mad082

Not sure. 368 I think. I'll run and look. Have to go into a different room of the house to get reception. Just did a 1.38.2 on medium race tyres. Just checked. 378hp

Yeah I'm about the same. Have done 3 laps. Spun on 2 of them. 1.47.222 on the third but it was a shit lap. Off the track lots. Missed most apexes of the corners. Could easily do a 1.46. Don't know about a 1.42 tho. On r3 tires I probably could. Abywho I,m going tgo go play a bit more. I'm posting from my phone and am quickly running out of battery.

I did a 1.48.649 with the race suspension. Also was playing with the nike. Got a 1.41.5. Will post a pic on Monday Will go and play on the new track now

while having negative camber will always wear out the inside edge of the tyres more than even camber, but with adjusting the toe of the wheels you can reduce that wear. that is what people are trying to say above. hoever you want toe in, not toe out to reduce the wear on the inside edge. on my pulsar i had minimal camber (was stock height. it was under 0.5 degrees), but i had about 2.2mm of toe out and it was scrubbing the inside edge of the tyres pretty quickly, as well as causing extra torque steer.

depends on the colour of the dragon

do a youtube search on it. i haven't personally played it, but it appears to be good (realistic).

as said above, the gauges aren't exactly accurate. often the higher the boost the more inaccurate they get, and they often read lower than what the actual boost level is. my advice would be to go and buy a cheap boost gauge. even one of those drift ones for $50 will be much more reliable than the stock one.

i think there is the gt5 prologue (haven't played it yet), so i would assume that there is in the game as well

another good way to shoot flames is to snap your exhaust cam but have it still holding together enough that it all still turns but the timing is ridiculously retarded and then you can just sit there and go on and off the throttle and it will shoot flames. here is a video of it

exactly. i don't even like using the wii remote for mario kart. i'd prefer to use a normal controller. and i thought as much about the release date. sony australia has probably told them that it will be out before xmas or something like that, but i doubt they have any official date. i was going to go see my mate at harvey norman on the weekend and see if he has heard anything or not.

i have heard plenty of bad stories about biodiesel. it seems to have issues with water contamination if not stored extremely carefully.

actually 2010 brought us expensive bikes. 2009 brought us expensive bikes. before the dollar crashed in 2008 bikes were much cheaper than they are now. that taos c that i got in, origianl 2009 model rrp was $1899. 2 months later when the dollar crashed the price went up to $2189 (about 15%). the 2010 model is $2599 and pretty much all that is different is the colour and the grips. with the dollar dropping at the moment i'm guessing prices will rise again by about 10%

i got it from apollo bikes (the australian wholesaler). you may have missed the bit about how i own a bike shop, LOL. as for the 2010 model being down around $1000 by xmas, i highly doubt it will get below about $1400. the 2010 model will be old stock by then and more than likely there will be none left. the 2011 stuff comes out in about 2 months time, and judging by the way the dollar is going at the moment, the new stuff will be more expensive than the current stuff, so that will be a big halt on any price reductions of old stock as they can run it at full RRP and still have it be cheaper than the new stuff.

i got a 144.033 on a pretty sloppy lap. my very first lap was a 1:49. i only did about 6 laps as i then had to go cook tea. will play it again tomoro night or on the weekend (gotta drive down the coast after work today so no playing it tonight). will give that a go on the weekend. don't like the nur as i really suck at it

is there anything on the cap that says anything about requiring a dot fluid or anything like that? i'm going to take a stab in the dark (because i don't know that answer), but wouldn't it just be like brake fluid? it essentially performs the same task.

i have a dyno app on my phone and my office chair has 1540hp apparently, LOL

exactly. the stock turbo becomes a time bomb above 13psi, so if i was you i'd be expecting it to blow any time now. it may last 6 months, it may last a year or it may blow tomoro, but it will blow (unless of course it has been highflowed, then it will be fine). also at 17psi on the stock turbo you are probably getting out of it's effeciency range. you'd be able to drop it down to 15psi and be making a similar amount of power but be somewhat safer on the turbo (still not ideal though). as for the ecu, one option is to go a z32 afm. they are the same size as the rb25 one but read in a slightly different resolution, so you will be able to get up around 250 or 260kw from it before it starts to max out. oh and welcome

would another option be to import the car and then before the car is taken to the compliance place, try and get access to it to swap as many of the parts back to stock yourself?

ok, sounds good. i'll crack it out again tonight for a few mins as well before lost starts

actually, what would be good to try would be to use the nike car (if everyone still has it). that thing isn't too bad to drive, but i'm guessing no-one has really done much racing with it so we would all be on a level playing field. i've only done a few laps on 1 of the city courses to see how fast it goes.

ok we can do that track. i've never really raced on it as far as going all out, so should be a challenge. only races i've done on it have been ones that have been part of championships, so never taken a car around in my spare time unlike some of the other tracks. so now it is just a case of picking a car. as much as i like the skylines, i'd really like to use something completely different since we are going out of the ordinary with the track. how about something fwd or rwd rather than 4wd/awd. hell why not even pick 2 cars to use so we can have both a rwd and fwd challenge. something like a s15 for the rwd and a honda integra for the fwd. also what will be the rules on mods, etc? fully modded but default settings? what tyres? sports, racing or normal, and any restrictions on compound? obviously no nos

if they are already sitting out near the edge of the guard then i think your only option will be different wheels. as far as i know there aren't really any aftermarket uprights available. there may be, but i'm not aware of any. most people don't usually run 9.5" wide wheels on the front. generally they will only run 8's, or 9's at the most. there are a few running 9.5's with similar offset to you without issues though. that is why i asked if you were sure of the offset.

well if it's the ring then count me out cause i just plain suck at it. why not do it at a track that's a bit different, rather than one that everyone always races on. something like midfield raceway. it has high speed corners, long corners, long straights and the corner just before you go under the tunnel requires a bit of braking while turning. as for cars, i'd like to go something that isn't a nissan for once. i actually have a soft spot for the au falcon v8 supercar. around tsukuba i'm quicker in it than a gtr.

in the forced induction section at the top there is a dyno thread. there is also one in the naturally aspirated section.

i think you will find that the problem is that it is an iphone, LOL