mad082

what gave it away? the fact that it is called "bioDIESEL"? lol, sorry mate, couldn't resist throwing that in. not having a go at you, more at the OP wondering out putting it into a car without realising that it is a diesel replacement and not a petrol replacement.

those dent doctors normally charge per dent, so it could add up pretty quickly. i wouldn't be suprised if it ran into the thousands (since there is 40 dents, so even at $20 a dent is going to be $800, but i think they usually charge a hell of a lot more than that).

conzult does a bit more than ecutalk does. i'm not sure whether it's conzult or datascan that allows you to switch off cylinders 1 at a time, enter the ecu into base timing/idle mode and even temporarily play around with the timing and fuel settings

totally agree, LOL

will he need them just to change the front bar though? i don't think he does as the front bar is flat at the top and shouldn't make a scrap of difference to the headlights. if he wants to put the whole s2 front end on then obviously he will, but if he only wants to put the front bar on then he shouldn't need them, or it wouldn't be hard to make it fit without them

there is another thread on here about it here it is http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Sk...es-t322410.html

if you want it to be loud and look drift spec and jdm and <insert any other ricer term> then go for the cannon. if you want a muffler that gives a good note but isn't annoying as hell to drive with, then get a 2.5" oval muffler.

sell it and buy a n15 SSS pulsar. natro sr20, looks decent with a bodykit on it and can be modded easily and cheaply as there are a wide range of parts available for them. just don't put some stupidly loud exhaust on it because then you will just look like a dick (which you probably already do in your excel with twin 3" cannons). look i am glad that you are honest and haven't thrown a tantrum yet like most 17 year olds would've after recieving so much crap in here, but lets be honest, you have bought an excel and are planning on ricing it up. 95% of the peoples heads you will be turning will be thinking you are a tool. 4% of the heads you will be turning will be police doing a u-turn to come and fine you for having a stupidly loud exhaust, and if you are lucky, the last 1% will think that it actually looks good.

pulled out a 1.15.8 around tsukuba wet in the legacy wagon last night. then the missus had a go. best she got was a 1.25 but it was only about her second time playing it. she's better at mario kart, LOL

the issue i've had in the past with cheap trainers i've sold (and it's the reason why i never bothered getting any more) was that even though they were a magnetic trainer they still made a bit of noise (generally you only get the tyre noise) and also they didn't suit every bike. i had some mtb's that wouldn't sit on the roller properly and they would have the tyre rubbing on the plastic housing. and due to the design you couldn't do anything to alter the location of the wheel.

as far as pricing goes, i can't even buy them for that, so they are certainly well priced as for quality, if they are for occasional use then go for it. if you plan on using it a fair bit then get a better one. the ones i recommend (and use myself) are the TACX brand ones. they do good quality ones. their entry level one is about $300 (that's what i use). their top model one can be hooked into a tv and interactive dvd's play so you can feel like you are riding somewhere, and it goes faster if you go faster. you can also race other people. but those ones are well into the thousands of dollars. the higher end TACX trainers (called the satori) without the interactive software are used by many of the pro teams (such as Omega Pharma-Lotto - formerly silence lotto, astana and rabobank).

if you aren't seeing it show up, that shows just how short of a period of time it is at that amount of boost for.

read through what jonno has posted, it will tell you all you need to know. to give you the general idea of it though start with exhaust. full turbo back. don't bother doing much until that is done. then get a better quality panel filter or a pod in an enclosure then up the boost to about 10psi the front mount intercooler and raise the boost to about 12psi.

could be bad batch of fuel, blocked fuel filter, dirty injectors, etc. the list of possible causes are long. or it could simply be that the tune was dodgy. just because the tune was done by a "reputable" tuner doesn't mean it was good. if you spend enough time looking you will find horror stories from every tuning workshop around. some just have more bad stories than others. i know of tuning shops who have charged big money for tunes so bad that the car wasn't even able to be driven home. they claimed that the wiring was done wrong, depsite the fact that the car had been running with that setup for about 1 year and had only had a bigger turbo fitted and that's what it needed the tune for.

i had r34 gt-t wheels on my magna. offset was slightly different but they did the job something else to take into consideration is that the hub centre holes may be different, so you may need egg rings to make them site on the hub properly so that the wheels studs aren't taking all of the load. in the case of the r34 wheels i had to actually make the hole bigger so it would fit over the hub. a mate of mine who put r33 wheels onto his hilux had to do the same

yeah that's why i picked it. and braking is even more delicate. i only did 3 laps of the wet track last night to get that time. first lap i still had driving aids on (realised half way round so thought i might as well finish the lap). that was a low 1.17. then my first lap without driving aids was a 1.16.8 and i finished it half on the grass, so the next lap i was half a car length behind my ghost at the first corner due to the slower speed across the line. i didn't catch my ghost until the last corner. next i think i might have a go in something rwd around the tsukuba wet track. something like a stock 350z.

when i was tuning my mates 33 his tps voltage went all the way up to 4.1v

+1. i've driven a skyline that had really blue lights as the high beams. it was terrible. while they lit up a decent distance, trying to actually make anything out was hard. low beams were actually better for seeing off into the distance than the highbeams were. once you go above 4000k in a conventional bulb you start losing light. my advice is to stop being a ricer and get lights that allow you to actually see where you are going

+1 for being s2. the tps is the first thing i looked at

yeah they are the same thing.

tsukuba wet track, stock subaru legacy 3.0gt wagon (when you go into the subaru new cars it is the second car). absolutely stock. no mods, no race tyres, not even an oil change. 1.16.438

you can keep that one. so far my best is a 1.46.1 on el capitan on r3 tyres. i could easily get into the 1.44's (since i had an off on my fastest lap, but on another lap i was down 1.7 seconds down at the second split and got back up to 0.6 seconds down at the finish, and other laps i have been 0.5 seconds quicker at the first split but lose it going over the mountain), but i don't know how much better than that i could do. so if i could string a decent lap together i could get to a mid 1.44. certainly don't think i could get another 4 seconds out if it without changing the oil. even then i doubt i'd get 4 seconds worth. also only got a 1.54 on street tyres round there. next track i'm going to play will be leguna seca or tokyo r246 or something like that. or even the seattle city course. i like that one. or midfield raceway. so what's that then? you won tsukuba, i won fuji in the nike, you get the dc5 (was about to go have another go with the integra but it appears i have lost use of the tv to the missus). you can have el capitan cause i quit on that course. so it's 3:1. or 4:1 since i will gladly give you the ring without even trying. so what track and car next?

Oh wait, I wasn't doing those times on el capiton. They were still on fuji 2005 gt. I did 1 lap of el capiton on the street tyres and it was a 1.58 but it was a super shit lap. I don't like that track that.

Ok, was just about to turn off the sony after I finished the lap I was on. Was the m3 on the stock sports tyres (not the r3 tyres) and got a 1.43.6. Only 2 small mistakes. Could probably get a low 1.43 out of them. Was super happy with that effort though. And my 1.38.2 lap was only my 3rd lap on the race tyres. First lap was a 1.39.8 then a 1.38.8 then the 1.38.2

Ok, off for good this time, lol