mad082

as someone said above, sun damage comes more from how much time it has spend outside than how many kms it has done. if someone parks it in a garage on weekends and in undercover parking, and just generally takes better care of it it can look better than something that is half the age. unfortunately these days it is hard to tell. it is so easy just to buy a new cluster off ebay and stick that in you don't even need to bother fiddling with the odometer to wind it back. also kms doesn't mean that much. if a car has been used for highway driving then it will have high kms on the clock but the engine may have only done as much work as something with half as many kms that sits in traffic for half an hour a day. a car driving round town for 3 hours would probably put more wear on an engine that is driving for 3 hours on the highway, despite the fact that it would've only done half the distance. the engine itself would probably do more revolutions driving round town due to reving higher when acceleration, etc, but just the tyres don't turn as much.

^^^that's what i thought when i first read it too. so when you say it's "going in a straight line", do you mean that instead of turning the corner the car is going straight ahead, or "understeering" if you will? LOL if yes, then it is caused by 2 things. 1, the front tyres aren't gripping enough, and 2, the rear tyres are gripping more than the fronts and you haven't increased the power enough to break traction. if you want to remedy the problem, get better tyres for the front, or (and this is a much better way to solve it), don't drive in an unsafe and illegal manner on the road.

personally i don't like matt or satin paint jobs. they constantly look dirty. i would have to say that out of the colours you offered to choose from, the blue and white would be my pic.

note to self: beat up hojak for becoming a nerd with an apple product, then continue onto other people in this thread LOL

if the roads are in shit conditions then drive to the conditions. so if the road is rough, etc, slow down more for corners. simple as that. you don't HAVE to do the speed limit just because that is what it is signed. i have driven on some pretty shit roads in my time (thanks to living in a small town whose council prefers to let money sit in the bank rather than spending us, making us one of the richest councils in qld) and very few roads i have been on are actually unsafe. some of the ones out of town a bit that require you to drop the outside wheels off onto the dirt shoulder if a car is coming the other way are a bit dodgy (if a car is actually coming the other way) but other than that, as long as you aren't trying to be speed racer they are fine. what shits me off though is many times i have been driving along on one of the above mentioned roads and had a late model 4wd coming the other way and they won't drop a wheel off onto the should but force me right off to the edge of the shoulder. i don't mind getting off onto the shoulder, but for them to be such a pussy and not want to get their 4wd a bit dusty for 10 seconds just shits me right off.

except now that they made it illegal to have them on if not foggy. however if you only have a 10w bulb in there then they could be classed as parkers.

well it only needs 3 things to start, 1 of which is hard for it not to get. that is air. the other 2 are fuel and spark. do you have an alarm system or immobilizer in the car? may possibly be that it is causing the problem if you do. if not, next time after you have been for a drive, have a spare spark plug handy, pop the bonnet and remove the spark plug from number 1 cylinder. screw in the spare one (to stop fuel coming out) and then put the old spark plug bag in the coil and earth the tip of the plug on the motor and have someone turn the car over. you should see a spark as it turns over. if you don't then you have a spark issue. if it sparks fine, then you more than likely have a fuel issue. also be worth trying to let the fuel pump prime before you start turning it over. see if that makes any difference.

sounds reasonable to me since it includes the extractors.

i'm not a fan of clutch coasting. puts extra stress on your throw out bearing or whatever one it is that the clutch fork moves. it also means you wear your brakes out faster as well as use more fuel. i also hate people who pull the handbrake up without pushing the button in. it just sounds terrible and does actually increase the wear of the ratchet mechanism, although it is minimal. as for stupid drivers, i came through an intersection once (slowly cause it is a shit road) and could see a car ahead attempting to pull out of a park. i slowed down even more to about 20kmh as i approached. he had his indicator on and pulled out a little bit then stopped and sort of rolled back in a bit so i assumed he had seen me and was letting me past (since i was only about a car length away at this point). so i sped up a bit and went round him. as i was right next to him he went to pull out again and got this massive shock to find a car next to him and then gave me the finger with this disgusted look on his face. i'm sorry, but you just attempted to pull out into the side of me because you weren't paying attention to other cars, and you were the one at fault, not me.

just make it one of the ones with the rb20E in it

if it was a fuel problem you could tell by the colour of the spark plugs. also it wouldn't really be a missfire (unless it was an injector not firing properly). if it was the fuel pump then it should get worse under high load in the higher gears as that is when the fuel pump will be working the hardest. does the problem happen when the car is cold, or only after it has been driving around for a while? if only when hot i would start by getting a new ignitor (although since you have already replaced coils and plugs it wouldn't hurt to get a new ignitor as well).

the one at the front is an over temp fan. pretty sure it only kicks in once the temp is over a certain point. and if the radiator is blocked at all then there is a good chance that the sensor is covered in crap and not getting an actual reading (sensor is located at the bottom of the radiator AFAIK). also the standard clutch fan (the one attached to the engine) should be louder when the temp gets higher, so there is a small possibility that it isn't engaging properly and is the reason for the higher temps, however i doubt it would be the main problem in your case. if you have a second car, or can be without the car for a day, pull your radiator out and take it to a radiator place to have it inspected and cleaned. that would be my first recomendation. if they find that it wasn't very blocked (which is pretty much anything under about 10 or 15%) then start looking at things like the water pump and the clutch fan, but get the radiator checked first.

could also just be that the hose is split. that is also a common problem

that made me LOL. so every person in NSW should recognise 1 road? bit of a broad statement isn't it?

i would be doing the 100,000kms service ASAP. never trust the kms on the odometer of an imported car. it is not uncommon for them to be innaccurate from having a different cluster put in before being imported. also if the radiator was noted as being 30% blocked i would assume they cleaned it, so i would proceed with the 100,000km service before bothering with it again. also wise to hold off putting the cooler in. i wouldn't bother putting a colder thermostat in. did you get a genuine thermostat or an aftermarket one? if non genuine, the first thing i would recommend doing is getting a genuine one. this is one of the few things i do actually recommend getting genuine when it comes to skylines.

you are refering to 2 fans. the aircon fan i am assuming you are talking about the one in front of the radiator, and the other thermo, are you talking about the clutch fan attached to the motor? is that the one that isn't working? so when the car is running it isn't spinning, or when the car gets hot it is roaring louder than normal to suck extra air? if it isn't spinning when the engine is running, well that is the obvious answer, but otherwise that shouldn't be all that much of an issue as long as you don't spend a lot of time in traffic and stop/starting when driving. at a constant speed there will be some airflow and it shouldn't boil. as battery said it could be the radiator is blocked, but there is a chance it could also be your water pump. how many kms has the car done, and has it had it's major 100,00km service done? if so, do you know if the water pump was replaced?

your fan seems to be working fine, so don't worry about that. in ambient temps as high as that you would expect some higher engine temps (especially in stop/go driving where airflow is dramatically reduced), but i don't know about that high. as for what to look at to keep the temps down, there are 3 main things to consider looking at. 1: radiator. if this is slightly blocked (as happens over time) then it won't be operating at 100% effeciency and won't be able to disperse the heat properly 2: thermostat. if this isn't working properly it won't be allowing the correct flow of coolant to remove all the heat. 3: water pump. basically as above. if the car is getting close to needing it's 100,000km service (so basically anything from about 85,000kms or up) the water pump may be a contributing factor. you say that you had the radiator serviced 20,000kms ago and had an end tank replaced, did they clean it while they were fixing it? i would assume they did, but do you recall them mentioning anything to you about it? i had a 33 that was running up around 95 degrees on hot days (mid 30's). i put a new thermostat in and new coolant and it didn't help the problem at all. i didn't get around to actually solving the issue as i sold the car as i needed money. but in other cars i've had i've had overheating issues and solved them with new thermostats and radiator cleans (not just flushing it with the hose, etc but actually taking it to a radiator place and having them open it up and clean it). i have also seen on here where other people have changed water pumps to find that the impellor was worn away and was the cause of their heating issues.

there is nothing wrong with the ryco filters (you will find that they make a large amount of the "genuine" filters on cars and make all filters to OEM spec). as for which filter to use, just look at whats on there. if it is a non genuine one just match the numbers

does it turn over if you try and start it, or does it just do nothing when you turn the key?

wait what? and i'm pretty sure he wants a fast car. although you are probably right. he's written off one car, so he will more than likely write off another, so if he gets a 32 he will have less chance of writing it off because it's slower, but then if he does, it's no great loss because it was only a 32. anywho, welcome to sau

who really cares. this thread from back in 2008, and was dug up by some noob, so i don't think the OP is going to care anymore. as for what is better, the engine in the supra is superior in quality to that of the GTR (and you will find that anyone with any decent mechanical knowledge will agree, even on this forum). also in stock form the supra isn't far behind the GTR in a drag race.

oil catch can will help if it is coming out of the engine through the breather pipe, but won't help if the oil is coming out of the front seal of the turbo

also twist the AAC as you pull

spotted a dark 32 gts-t (pretty sure it was a gts-t) with gtr front bar driving towards bli bli on bradman ave near chambers island around 4:30-5 on saturday arvo. RBNT and i were fishing off the bank

getting the clamps off is a bit of a pain, but other than that, brute force and ignorance will get them off