mad082

depends on how/why the cat failed. the cat may have failed due to being a bit blocked, and therefore once it has let go then it will be letting more air through and you would notice more power.

the ecu throws a tantrum at lower rpm if the airflow is more than what it thinks is acceptable/safe. as for what airflow to aim for, you want an AFR of around 12:1, however because you are just using a signal bender (safc), you may find that you start getting pinging before you reach that point, because as you bend the signal to alter the fuel map you are also indirectly altering what point of the ignition map the timing is reading. so you may just want to keep an ear out for any signs of knock while you are tuning it.

yeah apparently they are supposed to spill the beans about pretty much everything at gamescon

it could be caused by 1 of a few things, but i doubt any are due to changing fuel, it was just purely coincidence. 1 may be that the seal around the fuel pump is a bit dodgy and then once you actually filled the car up has leaked a bit. another is that the filler neck isn't sealing properly behind the cap. another is that you have a leak somewhere in the engine bay, such as an exhaust gasket. or possibly the cat is dead, but i don't think you usually smell that in the car. i'd say that the smell is more due to having a full tank of fuel and to check things like the seal around the fuel pump.

the one about the r35 gearbox was funny, as was the one about gt5 for the sony

ok, it really depends on the type of wheels he has, but generally the 8" wheels are simply held on by a single nut as the centre of the wheels acts like a normal hub does. this will mean that he will need to buy hubs. there are a few different stub sizes though. generally they are 1 of 2 though. 39/40mm or 45mm. the smaller of the 2 is classed as holden bearings, the bigger ford or slimeline bearings. by simply measuring the inside diameter of the bearings you can usually work it out. the next issue will be choosing what PCD wheels he wants and getting hubs to suit. all the while he will have to be mindfull of 2 things. 1: will the bigger wheels fit under the mudguards 2: will the axle be long enough for the hubs to stick out far enough from the chassis of the trailer so that they tyres and rims don't rub on the chassis. i know that with my trailer, which was designed for ford wheels, but only stock steel wheels with pretty much a 0 offset wouldn't take the wheels off my magna due to the wider tyres and approx 40mm difference if offset. they would rub on the chassis before the tips of the axle studs poked through. then there is the minor issue of the fact that the ID plate on the trailer will have specified that it is only supposed to have 8" wheels, but i highly doubt that the police would take any notice, as long as the wheels don't look stupid (which i'm guessing they will). the easiest option may be buying a set of 10" wheels for the trip home. they will be a fraction better than the 8" and then when he gets home look at upgrading it to bigger wheels, because it will pretty much need a complete overhaul.

either 1 or 3. option 2 will work out more expensive than the others, and if you upgrade everything on a gts to the spec of a gts-t, it will cost you nearly as much as buying the whole car, where as if you sell the gts and buy a gts-t you'll nearly be able to do it without having to spend more than a few hundred dollars, or not even having to spend anything at all.

it will make a bit of difference, but the point is that the cops wouldn't book you for not having the rear muffler there (so sleeving the muffler is pointless), or for having the resonator removed. they don't care about that. they will simply book you for how loud the car is, and once they are booking you for one thing they will look to see what else they can book you for. that said, a few guys round here have been running twin 2.5" shotguns out the back of the car with either just the centre muffler/resonator, or no mufflers at all. most of them have been booked for it though. only know 1 out of them who hasn't.

ignore the o2 sensor. unplug it if you want. you don't need it to try and solve the issue you are having. the car will run without it as it is only used to alter the mapping at low load. the moment you go over about 40% throttle (depending on rpm) the ecu ignores the o2 sensor as the air/fuel ratio will be outside what the o2 sensor can read. the stock o2 sensor can only read between approx 14:1 and 15:1. anything outside of that range is considered either rich or lean as far as the o2 sensor is concerned and it can't tell how rich or how lean as it is already maxed out. at full throttle the stock map on the ecu will be somewhere between 10:1 up to 12.5:1 (since we are talking a mines ecu). as far as the stock o2 sensor is concerned this is rich, but it will have started saying it was rich the moment it got into the 13's. so my point is, you could remove the o2 sensor and throw it into the ocean and then put a bolt in the hole in the dump pipe to block the hole and it won't make a scrap of difference to the fact that you can't wind the boost up to 10psi. the o2 sensor is only there to give you better fuel economy when cruising along at low throttle, like on the highway. i think what more needs to be asked is, what exactly are you thinking rich and retard is? since you put in a mines ecu and it still does it, i'm inclined to think that your issue has nothing to do with rich and retard and it's simply your coils breaking down. i've known a few r33's with remapped stock ecu's, including one i had in my car, and all of them would take much more than 10psi without anny issues. my mates 33 could run 16psi without anny issues. i was running around 14/15psi through it, where as the stock ecu had given up at 13psi. another mate of mine who i did a turbo install for was making 250kw on his remapped ecu with only minor tuning from a greddy emanage to calculate for the bigger injectors and add in a touch more fuel, but i hadn't put in anything to prevent any sort of pretection like rich and retard. so again, to sum up what i just said, pull out your coils and spark plugs and inspect them. i'd say there is a good chance that what you are thinking is rich and retard is simply a missfire caused by your coils breaking down, or spark plugs being dead (but more likely the coils).

a mate of mine got defected while driving his mates 4wd. think it was a $110 fine and 1 point, plus having to put the car back to being legal. he was defected for a lift kit, or tyre size or something like that. may i ask why you want to do it? performance wise you won't gain anything, you will just be making the car louder (am assuming that is the goal?). having said that, a turbo car without the rear muffler isn't that loud. you may get away with it, but if you do get pulled over for it, then make sure you don't have anything else illegal because there is a chance they will then go over the car. so if youre tyres are getting low, or you have an atmo bov, or have cut the front reo to put a cooler on then expect to also be done for them too.

i have recently done it and it's a prick of a job, LOL. if you like sanding, and sanding, and more sanding, then following that with a bit more sanding, then it is the thing for you. you will hear people say that preparation are the key, and they are 100% spot on. i just did a dodgy job to get some paint on it cause the old paint was lifting and it looked terrible (is on a vh commodore). i didn't put that much time into the prep work. i just sanded it back enough to get it done and did a bit of a rough job. while the paint came out good, you can see that i went a bit light on the prep work. didn't smooth out all the dents, didn't make sure all the panels were smooth, etc. so it turned out to be a bit of a 10ft paint job (looks good from 10ft away, but any closer and it looks a bit dodgy, LOL). but i honestly don't care. i just wanted to get it done and over with.

any map that someone will have won't be the best to use on your car. it would be good enough to maybe drive to the tuners with, but i certainly wouldn't drive far on it, or even try flooring it. you really need to get it professionally tuned. someone else with all those same mods may give you a map that is fine for their car, but when put on your ecu may run like crap or ping like crazy.

yeah a lot of people think that the s2 have the ignitor built into the ecu. this is false. the ignitor on the s2 is actually built into the coils.

2.5". just go into an exhaust shop and ask them to make up an exhaust for you. stick with oval mufflers, will stop it from droning. probably need to put a resonator in the middle unless you want attention from the boys in blue. should only cost a few hundred $$$ to get it made.

yeah what pm-r33 said. i hopped out of my skyline putting out similar power to yours and into a s13 putting out about 200hp and the s13 felt quicker, but when you actually watched the speedo and took not of how fast it moved it wasn't quite as quick. also after i did a turbo install and tune on a mates 33 it was putting out 250kw and felt somewhat sedate to me, even though it scared him. i wanted to wind another 5psi into it. that said, a mate of mine with 255hp got a 13.8. another mate of mine with about 270hp got a 13.6. and another mate with an rb25 in his ceffy with 285hp got a 13.2. a lot of it comes down to tyres and how you launch. my mate who did the 13.8 had 18's on, hadn't lowered typre pressures, was his first run to the strip and his first runs were mid to low 14's, while my mate who ran the 13.2 has done a fair bit of drag racing and used to have a mitsubishi sigma with a stock sr20 in it (stock turbo at 15psi, stock ecu, 3" exhaust and fmic putting out about 230hp) and on street slicks was running 12.5's at 107 or 110mph (can't remember) with 1.6 60ft

how long are you waiting between primer and top coats? are you wiping them with wax and grease remover between primer coats and top coats? are you sanding the primer before applying the top coat?

does the temp gauge on the dash sit about half way? if it doesn't then that won't be helping your heater temps as the coolant won't be that hot so won't be heating up the heater. if that is the case, start by replacing the thermostat. also remember that the car has to be up to temp when the heater is on for any hot air to come out. if you are just hopping in in the morning and turning the heater on then the car will take longer to heat up and it will take longer for you to get warm air coming out the vents. you are actually better off driving for a few mins with the fan off and then once the car is nearly up to temp then turning on the heater. also check that the coolant lines to the heater box haven't been removed. often they are removed if the heater box starts to leak. i have seen plenty of skylines like this. otherwise search for the climate control diagnosis thread to see if it says how to check the solenoid.

a consult won't tell you what base timing is. you need a timing light for that, but even that won't tell you if the timing belt has skipped a tooth. you need to pull the covers off and check the timing marks to do that

what you have done is adjust the timing. it may have been cutting out for other reasons and by adjusting the timing you haven't really solved the issue, just found a bandaid fix. it may be that the CAS is faulty, or possibly the coils are stuffed. either way you should get a timing light and check to see what the timing is that you are running now because it may be pinging and that will eventually result in a damaged motor.

don't worry, if someone turns up with an auto NA 32 then you'll have someone to compete with, LOL. in manual form they aren't that bad, but the autos are slugs. the missus has a SSS pulsar (natro sr20) and it is pretty speedy (has 84kw at the wheels), but i think it is a bit lighter than the s13's, although they do put out 5 or 10kw less than the s13, so it probably balances out.

stock skylines are pretty slow. when i bought mine i was changing from a manual 3.5L magna and the skyline didn't really feel any faster.

i'd heard that bp ultimate was a minimum 98, while the other 98's were an average of 98, so some batches might be higher, some might be lower. but i think it still comes down to what i said above about what state you are in and what refineries there are. i think that until such time as you can get some off the record info from people in the know it will only ever remain as theories and rumours.

well the temp gauge should sit about halfway when running, so there is something going on there. this however shouldn't be causing the fan to be roaring. i would still look at changing it. as for the fan, the clutch in the fan is probably stuffed and therefore it isn't disengaging. this is better than having it not engage at all because it at least means the engine can't overheat. simplest sollution is to find someone selling a clutch fan and try putting that in to see what it does.

well look at it this way, it does it 1 second slower than when porsche put the r35 gtr around the track to try and replicate nissan's time and it does it 1 second slower than what a 911 turbo does.

i wouldn't be too trusting of them saying it will only be $150. just be prepared for closer to $200/250 as i said earlier in the thread. the collectors edition in the states is going to be $40 more than the normal version ($59 vs $99), and the $59 games there are normally $120 here, so even if you work of our prices being double that will still put it up around $200. i really hope what you were told is right (because then i will put my name doen for one), but i'm highly sceptical.