mad082

except i don't have a skyline, LOL although the guy that bought my 33 off me (who lives on the goldy) put a gtr badge on it, LOL

ummm, i don't ever recall fast showing the engine number of the car. and after looking through the fast thread i can't find anything either. but i will have a play around on fast leter on and see if i can find anywhere in there that shows it

haven't gotten around to putting the eyelids back on yet? or not going to? i like it better without the lower ones on there

yes driving a turbo car on your p's is bad, mmmkay. however if you decide to ignore all the advice given here about not driving a turbo car, then go the 33. they will make boost the earliest (full boost by well under 3000rpm on stock turbo), are quicker than a 32, more modern looking interior and exterior, not as old and nicer to drive. i have driven and been in a few different imports (r32, r33, ceffy, 180sx with both CA and SR) and i must say that the least impressive were the ceffy and r32, both being powered by turbo rb20s. the r32 had a bigger turbo, pfc, etc and was making 5hp less than my stock turbo and ecu r33, but felt much less powerful. there was nothing below about 4000rpm. then he put a smaller turbo on to get a bit more response and it was better but would still get beaten by a stock rb25 with the boost wound up a bit. the ceffy was stock except for a catback exhaust, and when we went down to willowbank my 3.5L v6 magna with just catback exhaust was quicker, as was an EA falcon, LOL. silvia/200sx would be my second pick after the 33. they are nice light little cars with decent power and torque. they handle very well. even the old s13 with a ca18 in it aren't bad cars. i would own a CA powered s13 over a r32. i just don't really like the r32. interior reminds me of a VN commodore, and they aren't exactly powerful. even though they have more power than a s13 sr20 (only about 7kw), they put out less torque and are in a car that weighs 100kg more. sure you can drop a rb25 into a 32, but you might as well just buy a r33 to start with. they are cheaper due to being more common, and already have the better motor, plus bigger brakes, etc.

just wait until it gets taken to the council auctions and go buy it. my brother in law bought an 80's model corona (rwd one) for $100 at the council auctions, and it only got up to that much because it had a celica 5spd in it and there was a guy from the wreckers there bidding on it as well.

with the water pump it is also the fact that as they get older they do start to wear the impellor. so while it may seem to be working, it might only be working at 60% efficiency, which might be enough to keep temps low enough, but once it gets a little bit more worn it might not pump any water. the "if it ain't broke don't touch it" mentality could be taken to every part of the car. why change the oil if it is still full? why change your tyres even though they are bald but still hold air?

yep that's it. try somewhere like repco or autobarn should sell them (or be able to order you one if they don't have 1 in stock)

especially if it's an auto............... like the 2 dickwits in gympie......

in fact you will find that people have adapted wankel engines into ultralights, and that is what i was meaning by rotaries in aircraft. i am well aware of the radial engines being used in other aircraft.

i disagree with the 2 stroke thing (not saying that are a 4 stroke either). i see them as a single stroke because at no point does the rotor become stationary like a piston. also while i can see the 3:1 shaft difference, and engine difference, you still can't really compare the 2. they are 2 different things that do the same job in 2 different ways. the wankel makes good power for what it is. you can go on about how it is "like" a 3.9L 2 stroke 6 cylinder, but realistically they are nothing alike. something you also have to take into account is the differences in leverage of the cumbustion forces on the 2 types of engines. also the examples sydneykid used of the f1 car and indy car, etc are probably the most pointless examples i have seen. sure, lets compare an engine that probably costs millions of dollars to build to an engine someone has built on a much smaller budget. at the end of the day, it is horses for courses. the debate is going to go on forever, just like the fwd/rwd debate as well as the v6 vs the straight 6 debate. in the next decade or so it will be a debate between petrol engines vs diesel vs electric. people are always going to find something to debate over.

the chicken and the egg bit is pretty much spot on. however if shops only stocked local made stuff, you would just have more stuff being privately imported. closing the borders to imports would result in 100% employment, however would result in a dramatic drop in products available unless they were able to be made under licence. basically the only way for australian prices to compete with imports is to drop the prices of everything. this includes labour. so if you want australian shops to sell the same stuff as overseas at the same prices, then convince everyone to take a paycut. basically it is a cycle that it going to continue for ever. everytime people get a payrise the prices of goods are going to have to go up for businesses to be able to afford to pay the extra wages. this then prompts people to want another pay rise, which then rises prices again. a prime example of this is the USA. sure they have cheap prices for good, but look at the minimum wages. the US federal minimum wage is $7.25 (some states are higher while some are lower. thie highest is around $8.40), where as here in australia it is $14.31. to put that into context, a company employing 4 full time staff in australia has to make $123,285.80 a year profit just to pay the staff if they are on the minimum wage (that includes super). now if you go off the average profit margin of around 35%, that means that the business has to sell over $350,000 worth of goods before they have even made enough profit to pay any other bills. now compare that to the US. 4 staff will cost $62461.36, which means that a company can sell stuff and run at 20$ profit and after selling $350,000 worth of product (which would be easier due to having will have 15 times the population) will have made just over $6500 more profit.

as far as i'm aware they shouldn't match. the reason being that the VIN number specifies things such as model, variant and some options. the engine is just what model engine it is and then a build number

nice and side on pics?

you could just leave the 25 loom in there not plugged into anything, however it will make things a bit messy and tight in some spots (like through the firewall)

you could always buy a proper o2 sensor revmoving tool and then it will come out rather easily

it is pretty simple. take 1 empty coke bottle (cleaned first) cut the base off remove radiator cap sit coke bottle upside down in radiator cap hole fill coke bottle about half way up with water or coolant or a mixture of both run engine for a while with the bottle sitting there opening the bleed screw while doing this would also get a lot more air out than just opening it normally.

i would be checking on the legal side of things of just putting in a stock rb30e. i don't know if you will be able to do it because you are fitting an older motor to a newer car. it may be easier to just buy a second hand turbo motor and dropping that in while you do the rebuild. should be able to pick one up reasonably cheaply since you don't need to buy the gearbox, loom (if you get the same series as your current motor), etc. or if your current engine is still going but you just wanted to rebuild it, leave it in there and rebuild the motor you buy. saves the hassle of changing motors twice

since i don't have the laptop hooked up to the car at the moment i can't give you a step by step walk through, but you need a program that has an option for setting the base idle. i know that one of the programs i use can do it, but can't remember which one (i have ecutalk, datascan and another one). i think it is in datascan. it has an active tests are, and i think in there is has a button that lets you set the base idle. it locks the timing at 15 degrees and locks the IAC so that when you turn the idle screw the ecu doesn't compensate to keep the revs at the ideal level. that is where you want to go to check the timing. then you just get the timing light hooked up and use it as normal.

when you get the radiator cleaned/buy a new one, also fit a new thermostat at the same time, just to be on the safe side.

well the fact that people have used rotaries in aircraft means that they can't be that unreliable personally i hate the sound of a NA rotary. don't mind the sound of a turbo one on song though.

all the imprezas are now AWD, not just the upper models. you have to go back quite a few years to get a fwd, but that would put you at around the same years as the skylines. so you would do the comparisons as follows GX = GT WRX = GT-T/GTS-t STI = GTR i'm suprised at how people ignored the non turbo skylines. if you really wanted to you could say that the very base model impreza is like the rb20 powered skylines, the next model up (RX i think it is) is the rb25 powered, etc. while the STI may have been tuned up, does it have a larger displacement than the base model wrx? yes (in some models). does the gtr have a bigger motor that the gts-t? yes. also you have to take into account the cost. the wrx probably isn't that much different in cost when new to a gts-t, and i'd say that the gtr probably costs as much, if not more than an sti.

but it isn't the local guys who are the reason for the higher prices. as i explained above, there are many reasons why the prices are higher, and in a lot of cases it just isn't viable for either the shop or the importer to drop their prices. at least not to drop them enough to make a difference. and as it is, car parts generally work of a relatively small mark up compared to things like clothing and jewelery that make anywhere from 2 to 5 or even 10 times the amount of profit for an item selling at the same price.

best bet is to either look on the vic roads website or go into your local RTA and ask

you will only get road tubes with presta valve (french valve). yes there is an adapter to make them a car valve. they should only cost a dollar or 2. they are a brass adapter that screws on. as for good tubes, pretty much any tube will do. with those tyres, don't go for any lightweight tubes. go for somthing like CST, innova, maxxis, tioga, etc. basically any brand from a bike shop ecxept swallow. they are shit tubes, LOL. something like the michelin airstop butyl are a good tube. not too thin and made of better quality rubber.

i don't really think there would be much of a difference in wiring etc between a neo and non neo motor. may be a few extra wires, but sweet FA in the scheme of things.