mad082

spot on. the air temp can even be enough to trigger it (due to the design of the afm, colder air registers as more air). when i was running 13psi i didn't have any issues during the day, but on a cold morning if i went down through a low gully where there was a pocket of cold air it would cut out if i was boosting it. happened to me on the way to put my car on the dyno one day so i wound the boost down by 1psi to make sure it wouldn't cut out. but when it kicks back in if you are in first or second gear it would start to fry the tyres, LOL.

does the road you are on when you let go of the wheel make a difference? for example if you are on a road and the car pulls to the right, if you turn onto a different street with a different camber to it will it still go right? some tyres will follow the road more than others. also the camber in the road can alter things. you would also assume that if there was an issue with the chassis they would've been able to pick that up in the wheel alignment. i think that a lot of panel beating places have alignment jigs, etc, so i'd start looking there. don't think too many performance shops or even steering/suspension places will have them. although i'd start by taking it back to the place that did the wheel alignment and take them for a drive to show them what it is doing.

the coils could still be breaking down a bit, even if they are taped. the only way to know for sure would be to try some coils that you know are good. also there is always a slight flat spot around 4500rpm due to the vct switching there

if you are only running stock boost then the turbo SHOULD be fine, but that said, if the turbo was given a hard time by the previous owner it could let go at any point, but it is unlikely.

didly squat all. what will differ between exhausts though (talking cat back here) is the amount of noise attenuation that the mufflers have (how quiet they make the car). a big oval muffler will make the car quieter than some cannon from supercheap. unless they really cock up the piping when bending it then pretty much all 3" exhausts will flow pretty much the same. when you start talking about cat converters and dump pipes then things can change a bit.

i know a tuner in gympie who will do it. did the pfc in his brother's old r32

to do the r33 you either have to use a z32 ecu or r32 ecu (can't put a nistune into a r33 ecu). the r32 ecu won't allow the use of vct, however the power difference with and without it is minimal. when gary was playing around with his ceffy (has rb25det in it) he found that there was only a few hp difference between having it on and off. his workshop is called gympie roadworthy and mechanical centre. phone number is 54829477. tell him marc sent you..... on second thoughts, maybe don't tell him that. he might double the price, LOL.

what sort of specs do you want? power? acceleration times? power = 147kw at the flywheel for the r33 and r34. 114kw for the r32 with the rb20 and 132kw for the r32 with the rb25 acceleration times = about the same as a commodore.

yeah that is the thing. to get the rb to the level of a stock sr20ve is going to take a decent amount of work (not massive amounts, but not just exhaust and air filter). the sr20ve might be a bit more highly strung to start with, but unless you spend thousands and thousands on either motor to get them to their absolute limit you won't know which motor will give the best results. so for a minimal budget the sr20ve is going to be the better base to start with, since it already has 35kw more to start with.

at this time of year my 33 would take about 3kms of driving to get the needle to get close to being about halfway, but before it got fully up to temp was probably about 5km, but it is a bit hilly here. if it was flat i'd probably say about 7 or 8km. if you drove 50kms and the engine didn't overheat and the bottom hose was cooler than the top hose then you should be fine. if you are really worried then you could always spend a bit of money getting a consult cable (pm newkleer on here) and then hook up a laptop to see what the actual temp of the coolant coming out of the block is. i have one of them and they are great. i was wanting to check the temp in my pulsar and used the consult cable and it showed that it was all good. on a warm day giving it a bit of stick it was sitting on 82 degrees. i wish i'd had the cable when i was having temp issues with my 33.

not really sure on whether it would work or not, but i'll say it anyway. couldn't you just make a mould of it now and then just make plugs of it out of fibreglass (possibly adding a tint to the gel coat to make it black) and once you pull it out of the mold simply put the carbon cloth over the top. if you were planning on make more of them then that's how i'd do it. that way you don't have to be very fussy about how the fibrglass is laid down, etc as it is hidden by the gel coat, and you also would have a smooth layer to put the carbon cloth over. i was also interested to see that you put the fibreglass on in big sheets at a time. my father in law used to work making fibreglass mudguards, etc for ford F trucks and they used to cut the fibrglass up into smaller pieces, dip them in the resin and then lay them on the gel coat. i think this was because they would just do the whole thing in 1 hit, get it a few layers thick and then let it set. they also used to have it bombed up with hardener so it would go off pretty quick. they used to have it weak so it took longer to go off but then the rep from the company they got all the fibreglass and stuff from came through one day while they were doing a set and told them to make it stronger. he mixed it all up for them and helped them do it all and they turned out good and that's how they've done it ever since.

sell the crashbox, and the wii games you don't want and buy a ps3. that way you still have a console for drunken laughs as well as the ps3. sure you might have to throw in a bit extra coin to get it, but it'll be worth it

i thought the same thing but wasn't going to say anything, lol

good old axle tramp. can be caused by tyre compound/grip, or suspension or both.

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...id=12882FBFA166 $4999, but there were a few others. that was just searching SSS up to $5000 in qld (so i know that doesn't help you, but it prooves my point). if you look at n14 Q's or Ti's some of them also had the sr20, just not quite as well spec'd

3" turbo back exhaust, fmic and 12psi will see you up around 170 to 180kw easily. as for the exhaust being noisey, if you find that you want it quieter after putting on the 3" system, invest in a decent oval muffler. they make things much quieter than cannon does.

yeah it was pretty random wasn't it, LOL

N14 or N15 SSS pulsar. natro sr20 goodness. will be at the upper limit of your price range

also the coolant on the engine side of the thermostat will still be warming up, so that would sort of negate the cooling effect of the water from the radiator. plus the radiator core itself has to be heated up before the coolant in the lower hose feels warm. as long as the radiator core itself is still cold at the bottom the coolant coming out of the core is going to be cool. i would suggest going for a drive around the block a few times (with the heater off) to get the car up to temp. once the needle is half way you'll still probably want to drive another 2 or 3km to make sure it is fully up to temp and then pull over and feel the lower hose.

turn the car over. whichever way the pulley turns will tell you which fan to put on.

and if you have the heater on it takes even longer for it to heat up as it is heating up more coolant which also gets cooled a small amount when it passes through the heat unit

there is a box mounted to the back of the strut tower (or somewhere around there) that it goes to. it has a few wires coming out of it.

LOL, nah. it's jeffery

you have an NA skyline. anything with a big outlet is going to make the car noisier and drone more. that one like you posted from ebay won't be that bad though as it is only the tips that are 3". where it passes through the muffler is still only 2.5" so it won't be that bad, but if the muffler has poor quality packing then it may still sound bad. a full custom made 2.5" cat back exhaust with a good rear muffler and centre resonator should only set you back about $500 and will give a good note while not being too loud. as for the cannon with the silencer, yes they cut down the drone, but they do also look stupid with the silencer in them. just get a good quality 2.5" oval muffler and then find a nice tip for it (and not one of those ones from supercheap, etc that are held on by a screw/clamp).

the laws of thermodynamics (i think that is the right word, lol) explains that one. hot liquid, as with air, rises. so as the engine heats up, even with the thermostat closed, the hot coolant will rise and come out of the top hose a bit. this also means that the car keeps circulating coolant even after you turn off the car, at least until the thermostat closes. even after that you will still get a small amount of circulation. also i had a look in the workshop manual in the section about replacing the coolant that once you are finished refilling it you run the engine until the gauge is half way (up to normal operating temp) and then you feel the lower hose. if it is warm then things are working properly. the thing to remember though is that from when the gauge gets to half way and when the car is actually full up to temp are 2 different things. the gauge can get to about normal about 10 to 15 degrees before the thermostat opens.