mad082

he can't turn the boost down. it is a rb20. stock wastegate is about 10psi.

sony has started to really step up the gt5 advertising now. the car they are sponsoring in the le mans 24 hour actually has GT5 logos rather just the GT logo that they were using previously. they have a playable demo at the race as well. all signs are pointing to a definate release date at E3, and the date being soon.

pretty sure it's about 65L. fuel light generally comes on with about 10L to go. the needle will usually be at the E line when the fuel light comes on so you have a bit of a reserve to get to a fuel station

you have a stock exhaust. that will be restricting things in the top end. the cat may also be a bit blocked make it even more sluggish in the top end.

nissan put the front mount on the gtr because it needed to be there from factory for them to be able to run it on the cars once they were built for racing in some classes. this has nothing to do with whether it could handle the 206kw or higher that they were actually putting out. this is so they could handle the 400 or 500kw that they would be putting out once turned into race cars. since it is cold over there, you should easily see 190 to 200kw

series 1 and series 2 33's both need the z32 or r32 ecu for a nistune. it's about 5 wires that need to be cut and swapped for the z32 ecu. not exactly hard as for only going so far with mods, how much power do you want? there are people running nistunes with 500hp, so i don't think you will run out of scope too quickly. there are just a lot of die hard pfc fans who think it is the best ecu ever made and say that anything else is crap despite the fact they know nothing about them.

it shouldn't unless they share the same line.

how is it mounted in the boot? does it just have a hose running off it into the bottom of the tank or does it have the stock pump working as a lift pump? if it has the lift pump setup, that may be the cause of the problems. the stock top mount intercooler on a subaru is a fair bit bigger than a stock skyline side mount cooler. it is bigger in area (i'd say nearly twice the size), plus it is thicker than the skyline one. even despite the fact that it is in an area that suffers from heatsoak when there is little airflow, the cooler itself is a well designed bit of gear, and it is actually open to much higher airflow than the skyline cooler. the issue with the stock skyline cooler is due to its size, rather than its flow. it is only a small unit, so in hotter weather, or higher boost levels it will heat up quickly when driven hard and won't be that effective at cooling the intake air. in winter it isn't so much of an issue, especially in new zealand where it is pretty cold. that said, you would still notice a bit of a difference between the stock cooler and a fmic because the fmic is always going to be more effecient at cooling the intake air, and this results in more power. also the design of the stock cooler is pretty ordinary. in a fmic the air can pretty much flow through the core with minimal direction change, where as the side mount cooler the air comes screaming in, hits a wall and has to go to the side through the core, hits another wall and the has to make another 90 degree turn to get out. while it wouldn't slow it down much, i'd say it would make a bit of a difference.

were you driving around somewhere hilly? was the car parked on a slope overnight? if so then that will cause the fuel gauge to fluctuate. in the missus pulsar if i have under 1/4 of a tank and go up a hill the fuel light will come on, and if i'm driving around hill places with low fuel then the gauge will fluctuate. this is simply because of the location of the sensor and the way that the fuel will slosh around as it gets lower.

yes sort of. the best thing to do with any car though is to simply drive sensible for the last km or so before you get to where you are going. the car will cool down better when it is actually moving than it will just sitting there running. this way also your brakes, etc will also cool down a bit and not have super hot pads sitting against a rotor in the one spot as this can cause warping, etc. if you drive the last minute or so of driving normally then you can just turn the car off and walk away when you get there. this includes turbo cars.

the problem your mate is getting with the fuel surge is due to how the pump is mounted, not due to the pump itself. it obviously isn't mounted low enough and then once the fuel gets low and you start going over bumps and round corners the fuel is sloshing away from the pump and it can't pump any fuel. as for the side mount, in winter it will be ok as the colder temps will limit heat soak, but going to a fmic would be better. about the mines ecu, they are just a genericly tuned ecu with things like air flow cut and speed cut removed. while you will get a bit more power, it isn't always safe power. it may be running too much timing and you might be getting a bit of pinging. just be sure to put it on a dyno after you put it on to get the AFR's checked.

if it was half mile the gt-t would win for sure. that's because it comes down to pure hp, weight, resistance, etc. traction off the line isn't as crucial.

yeah i hop you have a big bank balance. it isn't just the engine that needs to be built, but so does the gearbox, diff, axles, roll cage, etc. then you will need a good set of slicks. at a guess i'd san an easy $50,000 to get something that reliably runs in the 10's if you are paying someone to do it. if you do ALL the work yourself then that will make it cheaper. that said, i know of a sr20 powered datsun stanza that's run a 10.5 and probably cost about 25k to do.

colour, model, etc? i may know them, or at least know of the car

the hop in and drive off thing also comes down to where you keep your car, etc. if you park it in a garage and you have to reverse down the driveway, wait for cars, and then go then you really could just hop in, start the car, once it is running just start going, because the first 20 seconds or so of the car running you pretty much aren't doing anything more than just idling the car. if you park out on the street and can literally hop in and drive off straight away then it is a different matter. at my place i will hop in, start the car, let it run for a second and then select reverse. all i have to do is let the clutch out enough to just grab a bit and the car will start rolling down the yard, then i just need to let it out a little bit to clear the gutter. then i can just turn the steering wheel and start rolling fowards down the street. i'll just put it straight into second gear, let the clutch out at about 10kmh and just stay idling along in second until the end of the street (about 4 houses away).

how much over the full line was the oil? if it was only 2mm or so then that's fine. if you were to start the car, let it run for a few seconds and then turn it off and check the oil level you would find that it would probably be pretty close to spot on. it isn't until all the oil drains back out of the head that it will actually go above the line. as for oil at the back of the rocker cover, it is common for them to leak from there. it may just be that you hadn't noticed it before hand. the only thing to really worry about is the weight of the oil used. that is something you need to find out. too thin or too thick could cause issues. if the weight of the oil that they used is ok then any noise you are hearing may have absolutely nothing to do with what they have done and may be purely coincidence. hard to say unless you know all the facts. as far as servicing a skyline goes, for things like an oil change they aren't any more special than any other car. as long as a good oil was used and it's the right sort of weight then it shouldn't really matter who you take it to.

might be worth getting a consult cable, that should show you any errors, as well as what the afm voltage is doing when it is like that. if the engine is in the vl in your avatar and you don't have the consult port then that may make things a little bit more difficult. you could try unplugging the afm when it is doing it to see if that makes a difference. also if you happen to know anyone with a s1 r33 who you could borrow the afm would also be something to try. could probably check the afm voltage on the harness where it plugs into the ecu as well as at the afm to see if it is an issue in the wiring or in the sensor.

yes but do a search on how many 10 second gtr's there are and how many 10 second rwd skylines there are.

it depends on what sort of chip it is running. if it is something like the nistune daughterboard then it can be done with just the nistune software and a laptop without touching the rest of the tune. if it is a rom chip that has to be burnt each time something is altered then it will need to be done by someone who can do that sort of thing.

don't think you can check engine numbers in fast. pretty sure it is only for vin numbers to see what year and model the car is and what standard equipment it came with (colour, auto or manual, engine size and aspiration, etc). never seen anything in there about engine numbers though.

what do you mean by limp mode?

my mate has a stanza with a sr20 putting out decent power (runs c16 and a big turbo at 30psi). revs to 9000rpm (launches at 6800rpm). he said that the hardest thing to do is try and change out of first gear without it bashing on the limiter for ages. it revs up so fast that you don't have time to gather it up off the line and then grab the next gear before it is banging on the limiter

just get one of the just jap or xforce bell mouth ones.

you should just be able to use brake fluid. just check the cap on the reseviour.

ok to answer your questions, the dump pipe in your link looks pretty ordinary. it is porbably better than stock, but not as good as others on the market. secondly, no you won't have such a big difference in power that you soil yourself. in fact you will barely notice it. it will feel a touch quicker, but as i said, barely noticable.