people who know nothing about cars are a blank slate and can be educated. the other idiots are too set in their ways and won't change their mind.

how far you put your foot down really depends on the RPM. flooring it at low rpm won't really do anything more than 60% throttle because at low rpm you are already letting enough air into the plenum with the lighter throttle amount. as for changing gears at lower revs feeling like the next gear is pulling better, that may be somewhat of an illusion because you have just gone from a gear that is pulling really hard to a taller gear that simply won't pull as hard, but if you change earlier then you aren't getting as much of a rush from the lower gear so when you change gears there isn't so much of a difference in acceleration. also if you are accelerating from reasonably low in the rpm range in the higher gear you will be accelerating from lower in the torque curve so you may have sluggish acceleration to start with and then as the revs pick up it starts to pull harder so you notice the difference in performance which then gives the illusion that it is pulling harder than if you shift into that gear from higher revs in the lower gear.

3 to 4 car lengths at the drags will be a fair bit of time EDIT: just did a quick calculation as i couldn't remember the figures off the top of my head, but at 100kmh you are doing 27m a second. so if at 100kmh you are that far behind and they are still slowly pulling away, you are looking at close to a full second slower over the 1/4 mile, which when put like that is a fair bit of time. a lot of people don't think of that when they say "the other car had only pulled away by a few car lengths at 100kmh"

and yeah apollo made the salt and the pepper. stupid friggin things. they were chromoly though, not alloy. even the owner of apollo thinks they are stupid, LOL but they did do 2 nice "urban" 700c bikes this year. like a hybrid but more chunky (like a mtb with 700c wheels). slightly over priced though (probably because they were low volume to see how they would go). had they been a bit better priced i would've gotten myself one.

yeah the headtube angle is 1 degree more vertical than their normal road frames and the fork offset is 2mm shorter and rear end is a touch shorter. also the seat tube is a bit more vertical so you can really crank it while staying sitting on the seat a bit better. as for the gearing, yup, for people with legs like tree trunks. you gotta remember, people will hit nearly 70kmh on a track with that gearing and yet will also accelerate from a standing start with it, LOL

and yeah mtb's have a limit to how light they can go since suspension forks generally weigh close to 2kg (often more), compared to a set of alloy or carbon road forks which can be down around 0.5kg. plus the tyres weigh about twice as much as a road tyre. but the weight does add up, espeically if going up some stupidly steep hill. i have to walk up 6 flights of stairs every day, and if i'm taking the laptop home, or some other stuff, it might not weigh much but once you get to the top of the last lot of stairs you do notice it, especially since the last lot of stairs is about 3 steps longer than a normal flight of stairs and those last few steps really takes it out of you. most afternoons there will be people there doing training on the stairs. a lot of the personal trainers take people there.

on the back there probably would be. not on the front though cause of carbon forks (unless they already have the hole drilled). this is one (2009 model) http://2009.apollobikes.com/bikes09/id/41/...ord%20-%20Track and the other is the 2008 model of it http://2009.apollobikes.com/apolloproducts...ord%20-%20Track but sizes are limited to 58cm frames, and only in the eastern states, however they could probably get one sent across. pretty much identical bikes other than colour and the odd minor change (such as rear freewheel). RRP on 2010 model is $1899. reacond you'd be able to get one of the older ones for about $1000, depending on freight and how much the shop wanted to rip you off, LOL. they are running decent gear and are light. weigh in at about 7.5kg, which isn't bad for an alloy frame.

in america from 2008 to march 2010 nissan has sold 3,489 cars. the UK has been getting 1100 units a year (although that has been reduced) and pretty much all of them are pre-sold. i could only assume that sales in japan would be much higher than those 2 combined. the manufacturing plant is capable of turning out 1000 cars per month, and considering the amount of countries getting the GTR this time round i wouldn't be suprised if they are actually running at close to that, especially if you consider the amount of pre-orders they had. in wouldn't be suprised if world wide the gtr sales were close to (or more than) those of the r34 already. but while i don't think the GTR will be 30,000 in 2025, it may well be getting close to whatever the equivilant amount is once you take into account inflation, especially if in years to come people start importing them privately from japan in order to get cheaper ones, or different spec'd ones.

looked up the specs on the taos. bit heavier than 10kg. 12.33kg, but still very light. the alloy frame version of it is 13.2kg, so it loses nearly 1 kg just from the carbon frame. next model up is 11.75kg compared to it's alloy version at 12.5kg. the top model they do is 11.11kg

i was thinking about getting a track bike as well, but they have no provisions for brakes and are a proper fixy (no freewheel), but it was only a few hundred dorra.