mad082

auto sr20de will be up around 9 to 10 seconds i'd say.

the throttle body comes into play as well. if you only have the stock throttle body then going bigger piping won't really give you any gain as the throttle body will still be a restriction.

it's a car that cost about half of what the gtr did 20 years ago, or in perspective, the new gtr costs about the same as what the r32 did (once you take into account inflation, etc), so the sti wrx is about 1/3 the cost, has 2 less cylinders and 100cc smaller engine, and is designed to be something, that when modified, doesn't need to put out 1000hp, but only needs about 350 to 400hp with a buttload of traction and short gear ratios. different horses for different courses.

but as it says in the quote he posted, it says nothing about the fan turning off due to the coolant being tool cold, just that you won't be getting the full effect of electric cooling (less drain on the engine) and puts extra stress on the fans. this is where i refer back to the stock settings on the fans on a car that came out with thermos from factory. on the pulsar nissan has it that the fans come on when the aircon is on regardless of engine temp. this means that even if the car is stone cold the fans come on. pretty much any car with factory fitted thermos will be the same. this means that it can't be that bad to have the themo on before the car is at operating temp, and i've never found to it affect how long the car comes up to temp. the car still comes up to temp faster on a hot day with the aircon on from the moment i start the car than it does on a cold day with the aircon off. but as i said earlier, if the aircon is off the fans don't kick in until much higher. here's a pic of the setup from the workshop manual

also if you were to get a turbo car and pull the turbo off, it would be gutless. you'd be lucky to make 100hp.

a lot of detractors seem to dislike any way of reducing the road toll other than reducing the power of vehicles and increasing fines. there are only 3 ways to properly reduce the road toll and get hoons off the streets. 1: make it harder to get your licence. go back to the old scheme where you could only make 3 minor mistakes when driving, instead of the 7 or 9 you are allowed now. 2: better education. this includes existing licence holders. make it so that if you get booked a certain amount of times in a set period or have an at fault accident then you need to resit your licence test. i think this would be good for a lot of the old drivers (not talking really old people, but in their 40's and older) who think they own the road so don't indicate, tailgate, don't give way, don't stop at stop signs, etc. it would remind them of how they are supposed to drive. also do what they do in europe and make it so parents aren't allowed to teach their kids to drive. that will stop them passing on their bad habbits. 3: provide more facilities for people to do motorsport. if they did this then i would be all for them increasing fines to pay for it, because then there wouldn't be any excuses. make it something that is available to everyone without having to drive hours to get there (for me the closest drag strip is 3 hours away) and then more people will use it. my only negative criticism of having the course though would be if they were to teach p platers how to control the car in the even of oversteer. basically you are teaching them how to drift and will give them more confidence in doing it rather than teaching them to drive safely. as long as they stick to handling the car in emergency situations and focus on actual driving ability such as following distances, negotiating obstacles at speed (such as swerving to miss a car that has pulled out in front of your), etc then i'm all for it.

also depends on whether the previous sheet was done at higher boost that what yours was. if it had been done up around 13psi and they had used the afc to try and prevent r&r (and also lean it out a bit as a result of that) then they could've gotten up close to 278hp

it's in the DIY section i think

you can either twin turbo the rb25 or bolt in a rb26, but as was said above, there's not much point twin turboing the rb25 as a bigger single will do the same job. the only reason to twin turbo it would be for the wank factor so you can say to people "i have a twin turbo rb25. how cool am i?"

it depends on what state you are in. bp doesn't have a refinery in every state. none of the oil companies do, so in some states bp might be caltex 98 or something like that, and in other states the caltex might be bp. it's cheaper for them to buy fuel off another company than ship it there. you are safe to run any 98 really. any issues you may get from using a different brand fuel will more than likely be from the fault of the individual station rather than the brand of fuel.

dark26 said above that he was told you could at jb hifi

i think that all P platers should have to do this course, but it shouldn't mean that they get their licence any sooner. the school i went to used to have the year 11 or 12 (can't remember which) off to the local roadcraft centre for a 2 or 3 day driver ed class. we would spend time in the classroom doing practical stuff as well as out on the skidpan doing braking in the wet, braking while turning, etc. it was good fun and taught us a bit as well. however it didn't stop me doing stupid things in the first year of having my licence.

if you want to make it sound real cool, i have some duck callers at work for about $15. it's not hard to make them fit, LOL

rofl

slight update on release dates. on sony france's press site it has the release date as the 24th of november. so that gives an indication of when europe will get it. still just need to find out when australia gets it.

the op has an s1. i'm assuming the lights he is talking about are the ones in with the indicators. i know that in my 33 they didn't have any lights in the clear section, only in the orange section for the indicators. but i have heard of 1 or 2 people having lights in there. either way, simple solution is to simple disconnect the wires. that way you can't get booked again.

just had a look, turns out that there is one in brisbane in october, yay. couldn't find anything on one in WA though. the only reason why i want to go is to see all the stuff of the brands i don't sell. this time next month i go to the apollo trade show in brissy, and then sometime in august i will go to the redline trade show, but at the ausbike show there will be all/most of the brands there, as well as parts and accessories. as far as the bikes go though, i could always just do the rounds of other shops because most brands will have already released their 2011 range and have it in shops before the ausbike show.

on saturday august 21st is the ausbike bike expo. it runs for 3 days but only the saturday is open to the public. it's at the melbourne showgrounds (exhibition pavilion), open between 10am and 5pm and is free to get in. i'd like to go but i can't afford to. i just wish that they'd show it in brisbane for once.

aaaaaaaaaaaahahahahahaha, he thinks that because i'm from gympie i must be aaron under a different username. oh my lawd how that made me laugh. next time i see aaron i will have to tell him. sorry to dissapoint you, we aren't the same person. bahahaha, oh lawd.........

+1 for tyres -1 for stiff suspension (if you want a good launch then use the stock suspension. stiff suspension = wheelspin) +1 for highflow, ecu and tune.

i saw a program the other day showing how a guy had a home setup and was making biodiesel. was pretty interesting. he was making it from old cooking oil he got from take away places. was interesting to see. went through most of the steps as to how he did it, and the chemicals he added.

more than likely they are. if you are worried about the fuel pump just go an aftermarket pump.

might be just the dash unit itself going spastic.

the link you have entitled "old articale saying cost will be $150 for 1 year" actually says that the cost will be between $120 and $150 for 1 year, but it is also from feb, so to be taken with a grain of salt, especially when most newer articals say that it will be around $150 for 5 years, so i'd be more inclined to listen to them.

you do get slightly better protection, and it will more than likely have corrosion inhibitors in it. i'd check specs of the coolant you put in and just see if it does have the rust inhibitor in it. if it does then i'd just leave it in there for now. also comes down to how much you drive the car. generally they will have a life span on coolants that isn't just how many kms, but also how many years. i think most coolants are supposed to be changed every 2 years or so if you don't have to change them earlier due to kms.