mad082

had another go last night. definately starting to get my rythym back. still not able to get below a mid 47 though. i know my 2 weak spots though. 3rd corner and last corner. need to find how to take them better.

+1 for sell it and buy a different one (which is what i said earlier in the thread)

pretty sure you can. i have seen some threads where people have put the vvl head onto the gtir block to get the oil squirters. don't know how that would go for using it rwd though (don't know if the rwd turbo sr20's also have the oil squirters). then they use the sr16 n1 pistons to raise the compression (just getting them modified slightly), sr16 n1 cam.

permission granted

well there aren't really many of us in scotland so we can't really be much help in that department. as for tuning autos being harder than manuals, if a workshop can't/won't tune an auto then find someone else who has a brain. also if you had done a search you would've found plenty of info about ecu's such as the pwer fc.

but if it is clicking a relay under the dash, and it is just an auto thing, i'd be more inclined to say that the car was formerly an auto and has had the gearbox changed. maybe post up the vin number and i will check it in fast.

just jap does the genuine nissan pumps for $165 for a rb25/r33 and 34 gtr pump, $120 for the r32 gtr pump, $110 for the rb20 pump and $260 for the rb25 neo pump.

i don't like heart rate monitors. they keep saying i'm dead

the r32 and s1 r33 turbos suffer the same problems as the s2 r33 and r34 turbos as they all have ceramic exhaust wheels and that is what lets go. that said, i ran my r33 at 14psi for a long time and never had an issue with the turbo. as for the 16psi vs 12psi, a mate of mine did this on the dyno and made about 20kw more on back to back runs, but 16psi is getting to the limit of what the stock turbo will efficiently flow. the only real reason why people think that they run out of puff there is because of misinformation on the internet. what is safe to run on the stock turbo without the turbo stuffing up, and when the turbo stops making power are, in the case of the skyline turbos, 2 different things. if the stock turbos had steel wheels everyone would be running 15psi on them like they do on the sr20's.

wouldn't be suprised if they don't know, LOL. plenty of places have been taking preorders for months now. eb games is also taking pre-orders. but we should find out the next lie... i mean release date in 3 weeks time. found a uk site though taking pre orders with a release date of 24/9/10 also the delay in production is rumoured to have been due to implementing 3d compatiability and playstation move contorller support. if, like me, you don't know what that is (i had to look that up to see what it was), it's basically it's like a wii remote + nunchuck for the ps3. how good that would be for a racing game i'm unsure of. i know that with the wii remotes racing games are pretty ordinary. i much prefer a normal controller. i could understand them wanting to implement the 3d technology and having production delayed because of that, but if they are then taking even longer to get the move controller in there then i think they are wasting their time.

yeah you probably don't have the correct wheel size entered into the settings. if the wheel size is bigger than what you have then it will think you are going faster than you are.

are you sure that is the offset of the rim? +18 should sit our well clear of that, even with being 9.5". i'd double check the offset of the wheels. it should be written on the back of 1 of the spokes. you're only legal option is new wheels. an illegal option is spacers

legal way: drive to local aircon place. ask them to degas aircon. hand over keys. come back after however long they tell you. the job itself should only take about 5 mins, but depends on how busy you are. as to how much they charge i wouldn't know, but it shouldn't be too much.

the nylon compressor wheel has nothing to do with what galois is saying. the ceramic exhaust wheel on the other hand does. these often fail once the boost has been wound up above 12psi, however that is when they are run at that boost on the standard engine they were designed for. since you have the r34 turbo on an rb20 it isn't quite so much of an issue. the turbo itself won't really be damaging the engine as it is the turbo that it most likely to be stuffed. the smoke is more than likely being caused by the oil seal inside the turbo no sealing properly and allowing oil to enter the engine and burn. it may be the rear seal that is leaking though and that won't have any oil entering the engine, the smoke will just be caused by the heat of the exhaust burning off the oil. to work out which it is, pull off one of the intercooler pipes (preferably the one from the turbo to the intercooler) and look for oil. if you see oil in the pipe then the turbo is the problem.

you forgot to add in step 4, which is "say goodbye to the exhaust wheel of the stock turbo as it gets drastically weakened by the excess heat and decides to part company with the turbo and go on a holiday out the exhaust" also i think this pic belongs in this thread

yeah arm and leg warmers are good. i wear gloves whether it's cold or not. i wear fingerless ones in summer and normal ones in winter. i don't like riding without gloves cause the grips go funny after a while

yeah his lap was much cleaner than mine. he's pretty much a second up on me by the first time check. if i didn't use nos during the lap, but did before crossing the line to start the lap, and made how i took the last corner a way that gives the highest speed when i cross the line i could do better, but each of my laps that i do is just 1 quick lap after another, so the run i get onto the start straight isn't the ideal line to get a good start to the lap.

while a lot of this discussion is valid, i think a lot of what will make the decision of which engine to run will come down to how much money the OP has to spend. the reason being that there is a hell of a lot more aftermarket parts to build a high HP sr20 than there is a rb20. on a small budget the sr20 is going to be well ahead of the rb20. an unopened vvl motor with just bolt on goodies such as exhaust, ecu, can get you up to around 130kw at the wheels. my main point is that if you tip in buckets of money into the rb20 it may end up making more power than a sr20, but if that isn't the case then going the sr20 with a vvl is going to give better yields for less money since your starting power is going to be 20 or 30% higher, as well as there being plenty of parts available as the ve motor is very popular in the states.

yeah plenty of people have had the issue with surging, etc with less than 1/4 of a tank. generally means that they haven't mounted it low enough. i think when there was just the thread of how to put it into a 32 and not a 33, people were cutting the bottom of the metal hose off the standard mount to get the pump to sit level with the bottom of the bracket, or at least not down as far as this method (which i used when installing a pump into a mates 33 - before this thread even existed- and he could have the light come on and not have surging issues).

ten four, your tsukuba lap, was that using nos? last night i played around for a while, and even with the wing changed (to get downforce), but without nos, the best i could manage was a mid 47. i don't think the wing added too much too it though. also i haven't played the game in a looooooong time, so i'm pretty rusty. i was only able to manage 1 lap into the 47's and 2 or 3 into the 48's. most of my laps were in the 49's or 50's where i used to be able to get into the 50's on street tyres when i was doing the superlap challenge. once when doing that (which i posted in either this thread or the other one) i put on medium tyres and did a mid 48 lap first go without nos, and that was in a vspec, not a nur which was putting out about 70hp less than the nur

things like your fuel pressure, how well the injectors are working (how clean they are, etc), etc will all affect how much power you can make on the stock injectors.

there are some r33's with the rb20E in them. there is one in town here. it's an auto too, LOL. while they took a step backwards in the engine department for the bargain basement model r33 is beyond me, but there are a few of them getting around. as far as getting more power goes, you can't blame the guy. he has a car that weighs 200kg more than a n15 pulsar SSS, but has 10kw less power, LOL. my advice to the thread starter, if you want more power legally, sell it and buy a non turbo skyline with a rb25de in it. you will instantly gain 44kw, about 60nm of torgue, and it will probably cost you less than trying to get more power out of the motor you have. the current setup you have is pretty much the slowest/least powerful skyline you can buy. a hyundai excel would probably beat you.

ahahaha, good stuff. glad you got it sorted

when i put a turbo on my mates 33 i left the oil return line off (with everything else hooked up), disconnected the CAS plug and then turned the car over until oil came out the return line. then just hook it all up again and it's done.

from what i have read on other forums BC coilovers are good. tein are also good. i know that the teins give a nice ride and aren't very rough. not sure about the BC ones. as for the smoke, sounds like it could be one of a few things. more than likely going to be the oil seal on the turbo. don't know if they are replaceable or not. don't think they are, but i don't really know too much about that sort of thing. there are other possibilities of what it could be, but if you have put in a second motor and it still does it then it is more than likely the turbo.