mad082

no. like any car they are only susceptible to damage when being jump started by idiots who don't take care when doing it and might do something stupid like take the leads off one car (leaving the other car still connected) and then hold the leads in 1 hand and let the clamps touch so they arc out and ingore the zapping noise that is happening as the clamps weld themselves together and start frying the electrics. i've personally jump started dozens of fuel injected cars from other fuel injected cars and never had an issue. the whole thing about it causing damage is a very rare occurance. i don't persoanlly know of anyone who has ever had an issue with the ecu failing or anything like that because of jump starting.

i think the jaycar systems are just a signal bender. they alter the signal coming in from the AFM to trick the ecu into thinking that less air is entering the engine so it puts in less fuel. the downside is that you can't independantly alter the timing or the fuel at different revs or throttle loads. they are ok as a cheap basic alternative, but won't give you the gains of a fully programable ecu

turbo back exhaust and nistune. or turbo back exhaust and whetever else you want to do. just do the turbo back exhaust before you start adding wank factor stuff (or raise the boost). there is nothing worse than seeing a blinged out skyline with a stock exhaust on it.

should be able to just connect the power wires to see if it turns on

as above, they are cheap to get installed

i was going to say the same thing, but then i saw that he said there was metal filings in the oil

welcome to a few days ago http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Im...et-t319919.html

wonder if there are any for android, cause i had my car on the dyno about 2 weeks ago so would be interesting to compare

no wuckers. can also get proper rollers too that you have to balance on. they are hard to use.

print off my post and show him, lol. there are 2 ways to tell a good lube from a bad lube. 1: the smell. this isn't always accurate but it is most of the time. if the lube has a strong smell that reminds you of metho or fuel then there is a good chance that it isn't a good lube as it will more than likely wash away and of the original grease as well as any of the previous lube that has built up a protective layer. 2: the feel of the lube. tip a small amount onto your finger then rub your thumb against it firmly. if it is a good lube it should stay slippery for a while. a crap lube won't last that long before you start to feel friction again. i have extremely rough, dry hands (they are actually rougher than my feet) so i don't have much trouble drying out the crappier lubes. if you have soft hands then you may find most of the lubes stay slippery for a while. out of all the lubes that i have here, the best 2 performers are finishline krytech at number 2, shimano wet lube at number 1. however these were both beaten by a lube that you buy from repco and places like that called lubex. it is a general purpose lube but the down side is that it comes in an aerosol can. doing the friction test it performs much better than the proper chain lubes, but it is still beaten by good old engine oil. i've got a general rule that if you read the bottle and there is no mention of using it on cables, then don't use it. in my experience the ones that are purely a chain lube are generally terrible. the reason being that a cable creates more friction than a chain does, so if the lube can't cope with the friction of a cable then i wouldn't be putting it on my chain either. there is a downside to the lubex and the engine oil (more so with theoil than the lubex). this is that they aren't quite as thin as the proper chain lube, so don't get into the chain rollers quite as well.

i'd fkn want to, LOL. as of the 6th of july i will have been in the bike industry for 10 years.

ok, first of all, 90% of the stuff chain lubes advertise is crap. some chain lubes out there do more harm than good. that said, use any chain lube, or even sewing machine oil or old engine oil. it will all work well. just don't use too much. and don't use wd40 as that will dry the chain out (washes out the oil). personally i like the triflow stuff, finishline or the rock n roll stuff. secondly, you are actually best off not lubing a new chain as they have packing grease inside them and lube washes it out. thirdly, the chain is at it's best when brand new. it has very little sideways play in it and that is what makes it shift well. a chain with lots of flex in it won't shift as well as a new chain because when the derailleur moves the chain just flexes and stays where it is rather than being rigid and moving with the derailleur. gears not being smooth when new means that the gears weren't adjusted properly to start with and as the cables have settled into their housings, etc, they have moved into a better adjustment. the teeth being sharp would mean that it would pick the chain up better than when they are worn and rounded off.

ok, to answer most or all of your questions... no nix are different to skins. they are just lycra that is tight, but not tight like compression skins, and they have a foam padded chamois in the crutch. i have run toe straps as well as clip pedals and platforms. which is best for you simply comes down to riding style. if you ride hard then go clip pedals. if you just ride at a steady pace then stick with flats, or you could go toe clips. when i have run toe straps i didn't use the strap, just the toe clip so that it was easier to get your foot in and out. i didn't find that they did much. i also found that most of the toe clips on the market weren't long enough for my big feet (i'm a size 12) and i couldn't get quite comfortable on the pedals (couldn't get my foot far enough foward on the pedal). how much of a difference clip pedals make comes down to riding style. i know people who say that it makes them so much faster. for me though it doesn't make that much difference and i actually find that what i gain in the pulling up motion i lose in the pushing down motion as i'm subconciously concentrating on pulling up and not as much on pushing down. also i've had a few near misses where i couldn't get unclipped and nearly fallen into the path of oncoming traffic. so for me i probably gain maybe 10% with them, if that. not really worth the $200 outlay for pedals and shoes, LOL. on the other hand i know a few top leval bmx guys who only race on platform pedals, and others that will train with platforms and race with clips. so as i said, it varies greatly from person to person. the biggest advantage with platforms is that you can move your foot position as much as you like, so as your legs get tired you will still be comfortable, and it means that you can just jump on and off your bike as you please. and if you are stopped at an intersection, when you can go you can just go full speed straight away. no taking a rotation or 2 to get clipped in properly. the front gears are the hardest to get adjusted because there is such a big difference in both distance between the cogs (relatively big for what it is) as well as the size difference in the cogs. something to keep in mind is that if you are pedalling slowly and putting lots of powertorque through the cranks then it won't shift as well as if you are spinning a bit faster with less torque on the cranks. this applies to both changing up and down. something you can try though is on the left hand shifter than controls the front 3 gears, where the cable comes out of the shifter there will be a barrel adjuster. twist it a turn or 2 out (i think that is anti-clockwise). that will tighten the cable a bit and make it shift up a bit better, but this comes at the expense of how it shifts down. the biggest problem with most mtb front derailleurs (even a lot of the expensive stuff) is that they don't have a trimming function. generally this is only on the 2 speed shifters and not 3 speed ones (even on road bikes). this allows you to do a half shift which means that when you change down to the smaller cogs, if the chain starts to rub on the derailleur due to the change in the angle you can do the half click to get it to stop rubbing. but most triple setups don't have this so it means that sometimes in order to get the gears working properly you have to put up with the chain rubbing on the front derailleur in some gears. that said you aren't really supposed to use certain ratios together. ideally you should only use the smallest cog at the front with the first 3 gears or so, the middle cog at the front with gears 3, 4 and 5, and then top gear at the front with gears 5, 6 and 7, or what ever corresponds to 3 equal groups for the number of gears you have at the back. running like this decreases chain stretch and chain slack as you keep the chain in a straighter line and you will get longer life out of the chain before shifting gets sloppy. the issue you are having is made slightly worse on cheaper bikes because the chainrings don't have as good pick up notches in them. if you look at the teeth of the middle and big chainrings you will see that some of them are cut at different angles, and some may even have cuts in the side of them at the base. this is to help pick the chain up when shifting up gears. the better cranks have much more defined sections on them as well as some special pins to help pick up the chain. some teeth will be smaller and this is to help the chain drop off the chainring when shifting down. as for warranty, you get 12 months on it, so don't worry there. and yes the taos is 1 sexy bike. i still haven't taken it for a ride yet. might do that when i drop cherie off at work on friday since it is a public holiday here. had a few people looking at it. would be nice to sell it. round here the apollo name doesn't have much of a following in the higher end market because the name doesn't have the prestige of some of the others. but i like them. i would buy an apollo over a hell of a lot of other brands on the market.

i could recommend a few seat that i like, but you won't like the price, LOL. first off try altering the angle of the seat. go for a ride and work out what you don't like about the seat. then try altering the angle of the seat. the seats on the 2010 apollos are much better than the 09 models (which weren't that bad either) so you shouldn't have much trouble find a setup that is more comfortable. other than that, try riding faster. push yourself more. it will take your mind off the seat, LOL. another thing would be to get yourself a pair of nix. the basic $40 netti ones will be all you need. then if you are going for a ride just wear them under your shorts. they will add a bit of padding.

yeah there are some cheap ones round. the ones i prefer to sell are a bit more. up around $200 for you. same as what i use at home. sold heaps and never had any problems. sold some cheaper ones and had problems. the cheaper ones i can get are down around the $100 to $150 mark i think. will suss it out and let ya know.

well you could simply unplug it. just don't plan on having a very good idle or being able to rev the car above about 2500rpm. other than that, expect to pay a few thousand as said above. maybe you should tell us why you need to get rid of it so we can give you other suggestions. if you are hitting the airflow cut (rich and retard) then something like a nistune will solve the problem, but will still cost you up to around $1000

there is pretty much no difference between the s1 ecu and s2 ecu, so that won't be the issue.

how would you like to find out how to beat a spammer over the head with a hammer? you can be the test subject for the demonstration

you won't really get rims that are much lighter than what are on there. at least not without spending big bucks. a wheel similar to what is currently on the bike will cost you about $60 or $70 each at least (that is just the wheel, so you would need to add the cost of a disc rotor on top of that - only about $20 or $30, and for the rear also add the cost of a cassette which is about $30 or $40 depending on the shop).

14:1 is leaner than 12:1. it is measure in parts of air to parts of fuel. so 14:1 is 14 parts air to 1 part fuel. 12:1 has 2 parts less air for the same amount of fuel. between 14 and 15:1 is the sort of range it should be when on cruise when the ecu is in closed loop mode and using the stock narrow band o2 sensor. once you give it the beans it will go to open loop and should drop down to around 11 or 12:1 on a stock ecu. if you are at 12:1 then you aren't doing too bad and the power gain by going leaner wouldn't be that much.

if you don't have vct then you could just use a rb20 ecu. that will save you having to change any wiring as it will plug straight in.

not quite half of the cost of petrol is tax. there is the 38c excise (or whatever it is), plus GST, so if fuel is $1.32 litre, then you are paying 50c in tax. if fuel goes up to $1.65 then there is only an extra 3c in tax. but you have NO chance in hell of ever getting the tax on fuel drastically changed. and if you did, the government would only tax something else more in order to be able to still have the same amount of income, or they would make more things a users pays system to compensate for the loss of money.

all the carline stores are individually owned (as i'm sure you are aware) so how they charge will simply come down to how much markup the individual owner wants to put on. secondly, to the OP, you are very lucky to find a workshop that will allow you to work on your car. i know that in my business i don't let anyone work on their own stuff with my tools, and i'm not dealing in anything big. if i was dealing with cars i sure as hell wouldn't let customers work on their own car because of insurance.

yeah pull off the gtr badge. your car isn't a gtr. i don't care if you have a rb26 in it.

ok, if you want to go a bit faster then it is all about tyres as the guys said. if you are going to be doing purely on road/footpath then go a skinny slick (between a 1" and 1.5" wide tyre). if you are going to be doing a small amount of off road (like through parks) then go something like a 1.5 or 1.75 touring tyre. this way you will still have some tread on the tyre to give you grip. if you are going to be doing a fair bit of onroad but a fair bit of offroad as well then just stick with the stock tyres. as far as upgrading the bike goes, don't bother. it will cost you more than it's worth. for example to upgrade the forks to an entry level better quality fork will set you back about $250. gears will set you back nearly as much. a spare set of wheels all fitted out with spare rotors, cassette, tyres will also set you back about that sort of money, but more than likely a bit more. it's a pity you live over the otherside of the country because otherwise i could hook you up with a 2009 model summit for about $250 which you could use to get a spair set of wheels, etc off and then just either keep the rest as spares or sell them off. the option i would suggest would be that if you do get into offroad stuff but want a cheap hack to ride on the road, then look into a flat bar road bike. a decent one will set you back under $1000 and be a fair bit cheaper than a proper road bike. rowan, the gearing on that redline fixy is 36/16, but replacement chainrings are only $25 for those and go all the way up to 45t, but you'd also need a new chain for it, but that isn't much either. as for the deep v rims, they probably aren't much deeper than the velocity b43's.