mad082

the nissan workshop manual actually says that the bolt should be removed when filling, not afterwards. this allows the rising coolant to force the air out straight away

and i pretty much agree

i think you will find that while the pipe is cooler, the amount of temperature difference in the actual air temp is minimal. the reason being that the air is flowing through that pipe at such a speed that the relatively small surface area of metal won't be having much of an effect on the large amount of air. now i'm not saying it wouldn't have any effect on the air temp, but nowhere near as much as is thought by some people. the air is flowing through that pipe in relatively short time, and there is a large volume of it. the principle is the same as how you can touch something hot very fast and not feel the heat, but if you touch it for a longer period of time you will.

will it be coilovers with a somewhat heavy spring rate? for drag racing you'd nearly be better off with the stock suspension as it allows plent of weight transfer over the rear wheels. that is where the awd of the gtr gets its advantage. it can run a slightly stiffer suspension and still get off the line better as the front wheels will pull it as well. to be honest though, i don't think you will know for sure until you actually race. the reason being that while you may be both experienced, how much experience do you got have with cars with the sort of power level you are going to be putting out?

just jap do the coilpack narness. it's over $200 though.

not quiet true. fuel pump won't do squat for power, but as you start doing other mods then you need a better fuel pump to be able to flow enough fuel to stop it from leaning out. as for the intercooler, they can make you get higher power than the stock one. the reason being that if you give the car a bit of a fang on the way to the dyno then the stock side mount cooler will already be suffering from heatsoak (therefor higher intake temps and less power) before it even goes on the dyno. a bigger intercooler will stay cooler for longer and therefor give you higher power on the dyno (as well as on the road). it doesn't take long for the stock cooler to heat up after you have given it a boot a few times, while in the colder days we are having at the moment a fmic will stay cool for much much longer.

both will be quick, but the gtr will have the traction off the line, and that makes a big difference. peak hp is only part of the equation. where each turbo makes it's power will play a big part too because if the gtt has less down low the gtr will pull away off the line even more. suspension setup will play a bit part as well. if the gtt has stiff suspension (for a track setup rather than drag) then the gtr will pull away off the line even more as it will have better traction. stiff suspension = poor traction. as a bit of an indication of things, i had/have an old motor magazine where they ran a v8 supercar, a porche 911 gt3 and a formula ford down a 1/4 mile (think it was setup on a runway). all 3 ran similar times (think the v8 supercar was a fraction quicker). the porsche and the formula ford both killed the v8 off the line (had one of the taller diffs in it, plus they are just hard to launch at the best of times). the acceleration times were a true indication of the power though. i think the v8 supercar was a full second quicker from 80 to 120, and the trap speed was much higher on the v8 (was very high for the time it ran)

the fact that the z32 ran like that and the r32 fixed it is evidence of which is better. there may have been an issue with that individual ecu that was causing the issue. as for the vct vs no vct, my mate played around with it on his rb25 and i think from memory the difference between it being on and off was only a few hp, but i'd have to find out for sure. he was playing around with it on the dyno one day trying to sort and issue out.

missus sister had one the model before that. was nice to drive, comfy, went well, nice interior (other than woodgrain). was getting a little bit on in life (160,000kms, so not that old) and started to get some issues. centre diff was going (apparently a semi common problem), and a few other minor issues that were going to be rather expensive to fix (about 2k). the mechanic told her that her best bet was to sell it off and get another car, LOL.

i have a kingchrome toolbox. and older version of this once http://www.kincrome.com.au/web/catalogue/s...artnumber=K7769 (mine doesn't have the automatic drawer retention system) it's great. solid as anything. didn't realise it was worth so much (missus bought it for me for xmas a few years back. think it cost her about $400 back then).

only because they are dirt cheap already. the resale on a late model camry is dead set terrible. you can pick up one that is only a few years old for $10,000. the resale is worse than a late model commodore or falcon.

if the oil is only a few mm above the full line when cold then that's ok, because once the car is running and the oil is circulating the oil will be at the full level. if you run the car then turn it off and then check the oil it will be at the full mark. once the car has been sitting for a while and the oil has had a chance to drain back down out of the head then it will be above full. as someone said above, the oil could've been spilt when filling it up after doing an oil change, or it could be from the rocker covers. generally though if the rocker covers are leaking then there will be oil down the exhaust side of the block, however not always. changing the rocker cover gaskets isn't that hard to do. personally i think that leaving the valley cover off is a good idea as it keeps the coilpacks a little bit cooler. may i ask why you want to replace the ignition wires? and what exactly do you mean by the ignition wires? as for replacing the o2 sensor, you can test the current one with a multimeter to see if it needs replacing or not.

there are 2 other possible causes of a slightly higher temp. 1: thermostat is buggered. usually diagnosable by the car taking longer to warm up than it should 2: water pump is old and worn. when it's worn it doesn't pump as much water as it should. if the car hasn't had it's 100,000kms service then i would get it done. never trust the odometer reading on imports. i'd say that 90% of them aren't the actual kms the engine has done. there is 1 other possible cause of higher engine temps but it is a bit more serious than those 2 so i left it off that list. the other possibility is a blown headgasket. i'd start with the above 2 first.

check the actual hazard light switch in the dash. i think that if it is unplugged or damaged then the indicators won't work.

+1 for what has been said above. people seem to think that skylines (and most imports for that matter) are some magical monster race engines that should be treated differently to any other engine, when in fact they aren't. you will find that in japan the original owners would've hopped straight in and driven off on much colder mornings than we get here. just keep it off boost until the temp needle has reached half way and has been there for a minute or 2.

the "tune" you have done on friday is going to consist of the workshop driving the car onto the dyno, doing a run or 2, possibly playing around with the boost level, doing another dyno run and then driving it off again. the stock ecu can't be tuned. and as has been said above, you are going to fall short of your goal of 250kw by about 50kw.

wow, none of us, or any of the sites we get our info from, had even considered this........ sorry that was a bit harsh. i think that if they do indeed announce a date at E3 then it will be pretty much the date that the game is released on. i think that sony knows that if they delay it much longer they will start losing fans (and sales), and if they announce a release date and then delay it again it will really hurt their brand image. i think that the only way it will get delayed again is if there is actually a serious issue...... but then i may also be a bit optimistic/dillusional......

yeah he told me you were having issues with the controller. that's a bugger about not being able to get the resistors on a weekend.

IAC = idle air control AAC = auxilary air control basically they regulate the amount of air going into the engine at idle and when things like the aircon are turned on to counter the extra load that they put on the engine. if they are sticky then they make be letting in the wrong amount of air so the car doesn't start properly. as for the tune being marginal, the part of the tune for warm start may be a bit ordinary. it may need a bit of fine tuning to get it a bit better. it may be good enough to start under most conditions, but certain conditions (different air temps, engine temps, etc) may be just different enough for the tune not to be good enough to start it without a bit of throttle

the tune is possibly marginal where sometimes it will start, other times it won't. that said it may be something like the IAC or AAC is sticking ever so slightly and not quite returning to where it should be to allow the car to start first go.

as above, it fits but won't look 100% due to slight different shaped headlights and grill

i had a 3.5" xforce cat back and 3" xforce cat on my 33 and never had any issues. it only had the 3" cannon but it wasn't loud at all. sound just like any other 33 i'd heard, except for my mates with a 3" jasma exhaust on it, which was quieter

but you will still get the problem of different scales having slightly different calibrations and margins of error.

a mate who had his windscreen replaced in his 33 once told me that they are the same as a locally sold nissan, but i'm not sure which it is though. not sure if it was a 300zx or a r31 or something like that. either way it ended up only costing him about $200.

unplug the injector loom (it's 1 plug, saves unplugging all 6 injectors) and i think that unplugging the crank angle sensor also does it as well.