mad082

there is a limit to how much the ecu will learn. and it isn't that much (and i think most of it applies to light load). the only way you could run on 91 octane would be to retard the timing, but then that can cause heat issues as well and you'll still end up with pinging. you can run the car on 95 octane provided you have the timing set to the standard 15 degrees and you aren't running too much boost. running 91 octane isn't going to be safe and the car would more than likely run like arse the moment you hit boost. the power loss would be more than 10 - 15hp. i'd say more like 30 - 40hp.

also find out which hose was cracked and replace it. the patch job the mechanic did may be leaking, or the hose may have other cracks in it.

the r34 turbo on an rb20 will boost at pretty high rpms. that's just the joys of owning the lag monster that is the rb20. 4500rpm might be a touch high though. if the cat was collapsed then it may rattle, but you would also find that boost at high rpm would start to drop off. also i would recheck all the manifold studs. make sure none are broken. other than that the only other real possibility is that the turbo is stuffed.

each time before you drive the car check the coolant level. it should sort of bleed itself over the first few drives.

draining you are better off having it on a slope (unless you were using the drain bolt), however filling i probably say that on level ground. also when i was reading through the manual the other day it said that when filling up the coolant you should have the bleed screw removed and fill the coolant at no faster than 2L per minute. i'm guessing that this is so the rising coolant is able to push the air it is displacing out the bleed screw hole and not cause as many pockets of air.

just to be different, n15 SSS pulsar

the stock gauge doesn't read in psi, and is pretty innaccurate, so it's no great loss not having it hooked up

there isn't really a set time. some will stuff up after 50,000kms, others at 300,000kms. some will just die overnight, others will slowly die.

the pfc has a slightly better mapping system than the nistune (more cells) but the nistune is a better overall system in my opinion. sure it doesn't have a hand controller, but the cost of the unit plus tuning is generally less than the cost of just a pfc itself without tuning. power wise it should produce the same power as any other unit as the power you make is purely based off the skill of the tuner rather than the ecu. it should also handle a hell of a lot more power than 200kw on a r32. according to the nistune site the speedlab got 373kw out of a rb20 running a nistune.

may be something simple like the timing has been played with and is currently more retarded than it should be. or it may be something serious, like low compression

you could just remove the yellow hose and put the new hose there and then you won't need an adapter

things may have changed since it was last on the dyno. your fuel pump could be dying for example. that would be leaning the afr's out and causing the detonation. or it could just be from the change in humidity as blind_elk said. also if the air temps are colder then that may be affecting things as well

if you up the boost at all then i would recommend going to heat range 6 plugs. as for the gap, that really comes down to the strength of the coilpacks. if they are still in good condition then you could get away with the 1.1mm gap. also next time you get plugs i wouldn't bother getting platinums or iridiums. i'd just go the cheap coppers. doesn't work out to be any more expensive in the long run, just change them every 10 or 15,000kms. in a stock setup you'd probably get nearly 20,000kms out of them.

+1 for the oh god, but he didn't just pull the turbo off, he pulled the turbo motor out and put a non turbo motor in. but since you have already done it, what ecu are you using the one for the neo or the one for the turbo engine? why isn't the fuel pump in the car working? is it getting power? if it isn't then that may be the reason why it won't start. the ecu may not be thinking that car the is trying to start and not injecting fuel and giving spark. get a spare plug and remove a coilpack and put the spare plug in it and see if it is getting spark. if not then look at things like the crank angle sensor.

yeah gary told me. i might try and drop in

sweet motorboating jeebus!!!!!

the numbers vary because of different spec (also different publications may say different weight due to differing scale accuracy). for example in later model cars where airbags and abs are options you will be looking at a rather large weight difference between models with and without. also sunroofs will alter the weight of the car too. even the wheels you have on the car will alter the weight. i would take those numbers as a rough guide. even if you put your car on a weigh bridge i wouldn't take that weight as being the exact weight of the car as there will be a margin of error. even a 1% error on something as heavy as a car can be 10 to 15kg.

yeah i asked my mate at harvey norman and he said that they don't know a date yet. i told him that places were taking pre orders and he said that was stupid

it could be something moving around, such as a wire and the connection isn't that great, or the wire has been rubbing and rubbed through the casing and is shorting out.

there is no more simple way than just connecting it to a battery. just double check that you were connecting the right wires. should be red and red/white to positive and brown and black to negative. don't bother touching the illumination wire as i think that simply dims the screen. if you have done that and nothing happened then i'd say the unit is dead. i'm not sure if they have a fuse in them that can blow. might be worth looking into that

i think you'll find that is for the r33 and these weights are probably dry weights, so add in a tank of fuel and the car will be heavier than those figures.

found this....... http://www.costco.com/Common/CostcoCategor...=&cat=55531 look at what's second on the list. this is the second site i have found with a release date for pre orders. i'm guessing that they know that a release date is due to be announced at any moment, so they are just trying to secure as many sales as early as possible so are just making up bullshit dates and will just change them when they actually know what it is.

i wouldn't. apple fanboys were jerking off over the ipad from the moment it's name was mentioned, even before they knew the first thing about it. if you just say "iphone 4g" in front of these guys they will just about cream their pants. you familiar with the lisa lionheart episode of the simpsons where they make a doll to compete with malibu stacy and then all the girls end up buying the malibu stacy dolls just because they come with a new hat? well that is pretty much the apple/apple fanboy relationship.

that made me laugh so much. apple used to have this reputation of never having issues. now that reputation has gone to shit thanks to the iphone (and possibly the ipod but i don't really know much about them), and i'm guessing that the ipad will do the same thing.

a bit over 1300kg, depending on options