mad082

there is a big thread about air con trouble shooting/diagnosis. do a search for it

that's probably just winter killing the battery (happens when the battery is old and then the temps start to drop). easy way to test if it's the alternator is with a multimeter. could be anything really. could be that box you are missing. could be just a dodgy wire earthing out.

can also depend on the condition of the engine as well. a stronger engine will make more power with the same amount of fuel, etc. but on a mates 33 that i did a turbo install on the AFM wasn't quite maxing out at 250kw. it was getting very close to it (high 90's %), but hadn't quite it 100% though. that was with a 3076 with the skyline rear housing running 16psi. can't remember if he had the injectors in at the time or not. i have a feeling the injectors may not have gone in until after that as the stock ones were getting extremely close to maxing as well. i'd have to go looking through the dyno thread to see whether they were on the mods list at the time of the dyno run.

it may be that the motor is shot. not really sure about the brown box thing, and can't really go look at a car to see, but my grandfathers camry had the wipers start playing up. they were driving along and the wipers just started going mental. turns out that the voltage regulator in the alternator had let go and it was charging at 18 volts. other than blowing pretty much every light that was on at the time, it also fried the wiper motor (even though the wipers weren't on at the time) and then, even after the alternator was fixed, the moment the key was turned on the wipers would go. only fix was a new motor

for the fuel pump, just go an internal unit such as a bosche 040 or a nismo. for the intercooler, you really want to get the best one that you can afford. some of the cheap ones are ok, but others of the same brand can be crap. there just isn't the quality control of the better stuff. you don't really need a FPR. just use the stock one

the 02 sensor can be disconnected and the car will drive fine. it generally runs richer when it isn't working properly. if you turn the car over with 1 of the coils pulled out and with a spare spark plug earth to the engine, does it spark? if it doesn't then it could be the crank angle sensor. does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key to "on"? you said you have replaced the fuel pump, but if the fuel pump relay is shot then it might not be getting power to it. also try disconnecting the afm and see if it starts.

also a thermostat inside an engine with no coolant (or at least none getting to the thermostat) won't open very quickly. yes the engine will come up to temp quickly, but the thermostat won't open because the air doesn't conduct heat that well so it probably wouldn't open much at all. and then putting in cold coolant into a hot engine isn't the best idea, for the same reason you don't hose down a hot engine. the massive change in temperature can cause warping, etc. topping up hot coolant with cold coolant is ok because you are adding a small amount of cold fluid to lots of hot fluid, so by the time the cold coolant got to the motor it would already be hot.

if you fill the radiator up, and the thermostat has a jiggle valve in it (ar at least the whole for one, which it should) then a large amount of air will escape from inside the head before the thermostat even opens as long as you fill the radiator relatively slowly, or have the bleed screw open while filling, as this will all the air to be pushed out by the coolant so you wouldn't end up with as many pockets of air. if you are really paranoid about it then you could leave the thermostat out (and the thermostat housing off) until coolant starts to come out of the head and then put it back on and fill up the last of the coolant and then start the car and bleed the system.

if they are series 1 r33 then they are the same as the rb20. series 2 r33 are different, and i think the r34 may be different again. if it has an ignitor unit (square thing at the back of the rocker cover) then they are series 1. if no ignitor unit then they are series 2

yeah it says "nismo GT-R supporters association" which to me just sounds like it was just a face made up either to sell to the public or a group/forum buy type thing.

unless of course he was simply talking about the width of the rims with the 7.5 bit, but that still sounds a bit odd/small

because of the VVL head. the power they make from stock with a few very minor mods (ecu, cams, etc) will be as much, if not more than a rather heavily modified rb20. look at the stock figures (of the most powerful versions of each). rb20: 114kw, 186nm sr20ve: 152kw, 206nm the sr20ve puts out more power (but less torque) than a rb25de. even the autech version of the sr20de put out 150kw (the one that came in the autech s15). there are plenty of people on the pulsar forums with ve motors who are making up to around 130kw at the wheels with relatively stock motors (just a tune, exhaust and some with cams). a few guys have gotten the n1 cams out of the sr16ve n1 motors to put in them, but so far i'm not aware of anyone who has actually tried to build a high powered one yet. also comes down to which of the 2 versions of the VE motor they use, as 1 is only around 139kw at the fly stock.

if you already have the complete setup for the s2, then just drop the s1 motor in bare (so no AFM, throttle body, etc) and you won't have a drama. then you won't have to do any stuffing around with wiring, you just plug everything in and it will run fine.

check the coolant level. if it is low then it's the headgasket. also check the oil. if it is milky white then it's a headgasket as well. you can do a headgasket and not have milky white oil, but if the coolant is low then it's a pretty good sign that the gasket is shot.

you just fill the radiator up as much as it will take and then run the car with the cap open. there will still be plenty of fluid in the engine so no damage will be done. then once the car warms up and the thermostat opens the fluid will start to drop as the small amount of air escapes. also using the bleed screw will help with that. since you only flushed the radiator recently and then you discovered that sludge/crap in there, i would be inclined to get the radiator professionally cleaned, or just get a new radiator. there will be a hell of a lot of crud still in the core which just flushing it with a hose won't solve.

i'm with gimps. i think round the 6-7k mark is all most people would look at paying for a car with panel damage.

i'd take a guess that the tube was $7 (the general price for tubes, unless it was a thorn resistant one, then it was probably $17), and the tyres were $40 each. depending on what sort of tyres they are that isn't that much. unless of course they fitted the tyres for you then you could expect the labour to be about $20 a tyre, so you'd have the tyres at $20 each and fitting at $20 each and $7 for the tube.

some people have been lucky though and not damaged the motor when this has happened. only way to know for sure will be to open it up.

it does to a large extent when talking about altering the boost on 1 turbo, but not if changing between 2 different sizes. on the stock turbo between 10psi and 14psi there is probably a 20 or 25kw difference in power. i know from what i have personally seen on a dyno with back to back runs the stock r33 turbo will make around 20kw more at 16psi than it does at 12psi. if it wasn't for the ceramic exhaust wheels on the skyline turbos everyone would be running them at 15psi, and there wouldn't be this mass of incorrect information about where the stock turbo runs out of power. people don't run them at 15psi because they are fragile (and because the stock ecu chucks the shits), not because they won't make any more power.

i really hate it when people come up with stupid names like that, LOL.

you didn't really read what i said did you? there are 2 different types of r33 afm. if the rb25 came out of a series 1 r33 then you can use the rb20 one as it is the same. if the r33 was a series 2 then you will need to make sure you get a series 2 afm, or you can change the wiring to get the s1/rb20 one to fit.

very nice

mods please? you certainly couldn't have done it with only the power rating at the top of the screen, because i can't even get into the 40's with full mods but on street tyres (superlap challenge). i think when doing the superlap challenge i put on medium race tyres and pulled out a low 48 second lap on my first try. maybe tomoro night i might have another go (not going to be home tonight). sounds like a challenge though.

that is actually a rather useless analogy when talking turbo sizes. that is a good analogy if you were talking about different size intercooler pipes or exhausts, but as far as turbos goes it's useless, because in an engine the size of what the turbo has to fill with air remains the same if all you do is change the turbo. in your examply you have to round the wrong way with your example. you are changing the size of the wrong thing (in this case you are changing the size of what is being filled, not what is doing the filling).

there is a good chance you are getting close to, or hitting the ecu airflow protection. there are only 2 solutions to this. 1 is cheap, the other expensive. the cheap one is actually free. simply wind the boost down to 12 or 13psi. the other option is a new ecu. the other thing is that (from what i am aware) the stock mapping of the r34 ecu's is somewhat.... what is the word i'm looking for here..... conservative through that part of the rev range.