mad082

rowan, the lower the thread count, the more likely you are to get punctures. as for durability, the dearer tyre probably has a slightly more durable compund rubber to it as well. had i know you were in the hunt for a new tyre i could've sold you a michelin pro race3 a few weeks back for $30. had it on ebay to get rid of it. wholesale cost on them is about $45

a lot of those carbon breakages would've been from some pretty serious crashes, also one or 2 of those breakages look to caused by manufacturing faults (warranty issues). you'd find that in most cases an alloy frame or bars would've either bent or snapped and have to be replaced as well. that is the thing with carbon. it only flexes a small amount before it cracks/snaps, while alloy will just bent and stay bent, and when you try and straighten it it will then crack. in a lot of cases carbon frames can be repaired, unlike alloy/steel frames. and if you have an expensive bike then you can get insurance through a few places that do home and contents insurance that cover bikes for crashes, etc.

as for what type of car to compare it to for speed, they are about as fast as a commodore or falcon. if it's an auto skyline then a bit slower.

99% of the auto careers have bugger all pay. you are just a general labourer basically. if you love cars and want more money and want a trade, go into the building industry. if you speak to a lot of mechanics they will tell you that working on cars as a job ruins their love of cars, because then spend all day doing it at work so they don't want to do it when they get home.

LOL. i could start a site called "crackedbmx.com" from just the amount of damaged/snapped high end bmx bikes i've seen over the past year or so.

there are a few different plugs i think. AFM and TPS are different (not sure if they are on the loom you are talking about). also not sure if where it plugs into the coil loom is different as s1 has the ignitor unit there and the s2 doesn't.

oh and to answer the original question, the turbo should boost higher than what you are trying to boost it to. the issue you are having could be caused by a few things. 1: faulty boost controller 2: vaccum/boost leak 3: blocked cat (however if this was the case it would boost up then drop back as it got higher in the revs)

if you have a spare bit oh hose, try moving where the aftermarket gauge is getting it's reading from. if possible go to before the intercooler

i was running my s2 turbo at 14/15psi and had no issues. as people said, it's the exhaust wheel that packs up it's bat and ball and goes home (which evidently is the cat converter) that causes 99.9% of actual failures on the rb turbos (not counting oil seal leaking as a failure) (whether it be rb20, 25 - r33 s1, s2 or r34, and even the gtr's of each model). this the results in the nylon compressor wheel doing it's impression of a watermelon hitting the ground after being dropped from the top of the empire state building, while the steel wheel just does an impression of an old fighter plane prop that thinks it's a drill bit.

exactly

the post made me LOL hard. what a fkn nugget also lol at noob digging up thread

here's a few fields off the top of my head: (there is probably proper names for these but this will give you the general idea) aircondition specialist tyre fitter brake and clutch specialist engine rebuilder panel beater gearbox specialist parts interpreter (generally work at dealerships, etc in the spare parts department)

+1 for no. especially the fixed cameras. everyone knows where they are, they are common knowledge, so if you still get caught by them then stiff shit. and besides, for that short period of road where the speed camera is people will slow down. as for red light cameras, i have no issue with them. while they might not save lives, they are catching people who are running lights and could possibly cause an accident. i've never run a red light, but i've almost been taken out by someone who did. unfortunately there was no camera at that set of lights so he didn't get caught.

looks dodgy and cheap. i would trust a mouse with a straw more than i would trust that pump.

yeah i had a mate with a similar story. bought a turbo supra, 600hp, etc. then a few weeks later when i told him i'd like to come to have a look he said his old man had made him sell it. another mate asked his old man and he simply said "what's a supra?" LOL

is the a squeal like a loose belt? if so tighten it up. also it's not the best to actually hold it at full lock. best off just backing off the slightest little bit (doesn't have to be much)

i feel somewhat let down. i came in ready to make comments like "i really hate the school holidays", etc but there is no need........ *walks away depressed

the fuel pump can NOT make a car run richer unless the old pump was dead and not supplying enough fuel. replacing a working fuel pump with a new fuel pump that has a much higher flow rate will make no difference at all to the amount of fuel being used, etc, as that is all controlled by the injectors and fuel pressure regulator. all the pump does is supply the fuel. any extra fuel that isn't used is simply pumped back to the tank.

i am. i'm waiting for the game to come out. you never know, they may do a bundle pack with the game (more than likely will i'd say) and there is always the small possibility that the consoles have dropped in price by then

will it plug in? yes will it work? no. as above there are differences in the wiring. don't think it's just the 2 afms either. have a feeling 2 wires are different

the advan tune will be a full custom tune. they will simply load a map from a previous tune based off similar mods onto your ecu and then customise it from there. loading on a map from a previous tune just gives them a base to start with that will save them a bit of time. it is no less custom than any of the other tunes though.

sounds like a good way to get money off gullible people. generally these things never give the results they claim, and the cost of them outways and possible saving they may give.

040's are a good pump and will be capable of supplying enough fuel if you decide to upgrade things in the future.

the bigger injectors themselves aren't going affect the engine. you could put 10,000cc injectors on a stock engine and it won't affect it at all because you then tune the ecu to only allow the injectors to put in the same amount of fuel as it was before. what will put more stress on the engine is the turbo. this then pumps more air into the engine, and therefore you have to put more fuel into the engine to balance it out.

you better believe it hi and welcome. we don't expect you to post too much, you know, with all the times you have to pull the engine out and all