mad082

have owned a 33 and a 180, and been in a 32, and know someone with a 300zx. if i was owning another import it would be the 33 or the 180sx. never been much of a fan of the 32, and they and the 300zx are the slowest of the group. also getting a bit long in the tooth these days. also if you like working on cars and plan on doing mods yourself, forget the 300zx. for a reason why, google a pic of the engine bay. it is another reason why they are the slowest. most of them will weigh about 300kg more than when they came out of the factory because there are dozens of tools somewhere in the engine bay that hav been dropped by people working on them that they were never able to find or retrieve because of the lack of space.

that is pretty cool. don't like the lost birds bit though. the rest of it is good. i'm assuming it is only done in nikko/permanent marker and not a paint pen?

ahaha, the missus just walked past the computer and saw that post about getting a cannon and mumbled as she walked off "stay away from cannons mate, they ain't cool" made me LOL

<insert facepalm pic here>

yeah the ecu is the same. it is just the minor bits and pieces i mentioned. the main things are the same. anything that is different isn't too hard to change.

flashback humour is better

i would just take the radiator so you don't have to pay them to remove it from the car. also unless you actually removed the end tanks from the core you probably only got out 1% of any crap in it. generally it hardens in there and has to be phsyically removed with a brush type thing.

what is wrong with the s1 motor? if nothing, then honestly i wouldn't bother as they don't put out any difference in power. the turbo on the s2 has a nylon intake wheel so it will spool the tiniest bit earlier, but not enough to notice and they both have the ceramic exhaust wheel, and the turbos are the same size. but to answer your question, there is very little you would have to change between the s1 and s2. the easiest way would be to use the s1 parts on the s2 motor for anything that is different. this will include the coils and ignitor (as i'm not sure if the s2 coilpack loom will simply plug into the s1 loom where the ignitor plugs into it), afm (different plug) and throttle body (the tps plug is different). there may be 1 or 2 other things, but they are the main things i'm aware of.

might be an AFM problem. sounds like the problem is fuel related if the plugs are coming out very wet. it is probably putting too much fuel in and flooding it so the plugs aren't able to fire. try unplugging the injector loom and turning the car over a bit to try and get some of the fuel out of the engine and then plug it back in and see what happens. i know you are in scotland, so that makes the next thing a bit hard, but i would try and get a hold of a consult cable. you may be able to get something on ebay over there (not really sure what is available outside of australia) butif you can get one then you can read off the ecu any possible fault codes and check things like the AFM voltage as well as other things.

yeah but maybe they bought the business outright and the other place had to borrow heavily to do it. maybe the landlord of the cheaper place doesn't charge as much, or they own the building as well. i know that in my business i pay over $2500 a month in rent (for a pretty small shop) and just over $1600 a month in loan repayments. so that is over $4000 a month PROFIT i have to make just pay those 2 things without running at a loss, which in my industry works out to be about $13500 worth of sales. also i was looking at buying a carwash a few years back. the rent on the place was over $15,000 a month. electricity was another few thousand, as was water, etc. so despite the fact that it turned over decent money every month, on some of the slower months it would go backwards by 3-4k. also there was a servo in town that was for sale for a while. it was the most expensive servo in town because it was a full service servo and it also did mechancial repairs, so someone came out and filled up your car for you. i turned over over $1 million a year, but the profit from that was pretty small. if you had to borrow the full amount to buy the business you wouldn't be making any money.

way to dig up an acient thread

on the fuel economy for a second, a falcon motor towing a caravan or anything like that will obviously use more fuel, but not that much more than what a rb30 will. also the extra fuel economy is only partly due to the extra weight but more to do with the massive increase in drag caused by towing a car on a trailer or a caravan, and the extra rolling resistance of the tyres. stick the motor in a bus and it will perform differently. also if using a falcon or commodore motor i would have it reving a bit higher on the highway than the car it came out of. this will actually help a bit with fuel economy. you will be reving higher but you won't be labouring the motor as much so will be using less throttle % and therefore less fuel. that is the problem with the aussie motors. the diffs in them are so tall that the moment they get any sort of load on them the fuel economy goes to shit. despite the fact that they are only reving low you still have your foot a fair way down. but get them higher in the revs but with less throttle and they aren't that bad. in the standard car they will use under 10L/100km on the highway without a trailer on. if you were to use an auto box out of the commodore or falcon, just make sure to fit an oil cooler. if going a manual i would get a heavy duty clutch as well. as for commodores cracking heads, etc, that was mainly in the earlier models, like vn's etc, and was generally caused by people raping the arse out of them. talking about the diesels, yes they will take reving at high revs for ages. my mate had an old nissan navara diesel that used to rev at 4200rpm on the highway. was slow as buggery though, even after the engine was rebuilt. if going to go diesel i would go a 4.2L out of the later model patrols, but they will set you back more money than you are probably willing to spend.

well if you stick with 18 x 8.5 you should be safe

you won't want to have it rev too low as that will then decrease how well the motor pulls the bus (which is why the 2.4L is able to move it, because the diff ratio is as short as hell). considering that the rb30 in a commodore ran a 3.45:1 diff, that is the bare minimum you would want. it comes down to tyre size though. the patrols with the rb30 ran about a 3.9:1 diff to take into account bigger tyres, etc. and that is what i would be more inclined to run, or maybe even to around 4.3, depending on how big the tyres are. now this may sound a bit odd hearing this on a skyline forum, but i would actually look at putting in a slightly later model commodore v6 or falcon straight 6. you can pick them up reasonably cheap from wreckers. there are 2 mains reasons why i suggest these. 1: parts are much more readily available 2: they both put out more torque than the rb30 (especially the falcon motors) and that is what you really need to lugging around something as heavy as a bus.

it will be in japanese on the build plate somewhere. if you get the vin number and post it in the thread on here about nissan FAST someone could look it up for you

you know you drive a skyline when.... you buy a skyline and hop in it and drive somewhere LOL

the engine sounds like it was fucked before you bought it, and not really the mechanics fault. they may have made it screw up faster. it had a knock before you took it in to be fixed. big end knocks don't go away by themselves. they usually result in the piston deciding that it doesn't want to be part of the crowd just going up and down all the time and that it is going to try going sideways out the side of the block to see what happens. anywho, welcome to the forums

also i think the paint stripper my affect the demister

which plastic cover are you talking about? the one under the engine? just ziptie it if you can, or take one of the other screws to somewhere that sells nuts and bolts and get them to match it up

i'm not aware of the exhaust gas temp light having any purpose other than lighting up that light in the dash. don't think the ecu uses it for anything. as for the car not starting, does it turn over, etc or is it completely dead?

sounds like maybe the wires in the plug in the back of the dash need to be swapped around

yeah i'd start with checking the cooler piping, etc. sounds very much like a leak somewhere. black smoke is usually caused by major overfueling, which is what happens when a cooler pipe pops off, etc. also check your afm readings on the pfc. may be that 1 of them has died, or the plug is faulty

this might sound stupid, but it just popped into my head that some of the price differences may simply be that some servos have higher running costs, so higher rents, bigger loans (so higher repayments), etc.

but that doesn't tell the age. i used to bite my fingernails so i could own a car for years and never even leave a mark under the door handle. yet the missus has long fingernails and could have it looking old in a year or 2. also interior doesn't mean much either. the way someone gets in and out of the car makes a huge difference to the wear on seats, etc. also how tall they are and how big they are. a fat person is going to put more wear on a seat than a skinny person, as is a short person compared to a tall person. a tell person will have the seat back further so not brush the side of the seat so much when they get out (depending on how far back they have it). also someone with big feet and who wears heavy shoes will wear the carpet faster than a woman who wears heals and takes them off to drive. basically for every way that you can think of to tell the age you can think of things that go against it. if you really want to tell how much work an engine has done (as this is more of an indication of age than how many kms because of the city vs highway driving) you need to open the engine up. cars need to have an hours reader like heavy machinery does. gives you a better indication of how much work it's done, because if you spend an hour a day idling in traffic the odometer isn't moving but the engine is wearing

the 1.3x rule applies to tyre width, not wheel size. there are not rules as far as rim diameter goes, provided that the outside diamater isn't more than 15mm smaller or larger than the standard diameter of the wheel and tyre, and the tyres must have the same load rating (or higher) also that link to the NSW RTA states that you can only go a rim 26mm wider than the widest rim on the tyre placard without needing to get it signed off on by a signatory. and the widest you can go is only 2" wider. so that means you could only go a 8.5" wide rim on a 33 gts-t, etc. qld however only uses the 1.3x rule for tyres (plus load ratings) and the +15mm diamter rule. no rim width rule.