mad082

spermy, just got sent through this and thought of you. they are taking orders now for august delivery. note the disc brake front end....

don't think it will be under the seat. should've been either in the spare wheel well or in 1 of the side gaps. more than likely it has been lost over the years, but i doubt by a tyre shop as they use their own jack to jack up the cars, they don't pull the one out of the boot, LOL. also if a standard wheel brace doesn't fit your wheels then a factory one sure as hell won't. you'd be best off just going and buying a socket set (a decent one so it has skinny sockets) or changing to the allen key wheel nuts. then just go and buy a new jack. personally i hate those jacks with a hook. i prefer the ones where they have the 2 little tabs on the end of the handle.

the loss of power thing may possibly be caused by an alternator issue, but then you would know because the battery would be flat all the time, so it isn't likely.

also they car was probably made big so that it was easy to remove or install if you bought a new car, or if it was something that needed to be replaced often. imagine if your credit card was the size of a sim card. it would be a pain if you had to try and swipe it through a machine everytime you bought something.

now i am assuming that this is the line that most of you guys are getting upset about. now i think the most of you need to take a few deep breaths, stop over reacting and read the 10 words before that again (as well as the sentence that follows it) which put the whole thing in context. they are saying that under the old scheme there was dodgy stuff going on and now it is much better. personally i didn't see anything bad in the article. they highlighted the fact that imports are cheap, they highlighted that the local manufacturers aren't all that happy about it because they are losing sales. to those who did get fired up by the streetracing comment, i must say that i agree. a hell of a lot of import owners do, or have done stupid things in them, and a hell of a lot of people buy them purely to do stupid things in them. a good percentage of people buying silvias and skylines would be buying them because they are fast, turbo, rwd cars that you can drift in and beat commodores or falcons off from the lights. if they weren't buying them for this reason then there would be a hell of a lot more NA versions getting around and not as many turbo versions, and the aftermarket parts sales would be much lower.

i have heard quite a few things about the JJR coils, and not many were good. i'd go for the yellowjackets. not much more in price but seem to have a better reputation.

as far as coils go, they aren't different colours between series 1 and series 2. different brands will be different colours (such as splitfires are blue) but they aren't different colours for different cars. just make sure that the coils you get specify that they are for a series 2 r33.

the air/fuel ratio for a non turbo running stock ecu can be anywhere from about 12:1 all the way down to 10:1. generally though it will be around 11.5:1 in stock form at high rpm, but does vary from car to car. when tuned though you generally try to get them up around 13:1 for a NA. bith richer for a turbo.

where are you getting the $250 installation cost of that much from? nistune themselves will solder in the board for $60. so including postage it will cost you about $80 or $90. plenty of workshops will do drive in/drive out tunes for $1000 or less including the cost of the ecu.

there would be plenty of 33's getting round with that sort of money spent on them. hell there are probably 32's with that sort of money spent on them. it might not have happened all in 1 hit, but over time it adds up. start with a dead stock car. new wheels: lets say 2k exhaust (decent brand): 1500 cooler (again, decent): 1k so there's 4.5k on very basic mods then lets say he blows a motor, or decides he wants more power and wants a built motor to take it ecu + tune: 2 to 3k injectors: 1k (rounded up a bit there) turbo: i dunno, lets say 3k with all water and oil fittings and manifold engine rebuild: honestly don't know, but i'd guess about 6k including everything clutch: 500 diff: 2k so there's 19k. then if he decides to give the car a respray, new bodykit and put in some racing seats or retrim everything, it wouldn't take much to eat up the other 11k. sure he could've bought something else for that money, but this will more than like blow the doors off it, and what if he doesn't like the shape of the 34 or the evos. everyone has their own taste in cars.

does the car have an alarm?

fitting driving/fog lights won't do much because you can only use them in fog or as high beam lights. can't use on low beam. what condition is the outter plastic lense in on your lights? is it cloudy at all? if it is i'd start by cleaning it. there are many ways to do it. cut and polish seems to do the job. secondly i would look at the adjustment of the lights. if they are adjusted poorly then that will affect how well you can see with them.

that doesn't mean that someone (possibly the importer or even back in japan) hasn't bought a lower km cluster and stuck that in. to be honest, just ignore the kms as there is probably a 70% chance they aren't genuine. judge the car by what condition it is in and then if you buy it get the timing belt done just to be on the safe side. for all you know the car could have 130,000kms on it and still be on the original belt.

more than likely the clutch being installed has nothing to do with the engine letting go. the clutch itself may have indirectly have something to do with it, but again, it would have only brought to light a problem that already existed. if you went a heavier duty clutch and then even just a few times did a few silly things then the extra stress from the clutch grapping much better could've been enough to be the final nail in the coffin for the engine. or it could have nothing to do with it and it is all just coincidence.

actually it's type M, not m-spec. m-spec is a model of the r34 gtr. type m in the r33's basically means that it is a GTS-t. all the GTS-t's were type m except for a handful of the auto sedans which i think were type g or type x (can't remember which) and i think that was mostly due to them having a different gearbox. the 40th anniversary bit though will give you a few extra cosmetic goodies, but nothing really to get excited over (i think mostly just the bages). i could be wrong but i think that all of the last of the 33's were 40th anniversary models (at least in the gts-t's), and weren't that much different to the rest of the S2 33's. there weren't that many changes even between the s1 and s2 when you get right down to the mechanical stuff that actually make a difference.

the skylines aren't so much a "performance car". more a sporty family car. and also what the sites recommend as the oil would be based off what nissan originally specified. if you look into what engine oil is recommended you will find that a base mineral oil is probably all that is recommended as well. this doesn't mean that you have to stick with mineral oil. you can go synthetic if you want.

oh and if all cars go hydrogen powered and are emitting on;y water vapour, i can see a problem with that too. major cities will become extremely humid in summer and also mould will become a major issue, especially in tunnels and inner city areas where there is limited breeze because of tall buildings, resulting in health issues from allergies, etc.

that's not quite true. emission laws are constantly changing. cars from the early 80's and earlier wouldn't pass current emissions even if they were new. they wouldn't even come close. for starters they don't need cat converters. the emission laws changed in approx 1985 (guessing here) but it was the reason why holden used the nissan engine in the VL. hell even the NEO RB motors and SR motors won't pass the current emission test for brand new engines. that is why most of them got scrapped. so you will find that the new diesels are much less poluting than the old ones. but then you also can't compare an old truck to a new car as the emissions laws for trucks are totally different to cars. and diesel has a much higher visible polution, but that doesn't mean it is worse. the other thing to consider is the actual pollutants in the diesel fumes to that of petrol. petrol has a higher CO2 level, but diesel has a higher NOx level.

not all had the xenon lights due to something to do with compliancing them. but the best way would be to get the vin number and post it in the fast thread and see if that will help you out.

yep looks the goods

i think the stalling issue may be more caused byt the IAC than the injector, but i could be wrong. the yellow could be a bit of spilt oil from an oil change or something like that.

yes you do, except they aren't the old style ones with blue and red lenses. these look like big safety goggles with tinted lenses and actually have batteries in them that control it all and cost between about $80 and $200 for spare ones

you could try to help the problem by altering the gap in the spark plug (make it smaller). also i'm too lazy to reread the thread, but have you tried taping up the coils? this may also help with the problem until you can get new coils

if it is for road use then you may want to check the legality of removing the abs unit