mad082

people will be running all sorts of ecus. most people will have pfc's but more and more people are going to nistune. there'd be a few microtech's, etc as well. doesn't really matter whether the car is a series 1 or a series 2. as for the tune, they will all be different as they really need to be done specifically for each different car to be any good.

the coils may look ok, but may not be ok. try taping them up with electrical tape and see if that helps at all, but my guess is that you'll be up for new coils.

do you block the senders? can't remember if you can block domains as well. also comes down to who your email account is through. i've never really had any issues with any of my accounts that are through my ISP, but i get in my hotmail account, in which case i have the filter there turned up to high.

where did you pre-order it? i sent a message to a mte who works at dicksmith to ask if he'd be able to find out info on the australian release date and if we were getting the collectors edition here.

not really, because just torque and power mean nothing by themselves. weight, gearing, etc all come into play. i'd hazard a guess that my SSS pulsar could accelerate from 50kmh in 5th gear faster than a manual 6 cylinder commodore or falcon could, despite them having about 30 or 40% more torque, because the pulsar weighs about 30% less and has shorter gearing and 50kmh in 5th would be about 1700rpm, while in a commodore or falcon it would be about 800 or 900rpm (so only just above idle). but we are getting off topic. my main suggestion is to go put the car on a dyno. that will tell you all you need to know as far as whether there is a fuel issue, as well as whether it is down on power or not (which if there is a fuel issue then it will more than likely be affecting the power)

tow-ring? you mean the keyring? yeah i saw it. not sure where you will be able to pre-order it. i'm guessing it will be a few weeks before even the shops know about it, at least. it's still about 6 months away so i don't think sony will be rushing too much with getting all the info out. probably leave it until they send out the statements to their customers at the end of the month.

accelerating at 50kmh in 5th is hardly a good basis of power. so many things come into play that make it irrelivant. for starters the weight of the car, gear ratios, cams, tune, where the car makes it's power, etc. i daresay that a 1.6L pulsar would beat a turbo rb20 by a hell of a long way doing that race as for the fuel pump, you could put 10 massive fuel pumps in so that it could empty the fuel tank in 5 seconds and that shouldn't make a scrap of difference to how the car runs. the reason being that the amount of fuel being pumped shouldn't have any bearing on the running of the engine. if squashing the fuel line makes the car run better then it means something else is wrong. if he squashed the fuel line running to the fuel rail then he was reducing the amount of fuel, therefor something like the fuel pressure reg is stuffed, or an injector is leaking or something like that that is allowing too much fuel into the engine. if it was the return line that he squashed to make it run better then it means that the fuel pump is dead (or at least has a wiring issue) and not pumping enough fuel, or possibly again the fuel pressure reg is dead, or the fuel filter is blocked, etc. and if it isn't pumping enough fuel at idle then it sure as hell won't be pumping enough once the revs pick up.

depends on tyres, driver, etc, but should be into the 13's.

how many of the people you have spoken to have actually driven a fwd hard? 99% of people who bag out front wheel drives cars do it for 1 of 2 reasons. 1: they don't like them because you can be fully sick and drift them so that means they are shit. 2: they have never driven a fwd, or at least have never driven one hard, or the ones they have driven were from the late 80's or very early 90's and things have come a long way since then. i say, don't listen to those people and actually drive one and see what you think. for everyday driving you won't notice a thing between a fwd and rwd. it is only once you start to push them hard that you will notice a difference, but neither is better than the other. they are just different. they both have areas where they are better than the other. i drive a SSS everday and it's a great car. the only time i notice any difference between it and a rwd is if i'm doing silly things in the wet, or really giving it the beans on a rough road where it will torque steer a bit, but that is hardly annoying or hard to control. you can easily control it

6 things can cause overheating issues 1: water pump 2: thermostat 3: blocked radiator 4: head gasket 5: air in the system 6: clutch fan not working one of the easiest to tell is probably the thermostat. if the car takes more than a few kms of driving for the water temp to reach normal (halfway on the gauge) then the thermostat is shot. however sometimes it can do this but not open enough and therefor cause overheating. another way to check is to go for a drive then after about 20 mins to half an hour pull up and touch both radiator hoses. the lower hose should be a bit cooler than the top hose. if the lower hose is much cooler (is pretty cold) than the thermostat is stuffed. the clutch fan is also very easy to tell if it's stuffed. you will only get the overheating issue in traffic. if you drive along a motorway where you can get a decent amount of air flowing through the radiator then temp will drop. however this can sometimes also be what happens with a dodgy thermostat. you can't really tell if the radiator is blocked without getting it professionally looked at. the water pump you can tell if it is pumping, but you can't really tell whether it is pumping enough. at higher rpm it may be cavitating and not pumping much at all. i had this happen with my outboard on my boat. headgaset is the worse case scenario and is sometimes diagnosed by oil in the water and vice versa, but not always. another way is by bubbles in the coolant. air in the system usually sorts itself out, however bleeding the system can help. it is probably the least likely.

pretty much none of what you have listed will really affect power, at least not without some other obvious sign that it is failing. if the spark plugs or coils were the issue then you would hear them breaking down when you accelerated. they could however be affecting the idle slightly. the afm could possibly affect things, but usually there will be other symptoms. also you have to remember that if you had mods done to the rb20 (exhaust, more boost, etc) then by putting the natro 25 in you may have dropped 30 or 40hp and that is why it feels slow. you are using the rb25 ecu? bit of a stupid question, but it has to be asked. if not then that will be the problem. fuel pump shouldn't be an issue as far as being the wrong type, etc. it may be an issue from being dead/dying though. best way to check is to put it on a dyno. then you will see what the AFR's are doing, as well as what sort of power it makes. that will tell you if there's something wrong. it should only make about 110kw/150hp or there abouts (can vary depending on mods, etc but that is a rough estimate) and as was said above, check the timing. check the timing with a timing light, and if it is ok then it might be worth checking that the timing belt was installed correctly.

it also comes down to what you are comparing it with. to be honest, 200kw (270hp) in a r33 doesn't feel that fast. it is fast, but not that fast. because the rb25 makes it's power down low and pulls all the way to redline it doesn't have that turbo rush that some other cars have. one day i hopped out of my 33 making around 200kw and into a s13 making about 160kw and it felt much much faster. i know they are a lighter car, etc, but because of the way that they don't really start to pull until higher in the revs you get a feel of the sudden rush of power. the 33 just doesn't feel that quick, until you have something to compare it with. i know that my old 180sx that would've been luck to be making 150kw (was stock other than cat back exhaust and 9psi boost) felt quicker than my 33, however once you were up against another car, or the clock, you saw that the 33 was actually reasonably quick.

actually that is wrong. what happens is that if you block off the bov, when you lift off the accelerator the butterfly in the throttle closes. this leaves a heap of pressurised air with nowhere to go, so it goes out the only opening in the system. this is back through the turbo. this is why you get the "tu-tu-tu" sound. this results in 2 things, 1: your turbo slowing down, and 2: all that air then continues out through the AFM. now since the AFM doesn't know which direction the air is traveling, it thinks that the air is going into the engine, not out of it, so it starts putting in extra fuel. this results in the car stalling, or almost stalling. in the case of an atmo bov, something slightly different happens. when you lift off the bov opens and vents the pressurised air. this air escaping then sort of sucks more air through the afm. the ecu doesn't realise that this air is just going to vent out of the bov rather than actually go into the engine, so it adds in extra fuel, thus making the car want to stall.

the ignitor on the s2 motors IS NOT built into the ecu. it is built into the coils. some people on this forum may say that the ignitor is in the ecu, those people are also wrong. this is the reason why s1 and s2 r33's have different coil packs. i have personally run a s1 ecu with an s2 motor, so i can 100% garantee that it can be done.

for the cost of a SAFC2 i'd look at going a nistune. by the time you get a safc2 and tune it you would be spending nearly as much as a nistune, but the nistune will give you more power.

pretty sure the rule is that you can go as large a rim as possible as long as the diameter of the tyre is no bigger than 15mm more than standard or 26mm less than standard. the 1.3 times rule applies to the width of the tyre. so if the widest optional tyre was a 205 then the widest tyre you can legally fit is a 265. then both those rules can be followed but you can still not be legal if the tyre doesn't have the correct load rating. then if you get wheels with the wrong offest you can be defected for altering the track of the vehicle. (can be widened by up to 26mm, so that's a difference of 13mm offset per wheel. can't be reduced though) there is no rules reguarding the maximum width or height of rims (unlike nsw where you are allowed to only go 26mm wider than the widest optional rim without needing it certified), however you would be bound by what tyres you can run as your tyre/rim combination must be suitable (can't put super wide tyres on skinny rims, and can't stretch a 235 onto a 10" rim, LOL). they must still meet the australian tyre and rim standards.

the ford indigo was cool as well. nfs 2 was so much better than the first one. you could actually win races in number 2. i've played the first one a few times and never even come close to winning a race, yet i can finish all the others. i love this video from nfs 1 though . especially where it is hard under brakes

you can block off the bov so it doesn't let any air out, but while you may get some extra popping, you will also find that the car may stall a lot everytime you push the clutch in to stop at an intersection. if you want pop flames, etc on deceleration, put a few cracks in the exhaust manifold worked well on my mates falcon after his extractors started to crack at the welds. would backfire and shoot ouf flames. just expect to lose some power

i have nfs 2, 3 (the original hot pursuit) and 4 (high stakes) for pc sitting in my desk here at work (as well as x-wing). might have to load them up for a bit blast back to the past.

works out good for me. gives me 5 months to finish my car and sell it and for the missus to save up to buy me the ps3. she's getting me the ps3 for xmas and i'm getting her a 32" tv

and probably 90% of them have had the cluster changed to one with lower kms

from reading some of his other posts, he's an international student whose parents bought him the car

it has day/night transition should also point out that the november 2 release date is for north america. it is expected that it will be worldwide, but no confirmation yet. so we may not get it until a few weeks after that, however i think it would definately be before xmas as sony australia would be down right stupid to leave the release date until after xmas

yeah the injectors are different (top feed vs side feed for the 33) but the size is the same.

IF they fit on they should be fine, however i would find it very odd if a caravan has a subaru stud pattern on them. i think you may find that when you actually try to fit them to the car the stud pattern may be a few mm out (usually caravans and trailers will be ford or holden stud pattern)