mad082

i used to get about 16L/100kms out of my 33 driving semi sensibly. 17L/100kms driving a bit stupid. about 11L/100kms on the highway with a small amount of city driving. new o2 sensor did nothing to help my economy since round town it was high flooring it everytime i took off from intersections, etc. even if it wasn't 100% throttle it was still more than enough for the ecu to ignore the o2 sensor. also you may want to take notice of how many litres you are classing as a tank. some fuel gauges are a bit dodgy and might read empty with 10L more fuel left than someone else, so that is going to give you drastically different fuel figures.

+1 for giving it a twist, or getting some of those hose pliers. or get the biggest flat screwdriver you have and wedge it between the steel piece and the hose and try and lever it off (basically how the hose pliers would work)

not that i'm aware of

the last nfs game i bought was pro street. i hated it and haven't bought a nfs game since. and now that gt5 has been announced i probably won't be buying another one for a while

link to collectors edition http://www.gtplanet.net/gran-turismo-5-col...ives-announced/

november 2nd bitches!!!!!!!! also the collectors edition you will get a 1:43 scale r35 gtr and some bonus cars for in the game. not sure if you have to pre-order it or not

well by the time we get to work tomoro the release date should hopefully have been announced

the boost will start from 0, but since the gauge is a vaccum gauge as well as a boost gauge then it has to overcome the vaccum before it can create boost. the issue with this could be the fact that the turbo is blown, or the timing belt wasn't fitted properly. as for your rwc issues, post up what they said, that will allow us to help you. as for a turbo, for that price you will be looking at second hand unit fitted, or you may be able to get a bush bearing unit new for about that money, but then you will be looking at extra for fitting and possibly new oil and water lines which will put the cost over $1000.

should be where it is located on pretty much every car. in front of the radiator, a bit below the bonnet latch. if it isn't there, then get someone to beep it while you are looking around the engine bay

was it a 33? did it have a wing? there was 2 in town. 1 had an impul kit, the other had some hideous bodykit. haven't seen the latter recently. used to regularly lap

yes it will

+1 for poor spark. higher boost levels put more stress on the coils and spark plugs.

well the r33 injectors are 370cc and from what i am aware the r34 is the same size (not 100% sure on that though). if you are reaching the limit of the injectors with only 11psi then there is something going on. either your fuel pump is stuffed, fuel filter is blocked or the fuel pressure reg is stuffed. not sure what 20ms is in % of injector duty. generally about 250kw is the max for stock injectors.

that's pretty good. it's only just over 10L/100kms.

the slightly more expensive way, but it is much easier to check the codes, as well as other things is with a consult cable. google ecutalk or contact newkleer on here. will set you back about $70 but it is simple and you can use the software to monitor things like o2 sensor, afm voltage, etc anytime you are having an issue. i have one and i love it. rarely use it but when i do it makes life much easier.

as i said in the other thread, sure, spend 840k on getting the gtr all tricked up, but then make sure that the gtr is detuned so that it passes an emissions test and is 100% street legal and then race the 2 and see how well it does. then there is the factor of resale. i bet that after you spend 1 million dollars on a gtr you sure as hell can't sell it the next day for anything close to that. or get a factory warranty.

what turbo do you want to run? how much psi isn't really an indication of how much modding you will need to do. the stock turbo at 19psi wouldn't really need any modding at all (sdespite the fact that it would be a bad idea to run it at 19psi). a smaller hks turbo at 19psi would probably still be ok on 19psi as well. it is more a question of how much power you want to make as to how much you need to rebuild, and what sort of parts you need to use. generally 300kw is up around the limit of reliability of the stock internals. you can certainly run much higher than 300kw with stock internals, but how long it lasts is a totally different story. it may last 6 months, it may only last till you hit redline in first gear the first time you give it the beans.

+1 for taking the veyron, and besides, in the second race the veyron wins. and besides, unless you see a proper race, including launch, on a dry track, then i'm not going to pay too much attention to it. plus the fact that the GTR is FAR from standard. has probably had another 100k of mods done to it. sure it is still going to be cheaper than the veyron, but detune it to pass an emissions test and then race them and see how it does. and +1 for repost

SSS pulsar comes up as F 00H L00 102 as the direct fit. that was from their online catalogue otherwise look at getting a NGK one.

if your car has the stock ecu then there is very little that can be done on a dyno to tune the car. they can check the timing (which can be done without a dyno, all you need is a timing light), and they can check the air/fuel ratios to make sure things like your fuel pump is working properly, but other than that they can't really do anything to give you more power. on the other hand, if you have an aftermarket ecu then they can alter all the timing and fuel settings to get you more power.

get either 1. performance wise there won't be much difference, and as far as fitting goes, they aren't that hard to fit anyway

if you want a light that gets you better/further vision, ditch the crystal vision. for starters they aren't ADR approved, secondly, the more white/blue the light the duller it is. so if you go back to something like the phillips blue vision or even the power 2night bulbs you will get more light, however it won't be as ricey.

you obviously care enough about what we think to get so upset about it. your post above is evidence of that. so go and dry your eyes princess and come back and see us when you get out of school, LOL

as someone said above, a bigger radiator shouldn't alter temps, but a dodgy thermostat will. most cars generally run between about 80 to 95 degrees, depending on the type of car, etc. if you aren't seeing temps of at least 75 degrees, and it takes more than a few kms to reach operating temp, then i'd say that your thermostat isn't working properly and you should replace it. actually i just re-read what you wrote. you said that you are getting readings from ther thermostat housing. is that where the stock gauge got it's reading from? i know that on the rb25 that it gets its reading from the other water outlet and not the thermostat housing, as the thermostat housing is the water inlet (has the water coming out of the radiator that has been cooler, but hasn't been heated up by the engine yet). if the fj motor is setup like the rb25 (and i'm guessing the other rb motors) then that will be the cause of your lower water temp readings. you aren't reading what temp the engine is, but what temp the water is after it has been cooled by the radiator.

i'd start by either buying an aftermarket water temp gauge, or getting a consult cable. with the consult cable you can see what the temp is that the ecu seeing. it uses a different sensor to the dash. either of those options will allow you to see whether the problem is actually a temp issue or a sensor/gauge issue. if it does turn out to be a heating issue then it could be caused by the thermostat ot possibly the water pump. also i hope you aren't turning the car off while cruising along at 100kmh.