mad082

yeah there are plenty of industries where the 'guru's know little about their equipment.

rich and retard won't cause the car to go into limp mode. from what i'm aware the rb20 doesn't even have rich and retard in the same way as the r33 does. i'd say that your problem (both your R&R and limp mode) is more likely caused by a dodgy afm. but as above, you may be leaning out with that turbo on the stock ecu, which may actually be what your R&R is. first thing to do would be to put it on a dyno and check it's still all good.

i didn't notice any difference in lag when i put the fmic on my 33, or onto a mates 33. any difference in spool time would've been minimal, almost hard to measure without fancy equipment. having said that, someone using a cheap, nasty ebay spec cooler then they may see a bigger difference, but both me and my mate were using hybrid tube and fin coolers. i should also note (for the sake of anyone else reading this wondering about the effectiveness of a front mount intercooler vs stock cooler), that even on a cool night, with some spirited driving i could get the whole stock intercooler to feel quite warm, yet with my front mount, even with a lot of spirited driving, such as a few mins on the skid pan which is low speed, high throttle, the engine side of the intercooler was still much cooler than the turbo side.

try ringing an import wreckers. and may i ask why you are going back to the stock interheater?... i mean intercooler.

something else to look at when inspecting the clutch is the clutch fork pivot bolt. i had a mate with a r33 with similar issues to what you are seeing and it wasn't because of damage to the clutch, but damage to the clutch fork pivot bolt. the head had snapped off, so the fork wasn't able to fully disengage the clutch, etc. i had a damaged pivot bolt in my 33 as well, but it snapped off at the base and the result was that the clutch just went to the floor and stayed there

yeah as above, it is good practice to assume that the majority of imports in this country have fake kms on the clock. i'm sure there are some genuine ones, but plenty aren't. and it's only a scam if the person currently selling the car is the one who changed the odometer. if they bought the car from an importer with the 83,000kms on the clock, thinking they were genuine, then they are just another victim.

don't worry about the kms on the clock, especially an auto non turbo. the kms on the clock are often false. and yes an auto skyline is fine to drive. by no means fast, but fine to drive.

yeah i'd just go a cheap intercooler kit made from alloy. unless you own an exhaust shop or have access to a pipe bender for free, one of those cheap kits is going to cost you less.

first try popping it out. use a broom handle or something like that and see if you can pop it out from under the car. or have a look in your local yellow pages for someone that does bumper repairs. if you can pop it out, then you can touch up any paint damage with a can of touch up paint from your local auto parts store

what makes you think it is what's ruined it? and what was ruined? in most cases, having a heap of crap in the fuel filter when you start using e10 is the biggest cause of problems. i've been using e10 for many years and never had a problem. have done about 40,000kms over the past 12 months using it and never had a problem. but that is in a commodore with now over 240,000kms on the clock

you can call it what you like, but to say that putting a fmic on a car with stock turbo and ecu suddenly becomes a lag monster (which you pretty much implied in your earlier post) is a bigger load of bullshit. meanwhile, someone who likes giving their car a boost regularly when driving will benefit from a larger intercooler. the stock cooler suffers from heat soak very quickly and easily. you won't really gain power from a fmic, but you won't lose power like you will with a stock cooler. do 5 or 6 dyno runs with a stock cooler and then do the same with a fmic and there will be a greater difference in power with the stock cooler as the intake temps increase from it's lack of cooling

try putting a new thermostat in

sorry brah. i'll just go back to wasteland

don't be turned off doing a fmic install because of those guys talking about extra lag. the difference is sweet bugger all. a front mount intercooler may add extra volume than the stock cooler, but a decent cooler will flow better than the stock one so what it loses in having to fill a larger space it makes up for by allowing air to flow faster

pretty sure their base fuel isn't any higher than here, they just have a premium fuel that is higher than what we have here. so they still have 91 octane fuel over there.

wouldn't it more come down the quality of the stream, rather than the power of your computer? if the stream is only a low quality video stream then you can't do much to make it better, in the same way that the hd version of a channel will always have a better quality picture than it's sd version

+1 for the above. no point wasting money on higher octane fuels. if you want higher octane then run an E10 that is 94/95 octane as it won't cost you any extra

it also indicates low brake fluid, which can also be an indication that your brake pads are low. check the brake fluid level. if it's low then also check your brake pads, because the lower the pads get, the more fluid is in the calipers and less in the reseviour. if the pads are low then only put a small amount of brake fluid in to get the light to go away, otherwise when you put new pads in you may end up with brake fluid overflowing when you force the pistons back into the caliper

you won't see a stock intercooler in the engine bay. radiator yes, intercooler no and i have no idea on the tps wiring. my 33 had a series 2 engine so it had a different tps setup to yours.

yeah the big problem with f1 cars is that the closer they get to the car in front, the slower they get, as you often see by a car that can catch the car in front by a second a lap, but the moment they get within a few car lengths they end up going as slow as the car in front, then spend 10 laps trying to get past. then when they do get past they dissapear off into the distance. drs helps the fast guys get past. if it is an even battle, then if they get past with the drs then on the next lap they may get overtaken back once they get to the drs zone again.

How do you think they would feel without drs when they get in the slipstream of the car in front and the car in front just pulls away? At least with drs the slower cars have a chance to keep up. from what i saw, the majority of drs passes in Canada were done with ease, so without drs those passes would've just been braking zone passes, but still done with ease. The passing car was already right on the gearbox of the car I'm front before they got to the activation zone. There was no long range passes like we have seen previously

it could still have an r34 intercooler in there, as the r34 intercooler sits in the same place as the r33 one, it's just a touch bigger.

All i can see in your pic of the radiator is the radiator (black) and the ac condenser (silver) in front if it. The lack of thermo fan could simply mean that it has been in a minor fender bender, or it was removed for some reason. The stock 33 and 34 intercoolers are in front of the passengers side front wheel. If you look in there you will see the inner guard has a vent in it and you can see the cooler through it

I never knew you could adjust the high beams. Have you made sure the bulbs are in properly?

lewis = penalty is the same as 300zx = engine out