mad082

the NA one should fit, and i have a feeling the GTR unit should as well. really just comes down to where the outlets are on the tanks. as long as they are in the same position then it'll be fine

hmmm, that is a thought. maybe i could buy 2 collectors editions, and sell one at a profit to cover the extra cost of the copy i keep yeah pretty much. i think it was jbhifi have the release date as december on their site.

bigger piping = more flow but less repsonse, because it takes longer to fill up the piping.

i don't think the internet will be the way of the future just yet. the reason being that the games still take up so much data and internet speeds are no-where near fast enough, so there will still be a need for physical packaging of games for many years to come.

may be a slight blockage in it. when i had a turbosmart dual stage controller on my 33, occasionally when i changed gears the controller wouldn't release the pressure between it and the wastegate, so the wastegate would stay open a bit and it would hardly make any boost and feel like a slug

i was just coming in to post that but looks like i've been beaten to it

it's not worth the extra $130 or so. if it was an extra $50 then maybe, but not $130 for a model and a key ring. not too worried about the cars.

the only place you may lose some power is high up in the revs. general driving around and even just reving up to around 5000rpm probably won't make a scrap of difference. anything above that i think you would have to put it on a dyno to see the difference in power. don't think you'd notice the power when driving it. if you were aiming for 250kw+ then it might be worth going 3" though.

beat me to it. yeah the 02 sensors are in the dump pipe, so you could run a twin system with twin cat's if you wanted. might struggle for space though. you'd probably only want to run a twin 2.5" system or maybe 2.75" system, because unless you are running some big power that is all you'll need (a twin 2.5" system will have a bigger volume than a single 3" system).

wait, so 60c was what it was when you first started it, or was 40c? either way it is causing the ecu to see false readings.

it is very hard for air to get into the system, because the system becomes pressurised when hot, so any places air could get in will have water squirting out of them. only real cause of air bubbles can be a dodgy water pump causing cavitation resulting in bubbles, or a blown head gasket. it may be worth replacing your radiator cap and see if that makes any difference. just go a standard cap with the same pressure rating.

my theory is that the extra 2 or 3mm taller that the BCPR6ES plug is will mean that it makes better contact with the coil, but it really is SFA difference. i ran both the BCP and BKR plugs in my 33 and they both worked fine

does the ecu control the boost on the r32? if it is a seperate boost controller then most likely the boost controller was the issue and turning off the car was enough to reset whatever the issue was, and it most likely had nothing to do with the ecu or engine. it felt sluggish simple because you were onlt getting half the boost you normally had.

you can use a s1 r33 ecu. the ecu's are interchangable (despite what a lot of people will tell you). so just either look on ebay or in the for sale section on here for an ecu from a 33

as was said by franga, the brand new ones may weight that much but not the older ones, but the newer ones are also a lot more powerful than the old ones. a bit of work done to a BA xr6 (non turbo) will get it to run low 14's or high 13's. the older falcons and commodores were down as low as about 1300kg, which is about the same weight as a skyline

yeah i was trying to remember what the cars were in that episode cause i was going to try to find a youtube video to post. this is also part of the reason why NA skylines can keep up with commodores and falcons. put a big aussie 6 or v8 diff ratio into a NA skyline and it would get left for dead. even a lot of relatively stock turbo skylines would struggle against the big aussie 6's. alternatively, put a small car diff ratio into a commodore or falcon and you'd never get over about 50% throttle in first without frying the tyres. you could easily take off in second cause it wouldn't be that much harder than first gear is normally. 2nd gear in a manual skyline is about the same ratio as first gear in an auto falcon/commodore. go and try and take off hard in 2nd gear and see how slow it is. puts the performance of the big aussie 6's and 8's into perspective.

the reason it will take 2.5 weeks to fix is probably because of a mix of 3 things 1: they would have to order a bonnet and any other panels/parts they need. so expect a few days at least on them 2: the work alone will take a few days. i had a mate who is a panel beater do a respray on my car. he was doing it fitting it in between other jobs (but he was doing most of it straight away) he was respraying the whole drivers side of the car, bonnet and boot, as well as welding up some small rust holes around the back window. he started the car thursday lunch time. finished preping it about 8pm that night. firday morning it was painted and baked. buffed/polished saturday morning. so that was 2 days for a relatively small amount of work. 3: the panel shop will probably have a back log of work, as well as the fact that any work that isn't an insurance job will more than likely have priority over insurance work because they get paid more for it. the insurance company tells the panel shop how much they will pay per hour to repair the car, paint the car etc. and different insurance companies pay different rates. the rate can vary by $20 or $30 per hour. also if the panel shop quotes for 10 hours work and the insurance company only thinks it should take 7 hours to fix they will only pay them for the 7 hours (this is also why it's a lot harder to sneak extra repairs through and claim them on insurance these days). my mate was telling me that he hates cars with multilayer pearls, etc because they take twice as long to paint, but they still only get paid the same amount as if it was a solid colour, so they may do 4 hours work and only get paid for 2. so for this reason insurance jobs aren't high priority jobs.

no, you are correct. stock turbo @ 10psi on stock ecu is fine 99% of the time. there will be the odd car that will hit rich and retard at this level, but very few, and this can come down to innacuracy of the boost gauge (may be reading 10psi but the car is actually boosting 11 or 12psi)

turbo engines are rather different to natro engines when it comes to exhaust requirements. as has been said, you won't notice any difference between a 3" and 3.5" system. if it was on a NA car, then it would be a totally different story

probably not best to do when fully up to temp if you aren't confident. if you do decide to do it, have a rag wrapped around the area, or at least sitting over the top of the spanner. also you don't want to remove the bolt the whole way. you just want to loosen it enough that any air can escape, so you probably only need to loosen it a few turns. you will be able to tell once you are starting to get close to having it completely undone as the last few turns the bolt will be a bit wobbly in the thread, and also you will get coolant making it's way past the thread. the moment you get coolant starting to seep out then you don't need to loosen it off any further. however i would do it when the car is only just coming up to temp. i wouldn't be doing after driving the car round for half an hour.

the temp should be up around 80 to 90 degrees once it comes up to temp, so if the gauge isn't getting that high then that says it all. not sure on thread size for the dash sensor

if you are going to be checking them that often you might as well go the coppers. you will generally get 10,000 to 15,000 out of them.

it may be moisute getting into the plugs on the look. try some electrical contact cleaner or some of the electrical paste you can get on all the plugs to try and improve the connection. if you have the coil pack valley cover on then try removing it and leave it off for a few days and see what happens.

the amount that the ecu learns is actually pretty small, so i would try resetting it via the disconnecting +ve battery terminal method in order to clear any possible fault codes and get it back to the stock settings.

to be honest i'm suprised the gauge reads accurately. generally they need to be paired with their correct sensor to give an accurate reading. i'm guessing this is why the car doesn't want to start. the ecu is seeing a totally different temp to what it actually is and is therefore adjusting the fuel amount it is injecting to start the car. my advice is to leave the ecu wire alone and use the proper sensor for the gauge and mount it in one of the alloy things you can get for them. the last thing you want is the ecu to be seeing the wrong temp and altering the mixture and timing. this could lead to either a loss of power or potential damage.