mad082

also it's not like the licences are going up overnight. it's going to increase in increments between now and 2014. the initial increase is only going up to about $96 dollars.

apparently there is going to be weather in GT5, as well as stunt arenas, track editor and go karts.

not hard to outrun the cops. i know someone who did it in a stock 6 cylinder eb falcon without going over 145kmh (in a 100 zone). he didn't even know they were chasing him. they only caught him cause he stopped on the side of the road to talk to a mate. as for the engine/turbo. the turbo will be somewhat obvious as to whether it is blown because it will either make horrible noises or blow smoke, however you won't know whether it has had damage done that has shortened it's life. it may blow in 6 months time. for the engine a compression test will answer some questions, however unless you had previously had one done you won't know for sure if it is any worse off than it was previously.

personally i'd go the 6's, but i wouldn't be using platinum plugs, i'd just go with copper. BCPR6ES is the part number for the ngk copper plugs i was running.

is the club rego a requirement, or did he decide to go that route? the reason i ask is that a lot of hot rod guys put their rods on club rego because it is cheaper and the car doesn't have to be as roadworthy to get it. a lot of the hot rods would never pass a roadworthy to get it fully registered. also if you have club rego you can only drive the car to club meets/cruises/shows. you can't just drive it to the shops to get milk. my in-laws are in a rod club and one of the members went on a cruise where they stayed over night. he drove the car to go out for tea and was booked for it cause the car was only on club rego, and driving out to tea wasn't classified as as part of the club cruise (cause it wasn't a club dinner).

exactly. that's like how people say that they should get rid of the tax on fuel. well if they did then there's a few hundred million dollars less tax that they would then have to get off us by increasing the tax on something else, so at the end of the day you'd still be paying out just as much in tax.

yeah it would be pretty easy to get it engineered and then it will be street legal (to an extent - wouldn't be if you have atmo bov's etc) so then you wouldn't have to worry about it.

this is incorrect as someone pointed out below. we will be on par with some other states. NSW is $151 (as posted earlier), and from what i could find SA is also $150 a year. the way things are going they will have to rename this state to the whinging state. i'm not going to bother signing because like anything involving the government (any government, not just QLD's), it doesn't matter whether we like it or not they will do what they want. also because i refuse to sign a petition where the person starting it doesn't even do the research to see if what they are saying is correct (saying that qld will be the most expensive when it isn't).

old news

you will probably start hearing this a lot when you start talking about turboing a NA skyline but i'll say it anyway. you are better off selling your car and buying a gt-t, for the following reasons: stronger gearbox better brakes LSD (if yours doesn't already have one) what you sell your car for will probably buy you a GT-t since NA ones are a bit more valuable because of the P-plate restrictions. if you look at what it will cost you to buy all the gear to turbo your car you are probably looking at a few thousand, where as for the same money you could buy one that is already turbo and then modify it and have more power (plus the better brakes and stronger gearbox)

nissan actually continued the rb20 into the r34, but it just wasn't turbo. and in the r33 they went from using a dohc rb20 to a sohc rb20 putting out about 20kw less, LOL

just do the pump and thermostat. would probably look at either getting the radiator professionally cleaned or a cheap alloy one. depending on how many kms the engine has, it may be worth getting the timing belt done at the same time if it is going to need doing shortly. sometimes it is cheaper to get a new radiator than it is to get flushed.

generally the thermostat will open about 85 degrees. if you are running aircon you will want it on most of the time when the aircon is on. if not running aircon then you could still have it come on around 70 degrees. that said, in the missus SSS pulsar, with the aircon off it doesn't turn on until 100 degrees if doing below 20kms, and over 20kmh it turns on at 95 degrees (taken from the workshop manual).

what boost is it running? you are probably on the verge of rich and retard (the ecu's airflow protection, a bit like a boost cut). may also be an issue with either the spark plugs or coilpacks. the clunking is probably some sort of bush that has perished. take it to a reputable sttering place and get them to have a look.

whether it is legal or not depends on a few things. if you are on your p's then no it isn't legal, but then even just driving the gt-t isn't legal either. but as far as legality goes, you can legally put a commodore motor in if you really want. it will still need to be blue plated though. it isn't just a simple drop it in and go type of thing either. well it sort of is. i'm not entirely sure on this, but i have a feeling the sump needs to be changed, and then there is the wiring. you just use the rb25 gearbox, etc. you would be better off getting all the parts together for the engine and then bolting it in in 1 hit. will save a lot of hassles as the engine is much easier to work on out of the car.

bad batch of fuel would sound like misfiring and would happen whenever you floor it

i'm not sure how good you are at maths, but that is actually 400rpm that it is dropping to, not 200rpm. each of those marks is 200rpm. as for the idle, i'd start by adjusting the idle screw to get the idle up. there is a proper way to set the idle. from memory you need to get the car warm, then turn it off. then disconnect the TPS plug, restart the car and rev it over 2500rpm about 5 times in a few seconds. this should lock it into base idle mode. you may find that the idle is totally different to what it is normally. then adjust the idle up to where you want it, turn the car off, plug back in the TPS and you are all set. or you can just use a consult cable and a program like datascan i think it is. that's what i do. when the ecu is in base idle mode it locks the timing at 15 degrees, and locks the IAC/AAC valve at 40 and doesn't try to self correct the idle. this way you can get the idle adjusted to a point where the ecu can then use the IAC/AAC valves to adjust the idle in either direction. if you just simply wind the idle screw without it being in base idle mode the ecu may try and compensate to keep the idle where it is and you won't actually be altering the idle until the ecu has run out of adjustment, which means at othe times the ecu can't adjust the idle to where it needs to be.

doesn't limp mode kick in around 2500rpm? that's often caused by a dodgy air flow meter.

if there is fuel in it (although it will most likely actually be oil as that's what gives it that rainbow effect) then there is a chance it's the head gasket. however it may have had the head gasket let go in the past and that is just residue from that and isn't related to the current issue.

still no workies. if i click on a letter it just brings up the last 10 posts on the forum but no albumns

if you don't fix it then you can end up damaging more than just batteries. the alternator in my grandparents car stuffed, was putting out 18 volts and blew the wiper motor (which wasn't on at the time but it just started to go full speed and wouldn't stop), blew the headlight bulbs, dash light bulbs and tail lights.

this is a thread about gran turismo 5, not grand theft auto 5

check the exhaust manifold studs to see if any are missing. it may just be the manifold gasket if it is a fluttery sound

that site is a big old fail. i can't even find 1 soundtrack on it, let alone any that i want to listen to.

i still have to work tomoro.....