mad082

also depends on how low you have let the tank get. they generally come on at about 8 to 10 litres left in the tank.

yeah it sounds like your o2 sensor is dead. new o2 sensor should give you a bit better fuel economy. also the o2 sensor won't tell you if you are leaning out unless you are really leaning out badly. you could have your car tuned to the ideal AFR of aroung 12:1 and it will still say you are rich. you could be leaning out to around 13.5:1 and it will still say you are running rich. if they do tell you that you are running lean then you have more than likely have damage done as the car has to be running pretty darn lean before they will tell you that you are. also it would be worth hooking it into the other o2 sensor to see if it is also dead

rb20 boxes go pretty cheap, the 25 boxes go for a hell of a lot more because more people want them since they are an upgrade from the 20 box.

you are saying this as if the r34 didn't borrow much of it's styling from other cars, and that everyone saw the r34 and thought "wow, we should copy some of that stuff". the round tail lights were old hat by the time the r34 came along. box styline was also old hat. nissan basically just jazzed up a r31, which was just a tweaked r30. as for the round tail lights though, nissan first used them on the c110 skyline back in 1972, however they had been on the corvette for many years before that (about 10 years on the corvette) and chevrolette had been using round lights on cars in the 50's, although that was 3 round lights, not 2. i highly doubt that ford, holden, vw, or any other brand for that matter, borrowed much styling from the skylines. holden being part of GM would've borrowed styling from it's american cars, and as would've ford, and then just mixing them their current model cars. in the VE commodore i see plenty of stying inspired by BMW and other european styling.

i don't think you were reading the right thing. i think you just saw NEO and then didn't read what followed it. the NEO listed on the NGK parts finder is a VQ25DD (which is the V6 from a v35 skyline). had you looked at the one above that that said 5/98 - 6/01 Nissan Skyline 2500 Turbo RB25DET then you would've found the right part number. as for the BCPR6ES being suitable or not, well considering that probably atleast half of the skylines on this forum are running it, or a variation of it, then i would say yes, it is suitable

drop a match in the tank. it will remove itself, LOL

i have a stanley socket set. cost me a bit over $100 i think. has a breaker bar in it. it's been good to me so far (had it a few years and given it some punishment) and i have a stanley ratchet at work (had it about 8 years now) and it cops an absolute flogging at times and it's never given any sign of letting go, even with a bit of pipe on the end for more leverage. as for spanners, repco spanners are good for the money. kingchrome, sidchrome or snap-on gear is also good gear.

personally i wouldn't bother with iridiums. in my experience they aren't worth the extra money. as far as getting the plug gap, they generally come pregapped at 0.8mm unless they have a number after them. so for example BCPR6ES (which is the copper plug most people use) is 0.8mm gap, but the BCPR6ES-11 has a 1.1mm gap.

don't see why not. should be all the same.

you are still ignoring the fact that US octane ratings will always be about 4 octane lower than here. it is common knowledge and has been for about the past god knows how many years. the fuel companies may still us MON when testing fuel, however when it comes to saying what octane their fuel is the simple say what RON it is. you may have a good knowledge of australian fuels, but you seem to have little knowledge about other countries octane ratings. a prime example of this would be any cars shipped to th US designed to run on premium fuels would have dramatically lower power outputs if the US octane was actually only 92 RON for the premium fuel. the manufacturers would have to detune all the cars, and infact all cars, not just cars designed to run on premium would have to be detuned. yet they all seem to have the same power outputs and don't get detuned.

the smoke would probably be the oil you put into number 1 cylinder.

are you putting any coolant in with the water? if not then that could be part of the problem. normal water may well boil in the system without coolant which is possibly doing more damage than it is cleaning.

seriously, learn how to search. this topic gets covered nearly everyday. the NGK website will even put up a part number for both platinum and iridium plugs for the r34 (as well as all other skylines), and it isn't even in a hard to find place. i would post up the part number for the copper plugs which i would recommend, but since it has already been covered so many times over the past week or 2 i think you need the practice to improve your searching skills.

why not google a few, then read through the posts and see which gives you the best info. or join a few, post any questions you have and see which gives you the best answers

i'm not overly picky on games, so i don't think it will bother me that much, LOL.

there isn't anything wrong with E10 fuels. i've been running it for a few years now, in various cars, as have others i know, without any troubles at all. generally people who have trouble with it aren't actually having trouble with the fuel but the cleaning properties that the fuel has and it breaks down a lot of the garbage in the fuel tank or the fuel filter and it gets deposited in the injectors. this is normally in cars where the fuel filter hasn't been replaced for a few years and is probably full of crap and not filtering very well anyway. very few people have had issues caused by the fuel itself. as for performance of different fuels, there is actually very little difference in the actual fuel as far as how much performance it gives you. where the performance comes into it is from the octane rating, which is how hard it is to ignite. the higher the octane rating, the harder it is to ignite, so the more advanced timing you can run. on most modern cars the engine has knock sensors which register any pinging and then retard the timing to save the engine from damage. so if you run a car on the lower octane fuel that was designed for higher octane fuel on lower octane fuel then the ecu will retard the timing and you will have less power, meaning you have to use more accelerator (and therefore more fuel) to accelerate or even just cruise at a fixed speed. that is how you are able to get better fuel economy from higher octane fuels. but if you take a basic car that is designed to run on basic fuel you often won't see any gains from running higher octane fuels. as for any damage you may have done, if the knock sensors aren't working properly, or the engine is still getting pinging once the ecu retards the timing then it can damage spark plugs or ringlands.

the moisture you are seeing when the car is warming up isn't fuel. it may have a fuel smell to it but that is just because it has mixed with carbon deposits in the exhasut. it is simply moisture. and changing your o2 sensor won't affect that because on warm up the ecu ignores the o2 sensor. as for the smell of fuel, it could be that the cat is stuffed, you have an exhaust leak, or the seal around the fuel pump is a bit dodgy

sorry mate but i never said RON did i? i said octane (not quite the same thing). and if you do a bit of research you will find that the US octane ratings ARE different to ours because we go off the RON rating and america goes off (RON + MON)/2. and since the MON rating is generally about 8 less than the RON rating (but not always), when you add the 2 together and then halve it it comes out about 4 less than the RON rating. RON = Research Octane Number MON = Motor Octane Number as for fuel being cheap in america, that is somewhat true, but you also have to remember that the minimum wage there is about half of what it is here.

the air coming out of the hole won't be at 150psi. that is just the pressure that will build up if there is something blocking it. the reason for removing all the spark plugs when doing a compression test is so you get an accurate measure of each cylinder individually. if you have spark plugs in the other cylinders then they will be building pressure on their compression stroke which may lower the reading you get because the engine will be turning over somewhat slower.

there will generally be a lot of smaller shops with a lot of more specialised tools.

i agree. it takes ages for an engine to come up to temp just by idling. if the car isn't registered then just do laps in and out of the garage. it will still take a while to warm up, but quicker than just idling

US octane ratings are calculated differently to here. 92 octane in the US is close to 96 octane here. generally you add 4 to the US octane and you are pretty close to the octane level of our fuel.

i got the job i applied for, start monday, so now i just have to wait for my credit card points to appear on my card so i can get the vouchers and get me a cheap ps3 and ff13

the car should actually still run/idle, etc on 91 octane, it should just perform poorly when accelerate. if the car isn't turning over then there is an issue that has nothing to do with the fuel.

i ran mine without the cover on. it lets the heat escape from the coils better so they last longer. as for keeping water out, i degreased my engine with the cover on and was carefull with where i was spraying the hose not to spray around the cover as i knew water would still get in. i still managed to get enough water in there to cause a bad misfire which actually took longer to go away because when the engine heated up and started to boil away the water the steam couldn't escape very well.