mad082

the civic, or corolla for that matter, are not even close to being australias most popular family car. that is owned by ford and holden. the civic and corolla may be two of australias favourite small cars, but certainly not favourite cars. the honda accord is a family car, not a civic. a skyline is a family car also. and if you are buying a car for the fun of driving it, i wouldn't get a skyline either. i'd go for the honda over a skyline, for the simple fact that how fast something gets to 100kmh doesn't determine how much fun it is. that just makes me think of that line from tokyo drift "wow, you can read the brochure". i've owned a turbo 33 and a 180sx and the 180 was more fun than the 33, despite being about 100hp down on power, yet neither were the most fun car i have driven when it come to shits and giggles type of driving. sure the turbo imports can put a smile on your dial if you floor it, but they also can scare you. the most fun i've had driving around town at full noise was in the least powerful car i have owned. it was a 1.3L ford festiva that was lowered with big wheels (15", which are big on a festiva). this was the sort of car that you could drive as hard as you want and barely break the speed limit or attract attention from the cops. doing the speed limit round corners felt fast. everytime you took off from a set of lights it was a drag race to 60, even if it was some old granny in their new camry next to you. sure it wasn't that great as a car since it had no power, but as far as driving like a dick, you could do it and not break the speed limit, and not get anywhere near fast enough to get you into a situation where you run out of talent and end up in a tree. in something like the skyline or the 180 you were up to the speed limit in a few seconds, and a few seconds later you were approaching twice the speed limit and having to get hard on the brakes because you were going too fast to take the corner or you were going to run up the back of the car in front. so you get a few seconds of fun and then it was over until you next had to accelerate up to the speed limit.

complete bike is about 10kg, so not to shabby on the weight either.

threads like this are why i spend most of my time, and ask any serious questions, in the wasteland. generally get more informative responses, LOL

just ordered one of these http://2009.apollobikes.com/bikes09/id/4/c.../title/Taos%20C dirt cheap (40% off).

thinking about getting a carbon fibre mtb. just got a specials list and there is 1 on there extremely cheap. is a $2200rrp bike. going to get 1 in for stock. if it sells then it sells, if not i will keep it

when to change gears depends on your power graph. your power drops off after it hits its peak, so you have to time the change so that you aren't reving it out to a point where at the higher rpm in the lower gear you have less power than you would in the lower gear. staying at the higher rpm when the power is dropping off can also result in you spending more time at lower power than it you change, however there is another thing to look at. in the lower gear the engine will accelerate easier thanks to the shorter gearing, so changing too early can give you slower acceleration despite the fact that you might be at a high power range in the rev range.

also you may need to push the pump up a little bit otherwise the pump will hit the bottom of the tanke before the bracket sits in place properly

they are an over temp fan, designed to come on if the car gets too hot.

as krazy kong said, the felt pads could've hardened or could be pressing against the window too hard and grabbing on the glass. could also be that the motor itself is a bit tight. maybe try a bit of lube on the output shaft of the motor if you can get to it.

sometimes the switch inside the stalk gets buggered

rowan have you thought of buying a single speed 29"? redline do a nice one.

might be an issue with the amount of fluid in the gearbox. auto transmissions won't give you any drive if the fluid is low. if you are reversing up a hill then that may be making the issue worse if the fluid is low.

i think you still have issues with putting a nistune on a NA r34 because you can't get the stock tune off the r34 ecu, so it requires a full start from scratch tune rather than just tweaking the stock settings a bit. there was a discussion about this a while back and tuners were having all sort of issues getting it to work. don't know if any of them got it sorted

multi vehicle platforms are the in thing. nissan aren't the only people doing it. GM are doing it as well.

in the skyline line you missed out the v35 and v36. as for the r36, i agree the comment lachlanw said about did you think they would just keep updating the r35 for 15 years. most models these days have a lifespan of about 4 or 5 years (with a few exceptions) and the replacment model starts getting developed about halfway through the life of the model it replaces. how much they change between the r35 and r36 is anyones guess. it could be like the 350z to 370z where to look at there isn't a huge amount of changes done. or the v35 to v36 nissan didn't really make any wholesale changes, they just tweaked it a bit and generally speaking the changes weren't much more than what nissan did between the s1 and s2 r33 skylines. before people start pointing out all the difference that there were between the 2, i already no, i am just making a general statement pointing out that the diferences were less than between the r32, 33 and 34.

yeah probably the 1.6L pulsars. go up against a SSS driven by someone who is actually trying then get back to me. i've gone up against a natro r33 and beaten it in mine, as well as a stock turbo cefiro and beaten it.

if you are planing on going turbo down the track i wouldn't really do too much to it at all. just do cheap easy mods. then when you plan to go turbo sell the car and buy a GTS-t as that is much cheaper than building a turbo NA, and you get the added bonus of LSD and bigger braker and stronger gearbox.

they were. the carby version of an rb30 was only really found in the patrol, and i'm pretty sure they put out less power than the efi version. and getting carbies to work on an efi engine would be a hell of a pain

if the thermostat isn't fully closed when you pull it out then it's stuffed. then put it in some boiling water. if it doesn't open all the way up then it is also stuffed. you can also tell whether it is stuffed of not by how long your car takes to warm up in the morning and where the needle sits when driving. the needle should sit about halfway on the gauge once up to temp, and should only take a few kms or a few mins of driving to come up to temp (longer if the car is just sitting idling)

it's also weighty because it is such a deep v rim. there is more alloy in it than there is in shallower rims. as for the buying stuff cheap from overseas, etc, unfortunately that isn't something that the bike shops themselves have any control over. those tyres you bought were probably the same, or less than the wholesale cost of them here. there are many reasons why, but the biggest one is the population of the country. somewhere like the UK or US the suppliers can supply the whole country from 1 or 2 warehouses and are getting the profit from servicing a market of 3 times the size of ours in the case of the UK and 15 times the size of ours in the case of the US. this means that they can buy things cheaper than the australian wholesalers because they can buy in much larger quantities, as well as they can run smaller profit margins as they will shift many more items than here so will still make more money. and unfortunately the more australians who buy from overseas the worse the prices will get here. small things like tubes will go up, as will servicing costs because the shops running costs aren't going to drop, and the shop dropping the price doesn't work either. i worked out 1 day that if i run everything at 20% less than rrp, i have to sell twice as much to make the same amount of profit. i understand why people do it, but i don't think people realise what sort of effect they are having on local industry. or the positive effect they could have on the local industry if they stopped doing it.

i think you are a bit late on the advice.... like 4 years late

in that case then the power you made is pretty much right. you have to remember that the 206kw they are rated at is at the flywheel and not at the wheels, so the power at the wheels will always be less. throw on a full exhaust, wind the boost up to about 10psi and you should see that figure rise up to around 170 to 185kw. throw on a frount mount intercooler and raise the boost up to around 12psi and you should see about 190 to 200kw. add a tune on top of that and you should see a bit more again.

350 for the cam may be ok, but i wouldn't touch the webbers. i highly doubt that just the cams and the webbers would get you 175hp just from those. 175hp at the flywheel maybe, but certainly not at the wheels without a heap of other work. and you would hope for there to be 3 carbies and not just one if you were going to run them on a 6 cylinder.

the thermostat is in the top hose where the hose meets the block. there will be a fitting the hose goes onto which is bolted to the block with 3 bolts. behind that is the thermostat. with the thermostat in and the engine cold it will stay shut and won't let any water past, so jamming a hose in either of the radiator hoses won't do much, so you need to pull it out to allow the water to flow past it. depending on the type of thermostat that is fitted it may even be holding the water in the block in the same way that you can pick up water with a straw by blocking the top of it.

33 with 30k spent on it will blow the pants off a stock gtr, even a nur, in every way except for traction off the line. a 33 with 10k spent on it will beat a stock gtr.