mad082

as someone said, it could be a manifold gasket, or a broken manifold stud (that is a pretty common thing). then you will only get the noise when it comes on boost as before that there isn't enough pressure to force the gap open and have it make the noise. just check that all the exhaust manifold studs are there and have nuts on them, and also try moving the turbo on the manifold (had that come loose on my 180sx)

i'm not a big fan of using pressure cleaners in the engine bay. too mych pressure and if you have a brittle hose you can damage it and end up with problems

if you were to be using the same compound tyre etc, but 10mm skinnier then there is going to be a difference on performance. and it won't always be bad, but there will be some negatives. overall you are losing 40mm of tyre (assuming you need the tyres for both front and rear). which is nearly 5% negatives of skinnier tyres: less traction off the line less grip when cornering and braking go off quicker positives of skinnier tyres: less rolling resistance (faster acceleration once traction is no longer an issue and higher top speed) lighter (again, faster acceleration) (yes i know that the weight difference will be minimal but every little bit helps in a race) come up to temp quicker (so more grip earlier)

well there are a few ways to do this. first of all, if you have a pod, cover it with a plastic bag. you don't want any dust or water getting through it. first option is to get an airgun for a compressor and just blow all the dust out. this wan't get all of it out but will get most of it out and then you could just wipe everything off with a damp rag. the other option is to hose if out. if doing this you definately want to remove the coil pack cover if it is still on (would be wise to remove it if using the air gun method too). make sure the engine is cold when hosing it. then once you have hosed it out you would want to use an airgun to blow any water out from around the coils otherwise you will get a missfire for a while until all the water dries out.

ok, well the missfire isn't going to be helped by having a broken breather hose. i would go to your spare parts store and take the old hose in and get a piece of hose as close to the original as possible. then i would look at the coil packs. they are probably stuffed and the major cause of the missfire. as for the idle not being any good when the aircon is turned on, i would clean the AAC and IAC valves. do a search on here and you should find info on where they are located and how to clean them

i have only played halo 1 as i don't play my xbox very often. i saw the review of this game on good game the other night. that's all i have to add to this thread, LOL

have you checked that the bulbs are actually installed?

i see what you did there, LOL. sure, base it of a 360 degree rotation. that means you halve the displacement of a 4 stroke and the rotaries get to stay at 1.3L, LOL

sure, kenny from the block, but yours is an ADM gtr which you will have to let me take for a drive when you move east

plenty of people also run 5w-50, but i wouldn't bother unless you plan on doing track days or going to the drags

i should add that they will measure the displacement with 1 rotation of the crank (well half actually since they only need to measure 1 cylinder), but since it it doesn't expell any gas until the last half of the second rotation they don't take into account the second stroke, and why should they? it would be like me selling you 1L of oil but charging you for 2 because i had tipped a second litre of oil over the bottle to make it 2L

well if you are talking capacity as total volume then no piston engine is what it is quoted and even when you said that a 2.6L engine is a 5.2L after a full cycle you are incorrect. it would be bigger because when the piston is at TDC there is still a gap between the piston and the head (combustion chamber). however the motoring world usually talks about engine displacement (although they may use the word capacity) as the displacement is the amount of air able to be displaced by the piston (so the volume), and since a 4 stroke engine only actually only displaces this air every second stroke a 2.6L engine is just a 2.6L engine. and this is the exact reason why when 2 stroke motorbikes race against 4 stroke bikes they are usually put in with bikes of twice the capacity as they both displace the same amount of air.

unlike r32 owners who think their cars are worth squillions even though they are underpowered and dated, but hey, they are 20kg lighter...... LOL *puts on flame suit

maybe try putting the r32 actuator side by side with the r34 one to see if they are the same size (length). you may just need to bend the mounting bracket a bit to make it sit a bit better and hold the wastegate shut better

i would try playing around with the actuator first to try and get it working properly first. but if you can't be stuffed then just put the old one back on with the boost controller

then you need to learn more about how power is made and tuning. take a stock ecu powered skyline and look at the air/fuel ratios. they will be down around 10:1. plug in an aftermarket ecu, copy across the maps, leave the timing the way it is but remove some of the fuel to get an AFR of around 12:1 and you will make more power. a very basic way to look at it is like this: if you light a fire then dump 10L of fuel on the fire, the fire will probably go out because it has been smothered before it could burn all the fuel. take the same fire and tip on half a litre of the same fuel and you will get a fireball. of course with all the advances of technology the newer engines have better designed heads, etc so they flow air better so can make more power for the same amount of airflow and fuel as there is less restriction.

i would like to know how you justify this, when talking about a 4 stroke engine. because a 4 stroke engine will only take in air every 2 rotations. so it takes air/fuel in (down stroke) compresses the mixture (up stroke) and that is 1 rotation of the crank. then it fires the spark plug and ignites the mixture and pushes the piston down (down stroke) and then pushes the mixture out the exhaust valve on the next up stroke. so unless 4 stroke engines take in extra air on the compression stroke (which they don't) then it is 2.6L per full cycle.

only problem is that if the turbo lets go it can take the engine with it

where you put the controller on a 32 is the same as on a 33, just ignore any reference to the solenoid. there will be a hose from the cooler piping to the wastegate actuator and that's where you put the controller. what exhaust, etc are you running? that is going to be the biggest factor. if you are running stock exhaust then i wouldn't raise the boost much at all, maybe 1 psi. since we are coming into the hotter months i wouldn't be going too much higher on the stock cooler either. if you don't drive it hard then you can get away with higher boost, but if you regularly give it the beans then i would be thinking about going a fmic as the stock cooler does suffer from heat soak rather quickly

running 13psi through the stock cooler probably isn't the wisest thing in the world to start with, and that may be part of the problem. other possible causes: boost controller issue dump pipe issue (what size exhaust do you have) boost leak blocked or damaged cat fuel or timing issue

if you are only on your p's then (without knowing what state you are from) that is probably going to rule out turbo cars. this is then going to dramatically reduce the cars available to you as most NA skylines cost more than turbo ones. with that budget you are going to be looking at the lower end of quality and may be better off getting something else as a daily run around and save up for something better.

the ones that go to the stock o2 sensor: to see if your o2 sensor is functioning properly, and to look pretty. you can also use it to drive more economically. wideband setup: for tuning purposes

sure they are making them more powerful, but they also a few hundred kg heavier than they were a few years back. also they are getting more powerful but also getting more fuel efficient. they sort of go hand in hand. lean the car off a bit and you will make more power.

yeah the brakes are vaccum assisted. and if you ever drive a car without power assisted brakes you will realise just how bad they are and wonder how people raced cars without them. where i used to work had a 1954 (i think) morris minor panel van as a work car. and it was drum all round. sitting at traffic lights on a slight incline you had to wedge your knee under the steering wheel to help you apply as much pressure as possible to stop yourself rolling (handbrake didn't do squat). you could jump on the brakes as hard as you could at 20kmh and not lock up the wheels, even if you pumped the brakes a few times first to build up some pressure. that thing didn't even have sychros in the gearbox with the original gearbox (then got a datsun 1200 motor and box put in), LOL. i kept trying to get the boss to get a 120y disc brake conversion done but he wouldn't. air-bags i can see the advantage of and have never thought of them as something to make me a better driver. i always see them more as something to help me survive is some twat slams into me. as for ABS, i have had it kick in before in a few different cars and it can be both good and bad. in a racing situation where you are going into a corner a good driver will be able to prevent major lockup most of the time (will still have the odd lockup). however that is because they have their mind on the job and are focused. however in everyday application if a kid runs out in front of the car or something like that, there is a good chance that you will panic and just jump on the brakes as hard as you can and a large portion of rational thought goes out the window so if the wheels lock up you aren't going to have the idea to let off the brakes a bit to let the wheels roll again to let the brakes do their job properly. in a panic situation you just keep pressing the pedal harder and harder, LOL

i know this is going to start a shit storm, but you can make a short shifter simply by cutting down the stock shifter. it's simple physics. by the way, anyone who doesn't agree, feel free to argue this because i have diagrams and pictures proving i am right, LOL. had this arguement many many times before.