mad082

if it's a gts-t, then most likely yes. there is a simple way to test it though. jack the car up so both back wheels are off the ground. have the car in neutral with the handbrake off (so wedge something on both sides of the front wheels to stop the car moving). then spin one of the wheels. the direction that the other wheel turns will tell you if it's a LSD or not (this doesn't apply to all diff types though). if the opposite wheel spins the same way as you are spinning the wheel then it's a LSD. if the opposite wheel spins the opposite direction to the way you are spinning the wheel then it's an open diff

i'll answer 3 of your questions, which haven't been answered simply (one was answered in a long winded post that really missed the point). 5: no it won't damage the engine running high boost mode all the time. 6: the reason why people with honda's, etc, rev to 7000rpm before shifting is because they can. the skyline engines are small, high reving engine too, which is why the rev limit is 7000 to 7500rpm, unlike something like a commodore or falcon that only revs to 5000 to 5500rpm. so while you can rev to 7000rpm before shifting, just like the people you are seeing, it will also increase engine wear and fuel consumption, just like the people you are seeing. if you want to accelerate as quickly as possible then reving the engine out will achieve this, however if you want to save some fuel and be more kind to your car, then change gears earlier. the rev limit of the car is what the car makers considered to be the maximum safe rpm of the engine. this doesn't mean that you should rev it up to there every time you change gears, or should drive on the highway redlining 2nd gear, but it also doesn't mean that the engine will suddenly explode if you rev the engine up to redline when accelerating.

as has been said, just buy the car you want. for the cost of what you want to do your car, you could simply buy a white manual skyline and keep your car silver and auto and have 2 cars.

Will be interesting to see what gear ratios the teams choose for monza next wee, given how last year in the drs zone the mercs were walking past the teams with shorter ratios. I doubt we will see redbull near the front next week

Maldonado showing his talent as usual......

Webber got a better start than bieber. Who'd have thunk it

you forgot to mention that they 'patented/copyrighted' rounded edges/corners.

is that the 33 with the white wheels? i saw it at coles just after 5. there are a few other white ones round town though. and a couple of black ones (the owner of 1 of them has posted in here a few times)

this. the later the wastegate opens, the higher the pressure will be when it opens. if you restrict how much boost pressure the wastegate sees then the end result is higher pressure on the cooler piping side than on the wastegate side. which is exactly how a boost controller works. or if you complete block the hole it will give you unlimited boost. a few simple way to increse the boost on a car with a restrictor in the hose to the wastegate is to solder the restrictor closed and then drill a smaller hole in it. in the case of the r33 gts-t, the solenoid that they have bleeds off air between the cooler piping and the wastegate, so the wastegate sees less pressure.

if the iphones were cheap and kept breaking it wouldn't be quite so bad, but they are pretty much the most expensive phone on the market, yet the most unreliable. Just shows how much more effort was put into marketing than phone design

as ash said, there are very few for sale threads that go past 1 page. and the whole point of not allowing editing of for sale threads was to stop dodgy traders advertising something and then selling something different and then changing the post afterwards to what he actually sold to make it look like it is the buyers fault for reading their post wrong. or simply deleting their post all together

he lives up the road from me. his flatmate has a silver r33 with fading paint, but a big turbo that i can hear whistling everytime he drives past (even at light throttle). sounds nice

restricting the boost line will increase the boost pressure, not reduce it. restricting it is what a boost controller does to increase the boost.

my boss dropped his iphone 4 on the weekend and smashed his screen (i know it's a rare occurance, lol). he said today that he doesn't think he will get an iphone 5 because of the different plug. would mean he would have to get a new car charger, ipod dock, etc.

as above, if he could ruin a bush with a pen then it was already cactus. as for the rest of it, if you have already paid for the roadworthy with that guy then you should just take it back with those things fixed, as i was under the impression that you didn't have to pay a second time for it. so if that's correct, you have the option of fixing the things and getting the rwc for what you have already paid, or paying a second time to possibly have the car failed for something else by a different workshop.

i'm in. but tell them that you just use the rb26 ecu with the rb25 wiring harness with a rb20 engine.

was it a genuine evo, or just another lancer with a bodykit? and regardless of whether the cops will pull you over, there's a good chance your insurance company will use it as an excuse to get out of paying should you have a crash

i've had some falken ziex tyres in the past. not sure if exactly the same ones, but i know that they were the worst tyre i've ever driven on in the wet, even when relatively new. so i'm guessing that it's a mix of shit tyres and going too fast into the round about. before i got new tyres on my wagon i could go into a wet round about at about 35kmh, light constant throttle and then just use the steering wheel to get the back out should i so choose to. all it would take is a small sudden adjustment. all it would take was moving my hand from say 5 o'clock to 6 o'clock.

yeah a locksmith could make a key for the boot (they will just need to get the number off the barrel of the lock in the boot). a slightly more expensive option would be to buy a new lock for the boot that matches the door and ignition keys (which a locksmith should also be able to organise)

there is a big thread somewhere on the forum that has all the info you will need. it may be in the forced induction section, i can't remember.

why wasn't the boot lock swapped when the boot was? would've made sense to use the old boot lock on the new boot to save things like this happening.

would be interesting to see how they handle. i think they would be different. i know it isn't really much of a comparison, but i've ridden on a few sets of full carbon bike rims and they are totally different to alloy rims. much stiffer/responsive

first layer takes the longest. how long the rest takes depends on how much machinery they have and how long they have to wait between loads of bitumen/ashphalt. but i'd think that it'd only take a few days per layer.

i doubt adjusting anything will help. all that would do is alter the alignment. the movement would be a uni joint or ball joint or something like that being flogged out and having play in it. if you are concerned, take it to your local suspension place and let them have a look.

it could just be the speed cut, but i'd have thought that 5500rpm in 5th is above 180kmh. i'd say that you are just not making enough power to overcome the drag. you'll need a lot more power to get to redline in 5th gear. when i still had access to the runway at the local airport my r33 topped out at about 6500rpm. but if you are getting a lower rev limit in 4th as well, then it's speed cut. my old 180sx hit the speed cut on the dyno at 7000rpm (500rpm below the rev limit)