mad082

yeah what gets you ploice attention ina commodore is mismatched wheels, lack of mufflers and lowered so much it is sitting on bump stops. if you have half a brain and do mods sensibly then you won't get any attention.

+1 to this. but that said, if the car has an aftermarket ecu and has been tuned like this then just leave it the way it is because the tune would've taken into account the extra base timing.

it isn't that hard to do, but the question has to be asked, why? the clutch fans are a good system that work well and draw plenty of air. unless there is a problem with the clutch fan, leave it on there.

if you pull the hose of the wastegate then you will get unlimited boost. but if you simply run a hose from the cooler pipe to the wastegate without a restrictor you will only get 5 or 6psi. i know this because i did it when my boost controller was playing up. and yes putting a restrictor in the hose will give you different boost levels. the smaller the hole in the restrictor the less boost it lets through to the wastegate and the higher the boost you will run. the bigger the hole the closer to stock it is. putting a restrictor in as well as a boost controller can give you finer adjustment of the boost.

look for the part number for an n15 SSS. it uses the same o2 sensor as the r33 does.

most likely the popping sound is simply from the bigger exhaust.

oh dear son of rajab...... <insert facepalm pic>

simple answer, yes it will.

don't be misled by the higher power output of th celica motors. the power is all up top. actual performance wise they aren't really any quicker then a SSS pulsar with 36kw less power. the reason being that the corolla makes a touch more torque (1nm more), but it does it at about 2000rpm higher. the pulsar makes peak torque at 4800 rpm while the corolla doesn't make it until 6800rpm. my friend has a celica and she says that out pulsar (which has extractors and exhaust) is much faster than her car is.

how do you figure that? the stock wastegate will only give you 5psi (which will be about 6 or 7psi with full exhaust and cooler done. you need a boost controller to get it higher. if you do the solenoid mod you will get about 9psi all the time with the exhaust and cooler done. shouldn't be too hard to fit the xr6 cooler, just cost you however much to get the piping done, but should still be a fair bit cheaper than buying a full kit.

the stock gauges are well known to be innacurate. as for testing it, get a bike pump that has a gauge and a long piece of vacuum hose and a ball needle. then have someone slowly pump and look at the gauge while you look at the gauge in the dash

the drain bolt in the side of the block is the only way to get the tap water from the block. or if you have a heap of spare distilled water then you can tip that through to dilute the tap water a bit. i personally don't think it's all that serious though. i think you'll find a lot of mechanics use tap water to fill top up radiators. i remember seeing in the service manual of my pulsar that the coolant should be changed every 40,000kms i think it was.

if it is only squeaking as you start to move and then gos away then it will more than likely be the brakes as tiberis said above. wheel bearing will generally get louder when you turn corners.

you could always paint them black.

jb and eb games have had pre-order available for a few weeks now (was mentioned earlier in the thread) but they don't actually know when it will be out yet. would be funny if the japan release date wasn't until december and we weren't going to get it until next year. would make jb and eb games look stupid...... but would make me a sad panda

i always thought that the 180sx had a 55L tank. the 57 probably meant that was the total if the filler neck was full as well. and r33 tank is 65L. fuel light will generally come on with about 8 to 10L to go. that way you still have enough fuel to get to a servo before it runs out.

no, he lifted off and that's why the gtr went flying past. that's why the camera guy then turns around to show the air brake

only difference is that to then go faster the rb20 is easier to extract more power out of. but that said, i'd go a rb25 because they will put out with the very basic mods (exhaust, cooler and a bit more boost) than what an rb20 will with more mods.

i don't think they were allowed to move it. pretty sure that's why the aussie gtr's also got an oil coiler. had to be fitted from stock to be able run it in racing.

the fj20 is going to put out more power than going natro with a set of webbers.

what's with the boring first minute showing us the gtr turning around? and which race actually counts? the first one where the gtr blitzed it or the second one where the veyron wins? also guessing that fact that it's raining probably didn't help at all

vn commodores are actually down around the 1300kg mark, which is the same as a skyline.

going to a bigger rin tyre should make the suspension feel stiffer (because you are going to a lower profile tyre so there is less give in the tyre sidewall), but i'm not sure about being less responsive. depending on the road that you were on it may be that the smaller sidewall and less give in the tyre is making the tyre skip across the road surface as it can't deform as much to follow the surface of the road or it may be the different tyre compounds. withouth actually driving the car i can't really say though.

speedo won't work as i'm pretty sure the r32 speedo is cable driven while the later models are electronic. could probably overcome this by using the r34 gearbox, but will then have issues with the fact that the r34 sends the signal through the ecu and the r32 does it differently. not sure about tacho

yeah i'd get the vaccum out so that you can suck up the bits as the lift off. shouldn't take that long to do. all the ones i've seen done have only taken a few mins with a razor blade.