mad082

before you go doing any upgrades i strongly suggest you do some more research as it appears you have little knowledge about cars. for starters, what you are thinking is an intercooler is simply the condenser for the air condition. every car with aircon has one. as for your tps wiring, i'm not entirely sure what you mean. can't see what you mean from your pic. for the o2 sensor, if it's the wires on the sensor side of things that are damaged, just buy a new sensor. if it's on the loom side of the plug then simply cut the wires and rejoin them. if you want to put a bigger turbo on then you will need bigger injectors, ecu (which you will need to run the bigger injectors), afm, fuel pump, a front mount intercooler, and full turbo back exhaust. plus you need to choose a turbo that will suit your needs/wants. if you go too big then it will be crap to drive on a day to day basis. if you go too small then there isn't much point doing the upgrade.

size difference was minimal (speed difference between gps and speedo isn't really any different to before, so maybe a 1% difference in size), but the difference in the way the car drives is noticable. the car accelerates better, brakes better, requires less throttle to hold speed on the highway and coasts for longer when you lift off and the exhaust note is different. you can barely hear the exhaust on the highway now. given that the new tyres and wheels are lighter, and the contact patch of the tyres is drastically smaller, it isn't suprising there was a gain in economy. with the 18's on the contact patch was roughly equivalent to having an extra tyre. that's a fair bit of extra rolling resistance.

or take the coil cover off, hose away to your hearts content, then get an air gun and blow all the water out of the coil valley and then go for a decent drive to boil off any left over water before you put the cover back on.

yeah from your budget i'd go the r34 gt-t. you won't find a r33 gtr worth buying for 15k.

yeah plenty of good cars aren't popular, and plenty of ordinary cars are popular. often this will simply come down to the amount of styling mods, etc, available and not because the car is nicer to drive than others.

this has been covered many times. a quick search will get you a world of thoughts and opinions

yeah go check it out and see for yourself. sometimes things are exactly what they seem, sometimes they arent (for both good and bad)

plenum is the intake chamber (the bit the throttle body bolts to). and leaning out is bad. it means too much air and not enough fuel. this eventually leads to engine failure

5k is cheap, but if it is making that much power and he's only asking 5k for it then it will have problems. plus it has a home made front facing plenum out of the stock plenum. that's a good way to lean out the rear cyclinders

yeah i hardly think that "too much rear end grip" would be a complaint to many people who toyota were aiming this car at.

it's funny how the supposed flaws on the new 86 were what made the old 86 popular (and it's flaws were even bigger). i think the expectations of the 86 were much greater than what was ever going to be delivered and that is where the dissatisfaction is coming from. and now seeing that the price is much lower than expected it is simple to see why it is more of a let down than expected. had the price tag been 10k higher (with spec to match) then i think there would be better much reviews.

i recently changed the wheels on my vt commodore from the 18's it had on it when i bought it to a set of 15's i had sitting around (hit a rock on the highway and damaged a rim and tyre, so just bought new 15's instead of new 18's and getting the rim fixed). anywho, going from the 18's with 235 tyres to 15's running 205 tyres has knocked about 0.5L/100kms off my fuel usage. i'm now down to under 8.5L/100kms

if you simply want rwd (i'm guessing you want to do skids, otherwise you'd be silly to want to run the gtr as rwd), then simply sell your car and buy a gts-t, then spend the extra money doing mods. don't bother with putting a rb26 in, because for much less money you could put in a rb25 and do mods to be putting out much more power than a rb26 for the same budget. or buy a gtr as said above.

yeah surely the tool would've recieved a mega bonus for winning the WDC.

you haven't been to the drags much have you? i was having traction issues with about 180hp (so about 135kw) in my magna. a mate of mine had a sr20 in a sigma and with street slicks he was lifting one of the front wheels off the ground when launching and he only had about 250hp. he was simply holding it on the rev limiter and pretty much just side stepping the clutch. his 60' times were around 1.5 seconds.

1: it's the tps and nothing is connected there 2: yes it's the charcoal canister and there is no point going to all the trouble of disconnecting it

if you haven't rebuilt it then it may have had a head gasket replaced and the head shaved a bit (as happens when replacing a head gasket)

if you don't put your tips in it uses your previous tips. and there is some bonus points, which is how you go so many points. if you don't include the previous race winner in your top 10 you get 40 bonus points. so since maldanado won in spain (or wherever it was), if you didn't have him in your top 10 you immediately got 40 points. i was annoyed that i had webber to win then changed it at the last second.

as above, nothing to worry about with those results

if you are running proper drag slicks then you need to run 'front runners', which are different to space saver tyres. front runners are a cross ply tyre (as are drag slicks) and the space savers are a radial. all dragways will require you to run front runners with drag slicks. from what i gather, with radial tyres on the front the car will handle poorly at speed because the front tyres handle differently to the rears.

what size tyres and rims are you running? this will determine what pressure you should run. long story short though, pump your fronts up by about 5psi and let your rears down about 10psi.

um, you haven't posted up your power

that's what it is. generally caused by a faulty sensor, or a short in the wiring. never heard of it coming on for the reason it is intended

+1 for thermostat. will almost certainly be the cause. even on a cold night, driving on the highway the temp should stay in the centre of the gauge. put a new one in and it will run hotter (in this case that's a good thing) which will probably make it run better and get better fuel economy.

have you checked the tips of the sparkplugs?