mad082

make sure you have a full turbo back exhaust and you can run 12psi just fine. the ecu will manage it fine without going a nistune, although a nistune would make it better. would be wise to also get a front mount intercooler as well if you don't already have one.

oh i forgot to put something in my post, so i'll quote it to fix it up

could be an issue with the power supply to it or the earth. you could always pull the dash out to make sure the tha plug in the back of the cluster isn't a bit loose.

looks like there will be a night version of the 'ring'. not sure if the 24 hour race will have a day/night transition though. would be good if they did though. the le mans 24 hour game had a day/night transition in the endurance races

if it was me this is how i would work out what to do "hmmm, i could spend... lets say 10k, building a super powerful rb25 (or 25/30) that might end up making 200kw that is a pig to drive on the street, OR i could sell the natro car, buy a turbo'd one for about the same money and have a stronger gearbox, LSD, bigger brakes, etc, and then spend about 6k and have up towards 300kw that is much more street friendly." i know which way i'd be going

you won't get the z32 ecu to work properly without a piggyback computer of some sort (or full ecu) to change the settings. the z32 is the same size as the rb20 and rb25 afms and works between the same voltages but reads different voltages at different airflow rates to the stock afm. you can use the rb20 afm on a series 1 rb25, but to use it on a series 2 you need to play around with the wiring (not very hard, think it is only 1 wire different)

a lot of people get a bit confused when it comes to a big turbo and small turbo running the same pressure. they seem to ignore one of the key things that can determine a turbo's performance. the exhaust housing. if you take 2 turbos with the same size compressor housing and alter the size of the exhaust housing you will be able to make different power levels. the one with the larger exhaust housing will make more power, but at higher rpm. the smaller housing turbo will have better response yet make less power at higher revs due to the fact that the smaller housing will become a restriction at higher rpm. this is lifted straight from the garret website my point is that it isn't just all about how big the compressor is that determines how much power you will get from a turbo. the exhaust housing plays a very big part in it too, because you could have the compressor housing off a truck turbo on your car, but if the exhaust housing is only a small T2 unit off a 1.5L engine then you won't make much power.

could be the cold start valve playing up or the IAC/AAC valves

yeah the aerial switch is above your left knee. what year model is the car? manual or auto? could it be the traction/slip button?

because an sr20 is a better motor than the rb20. and a 2.2L stroker sr20 is even better again, LOL there are a few sr20 powered r32's and also cefiros. not sure how many are actually on this forum, but i have seen some on here before.

we were trying to be constructive by telling him that if he wants to build a race car that will be competitive then he is using the wrong engine. this isn't just some poser car he is building, it is a race car, and the whole idea of racing is to win, or at least do the best you can. no point building some massively expensive engine if for a fraction of the price you could build a lighter engine that puts out much more power.

that doesn't mean it's the right/best choice, LOL

yeah as kenny said, just join the qld section of this forum.

oh ok, i'm probably thinking of the conzult or datascan

another thing about the getting fuel at night thing, just how much do you think a few thousand litres of liquid in a tank underground is going to be affected by the heat of the day? i'd be guessing that at absolute most it varies by 1%. secondly, while the fuel is more dense when cold, your fuel tank will have contracted a bit due to the cold (sweet F all, but the difference in the fuel from day to night is sweet F all as well so might as well mention it) so you will fit less fuel into the tank, so it would even out. and as above, if you pay by card then you are infact paying that extra 2c. if you really want to stick it to the fuel companies, limit your use. wind the boost down on your car (will save you fuel at high throttle). don't drive around because you are bored. if you drive past a servo everyday but don't fill up then and then make a special trip to go get fuel, change your habbits so you get fuel on a trip when you are going past, or if you drive past a servo all the time yet use a servo that you have to go out of your way to get to because it is the tiniest amount cheaper but takes you 10 or 15 mins to get there, you are probably spending more to drive to the cheaper servo than you are saving. here's an example of what i'm talking about. for this example i'll use the fuel economy of 10L/100kms as it is the easiest. and lets say that fuel costs $1.45/L, and you fill up with 50L. ok so at 10L/100kms you are using doing 10km/L. so that means that if you drive 1km out of your way to get fuel you are spending 14.5 cents, so once you take into account that you have to then do the return trip, that's 29c per km out of your way. so you have to be getting fuel at about 0.6 of a cent cheaper per km you drive out of your way, based off those figures. so if you drive 5kms you would have to be saving 3c a litre. if you get 13L/100kms then it jumps up to about 38 cents per km and you would have to be saving 0.75 centrs per litre, and 5kms out of your way would need to save you nearly 4c a litre.

hey peter i had a bit of an idea the other day. with the performance tests that you can do, could you set it up so that when you hit the start button, instead of it having a count down timer or whatever it does (been a while since i used it), could you just have it go into a prestage type thing and then have the timer start as soon as you start moving? so just have the timer triggered by the speedo

it really comes down to the choice of mufflers. simply make sure it has a big centre resonator and a big oval rear muffler (no cannons). it may be worth looking at a twin system something like a twin 2.5 or 2.75" system may be another option to look at (or even twin 3"), as you will be able to get muffler with good noise attenuation in those sizes.

the first question has to be asked, how do you drive and what mods do you have? that can rule out pretty much all other things depending on the answer. if you have mods like a bigger turbo, etc then you will always use more fuel if you like to give it the beans often. also if you just drive lots of short trips and spend a fair bit of time with your foot down on boost. if you do like to boost it often then you aren't too far out of the range of what you can expect, however if you do lots of steady driving and don't spend much time in traffic slowing down and speeding up then that is a bit high and the o2 sensor is probably the main cause. this can be done with a multimeter. do a search to find out how. how long does the car take to warm up (for the needle to come up to half way)? it should come up to temp within about 5 mins of driving (or 3 or 4kms). if it is taking much longer to do this then your thermostat needs replacing and that will get you better economy because you won't be on cold start enrichment so much. coming into the colder months this can become more of an issue as you can actually get to a point where the car pretty much never warms up so you use much more fuel.

the engine at that revs while driving is probably creating a vibration that, while you might not feel it, is causing something, such as a heatshield to rattle.

depends on how much you are retarding the timing by. only backing it off by 1 or 2 degrees won't alter the EGT's by much. if you take off 10 or 15 degrees than you will.

obviously a new o2 sensor will give you better fuel eceonmy if the old one is shit, and if you do lots of light throttle driving. if you floor it everywhere it won't help at all

actually it is a 5 speed, 1st and reverse are missing though. however i think some 5 speed ones don't have 5 gears (only 4) as they simply lock the input and output shafts togerther to get the 1:1 ratio. not 100% sure about that though

best i've gotten was 6.5L/100kms from the pulsar (natro sr20). that was about 380kms from half a tank, or a theorhetical 770kms if i ran the thing dry, but it is only a 50L tank. generally average around 11L/100kms, but would be better if i didn't do so many short trips

what sort of fmic is it? does it use the stock piping?

yes but you are the one who is passing on information that is irrelevant in this case as the stock gts-t dump pipe is rubbish and the information you gave was refering to the GTR dump pipe. if you try to run 1.4bar of boost through a stock gts-t dump pipe then you will have massive overboosting problems. also the gtr dump pipes flow less gas per dump pipe than the gts't since the gts-t only has 1 of them while the gtr has 2.