mad082

hard to tell these days. the guy i bought my 180sx off thought that the sound of the bov was the soundof the wastegate

don't use 5th at 60kmh. as for what it is, it could be 1 or many things. could be something loose in the boot (jack, etc) or something down one of the side passages of the boot. it could be the diff, it could be a diff mount, etc. the list is rather long of possible causes.

nissan if you want a top notch one. or if you want to save about $50 go a NGK one. can get them through most car parts places (autobarn, repco, etc). if they are a bit useless and tell you that they can't get them for a skyline then order one for a SSS pulsar. they are the same part number.

temp sensor can be disconnected. they are only to warn you of an overheating cat. all they do is trigger a light on the dash and they often malfunction causing the light tom come on when you hit a bump. the ecu doesn't use them for anything.

this looks good

and that is where you differ from most people, LOL. most of them won't warm up any car, but as soon as they get a skyline, ooo better let it idle for 10 mins before driving it. also i think that letting the car idle up to warm before driving it is pretty silly as well. a car takes much longer to warm up when just sitting idling than it does when actually driving, so you could argue that you are doing more harm than good by letting it warm up by idling it, as the engine spends more time cold.

ok, a few things. first of all, i can't hear any loud spooling noise. just sounds like a normal intake noise for a skyline. secondly, the rb20 is a laggy engine, even in stock form. unlike the rb25, which will make full boost by about 2500rpm, the rb20 on the stock turbo won't make full boost until about 3500rpm. below that rpm you will have a somewhat slow car, and if you were up against a natro car, until you get above about 3500-4000rpm they will pull away quite easily. also, i'm not sure if the r32 ecu has it, but if you are running up to 16psi on the stock ecu, you may be hitting an airflow pretection which is limiting the power you will make. may also be worth checking the timing as if it is retarded you won't have as much down low. i think your best bet would be to stick it on a dyno. that way you can properly hear any noises and also see what sort of power it makes as that will be the true indicator of any problems. oh and the flutter isn't caused by the wastegate. that is either the bov, or if you don't have one, compressor surge, which is the air in the intercooler piping going back out through the compressor wheel of the turbo and slowing it down so you end up with more lag.

cut and polish works well on the lights to get rid of the hazyness too apparently. i just used meguires scratch-x and a woolen buffing pad on a drill and it only takes a few seconds per light. takes longer to get the drill sorted and find an extention lead that it does to actually clean the lights. as for the hairdryer trick, try to get as much of the water out of the light first with cotton buds or something like that as that will make the process much quicker.

your turbo will be getting oil through it all the time, so being warm before boosting has less to do with that than it does with the amount of stress you put on the engine when cold. you don't want to be stressing the engine when everything is cold. but that said, driving them normally when cold isn't a bad thing. people seem to think that the rb motors are some magical super performance motor that is different to other engines as far as warmup and cool down is concerned (especially warm up). unless the engine has been rebuilt then it is just like any other car out there. you can hop in it and drive away straight after you start it (not talking about letting the clutch out as soon as the thing starts, but hop in, start, let it idle for a few seconds then drive off normally). it doesn't take very long for the oil to start circulating, and not much longer again for it to have finished circulating. if you have the car parked in a driveway or garage, by the time you have reversed out onto the road everything will be fine. and since very few driveways require much throttle to get out of, the wear on the engine compared to sitting there idling will be minute. as for turbo timers, unless you boost it up until the point you pull into the driveway (in which case just pulling up and letting the car sit with the turbo timer on isn't a good thing to do, not just from an engine point of view, but also brakes, etc) , there isn't really any point using it. if you drive sensible the whole way home then there is no point. a car runs cooler when moving than it does sitting stationary. if you do give it the beans on the drive home, just take it easy for the last km or so and everything will have cooled down more than letting the car sit there for 30 seconds idling with little airflow through the radiator.

if you are getting moisture into the light then it has a leak (or has had a leak in the past) and not all the water that has gotten in has gotten out.

sounds like possibly a dodgy earth.

you need to head out to willowbank in winter. gets friggin cold. my mate took his ceffy there on satuday night. stock rb25, microguess, stock turbo @ about 14psi. he's making 212kw and ran 13.2 @ 107mph. still waiting to hear 60ft time, but i'm guessing it won't be that great because his ceffy is setup for drift (has stiff coilovers)

a lean tune with advanced timing will cause those issues as well, not just retarded timing. if you advance the timing to a point where it detonates, then EGT's will increase. 1 or 2 degrees advanced timing can have a worse effect than 1 or 2 degrees retarded timing

that will be for the nistune and tuning. the nistune board itself (with fitting) is only about $310. and the reason why we go on about it being superior is that because for only a small amount more than what you are spending on a AFC you could get an ECU that doesn't just allow minor altering of the AFM signal where you end up with a compromised power increase. the gains from the nistune will not only give you a higher max power, but also give much more power in the low and midrange, making it better to drive.

the one near the cat is a temp sensor.

considering that it doesn't have to pump any air in when the throttle is shut it isn't really an issue. and as for when you apply the throttle again, it will just meter any air that does come through the afm, but the ecu probably is setup with mapping to take into account the air already in the piping. but the very short amount of time (and air) that it would take to refill the piping if you had an atmo bov wouldn't really make a noticable effect on things.

you may be able to adjust the damper settings to make it softer, but if the coilovers are a drift spec one they will probably have a stupidly high spring rate so even at the softest setting they will still be hard

he has a fmic, says so in the first post, but the lack of talk of going a bigger exhaust really worries me. qeel3120, the absolute first thing you should do if you are thinking of raising the boost is getting a turbo back exhaust. this should be number 1 mod on the list anyway. also don't bother going a highflow cat with the stock exhaust as it won't make a scrap of difference as the whole exhaust will be a restriction, not just the cat. because that is how you make more power. the stock ecu runs pretty rich, and that is the whole point of tuning cars. you lean them out a bit to make more power. you don't lean them out too far as that will damage the engine, but leaning them out a bit from stock will give you more power, save you a bit on fuel and still be safe.

i will have a bit of a go at explaining it, but this is from any knowledgable background, just how i understand it. you are pretty much right about the more complete combustion. too much fuel will take longer to burn, so you don't get as much fuel burnt when the compression is the highest (this is similar to how advancing the timing can improve power). obviously you will get to a point where you will stop making power by leaning it out even more, but in the case of cars, they generally run richer than they could because other factors come into play, such as keeping cylinder temps down to prolong engine life (hence when people will say that the tune is "safe"). a certain amount of fuel requires a certain amount of oxygen to combust fully. if you don't have enough oxygen then you will end up with some unburnt fuel, and you will also end up with the last bit of fuel not combusting as quickly as it could if there was a little bit more oxygen. there is also the fact that if there is too much fuel it will almost put out the flame. if you tip a bucket of fuel over a match you will get a small flame but then the flame will go out. as i said, that is only my understanding of it. someone who has a better understanding of the physics/chemistry behind it could probably give a better description.

the advantage of not locking up though is that you can still steer around the object better than if the wheels are locked

you need to run 2 different o2 sensors if you plan on having decent fuel economy. if you don't mind using the extra fuel of not having the ecu run on closed loop then you could just put the wideband sensor in the stock sensor hole.

spot on. there is no way the pump can alter the afr's unless the stock one was on the way out and not pumping enough as it should. here is a very basic analogy of the fuel system there is a bar that serves drinks to a set number of people every mintue. depending on how people are in the bar determines how many drinks it serves (this is the injectors). there is a doorman who only lets a certain number of people in the door per mintue, reguardless of how big the line is (this is the fuel pressure reg). then there is the taxi company who drop people off to the bar (the fuel pump). the taxi company can drop people of in a regular size taxi and there can still be a line up of people waiting to get in the door if they deliver at a faster rate that what the doorman lets people in. when all the taxis are operational then this is easily done. if the taxi company has 1 or 2 taxis broken down and can't drop as many people off then the people will be able to hop out and walk straight into the bar. if the taxi company stops using taxis and starts using buses to drop people off, no more people are going to get into the bar because the doorman still limits how many people get in. it just means the taxi company doesn't have to work as hard. and there you have a very basic analogy of a fuel system, although it is a bit more complicated than that. but it does an example of proving how the fuel pump can't affect AFRs unless the old one wasn't working properly.

because down the track you can simply go and get the nistune retuned for a few hundred dollars. so the afc cost you $300, and lets say another $200 or $300 to get it tuned. so about $600. then down the track you sell it for $300 again (they aren't worth much these days) and then pay $1500 for something like a pfc and then another $300 or $400 for a tune. you are out of pocket a total of around $2500. if you had gone the nistune from the start you may pay an extra $100 or $200 to start with, but then when you upgrade the turbo, etc, it will only cost you another few hundred to get the tune altered, so all up you'd come out about $1000 better off. also the initial tune would get you better power from the nistune. with the AFC you may start to get the engine pinging before you get to the optimum AFRs, because it is simply bending the signal from the afm, which will alter the timing as well as the AFRs both at the same time. you can't seperatly control them.

dynomaster can't be found on the android market. even the link from the dynomaster page doesn't work. found 2 others though. i managed to get 1130hp by hand just before by simply turning the phone 90 degrees and leaving it there, LOL. will try them out in the car later

i know you didn't want people to say this, but you should've gone with something like a nistune. it would've cost roughly the same as what you will end up paying to buy the AFC and get it tuned but give you better results. plenty of places will do it drive in, drive out for under $1000.