mad082

there are companies who do that in australia as well. also, if you want to advertise your business, become a trader.

if you use a thin tape to tape it up you should be able to get the curve right, as well as cutting it with a craft knife

yeah that too, lol.

I go by this theory, but as i explained in my post above, sometimes getting them off by hand isn't possible because of position (such as being under a hit exhaust manifold). I only ever put them on by hand

Plenty of people run pure water with no issues.

2 of the big ones, and by tonight

Mate of mine is already there. Kent

If it doesn't have an external ignitor, then yes it's s2, and yes you can use a s1 engine in there, just use all the s2 electrics

Go to your local exhaust shop and ask them to make you up a system. Plain and simple

There was a virus affecting macs a while back.

I use different methods for different cars. My car is some of that non slip rubber matting and by hand, the missus car is the same, but sometimes requires the screwdriver trick because it's hard to get to. Mums car requires the screwdriver trick unless i have welders glove handy, due to the filter being under the exhaust manifold.

It sounds like you need to take it to a mechanic. For starters, have them drain all the extra trans fluid you put in so it didn't damage the gearbox (you can't just put in a bottle of fluid if it doesn't need it). Secondly, unless you had the gearbox off at the time, the screwdriver wouldn't get into the torque convertor. Thirdly, you should only use injector cleaner at the recommended dosage, and it won't just magically fix any problems straight away. It will take most of the tank of fuel to do anything, but those injector cleaners don't do much. You are best off having the injectors professionally cleaned.

if you can still make out the writing (you can on yours, but this comment is also for others wanting the stencil as well), simply mask up along the edges of the writing (and then tape up some newspaper obviously) and then you can spray it. just do a few light coats to minimalise the spray getting in under the tape between the fins. you could also make a stencil for future use if you wanted. simply mask it up, get a sheet of clear contact or sticker vinyl, stick it over the tape, get a craft knife and run it around the inside edge of the tape (making sure to leave little tabs to the inside of the A and the R so they always go back in the same spot every time). then pull it of and stick it back onto the backing, or some thin plastic. then simply cut out the stencil. or simply trace around on some tracing paper after masking up, and then you can trace it onto some contact to stick on next time you want to paint it.

plenty of more expensive tyres run wider tyres and have no issues in the wet. i've driven a 250kw skyline with 265s on the rear in the wet and it had more grip than my v6 manga had with 235 ziex tyres.

thanks for the useless post. lets point out a few of your faults so anyone who reads your post doesn't get misinformation, shall we? 1: none of us ever said to run till empty. 2: you can't accurately use the gauge for calculating fuel economy (without filling to full first). the reason being that the gauge isn't millimeter accurate. if you park your car on a slight hill it will alter where the gauge sits by a small amount. also driving the car around will make the gauge sit differently. i can hop in my car and the gauge will sit at 1/4 of a tank, but by the time i get 500m down the road it will be down to 1/8 of a tank. if i park on the flat and let it sit for 5 mins or so it will come back up to 1/4 of a tank. anywhere under 1/4 of a tank and the fuel light will come on when going uphill. the moment you get onto the flat again it will go out. plus the fact that a few litres of fuel won't make a noticable difference to where the needle sits on the gauge. that is why the gauge cannot be used to calculate economy. you are best off just filling to the top, resetting the trip meter, driving for a few hundred kms, filling to the top again and then calculating the economy. 3: you will find very few members getting better than 12L/100kms in start/stop traffic from a gtst. even a stock one. given than most people get 10 to 11L/100kms on the highway, you won't get it in heavy traffic. plenty of members will say they do city driving simply because they live in the city, but often half of their driving will be on motorways at anywhere from 60 to 100kmh, and that drastically alters the economy. if you can drive 5kms at a steady speed then you will get much better economy than someone going the same distance having to stop every few hundred metres. travelling at a steady 60kmh will usually yield better economy than 100kmh.

Not bad. We were looking at getting the bmc dealership at work, but decided against it (because of the outlay required to do it). We were also looking at doing colnago but decided not to for the same reason

yeap, that is why when race cars run leaner they go slower, and when they want to go fast, they go full rich.

if it is a manual, then you need a new clutch. but you would be best off taking it to a mechanic and getting them to diagnose the problem for you, as your description of the problem isn't all that clear.

if it's a manual, then slipping clutch is your issue. if it's an auto, it's most likely low on transmission fluid. remember to check the auto trans fluid when the car is warm and running while in park.

it's probably still better than wd40, but not gear. As long as you wipe off the excess, which will attract dirt and make your chain wear out faster

so a bit of a late reply, but i'll do it anway. there are a few posts to reply to. until you get used to lower bars you will always get neck aches. i did on my first ride back after 4 months off the bike. there are a few things that can help. first is not wearing sunnies if it means you have to lift your head up higher. i've stopped wearing sunnies when riding for this reason. well i wear them to start with but then take them off after a little while and put them in my jersey pocket, especially if i'm planning on spending a bit of time in the drops. also wearing a helmet with a peak means you have to tilt your head back a bit more too. and cheaper, heavier helmets also increase the strain on your neck. that's a big old no on the aerosol chain lubes, especially if you have a bike with disc brakes. the pads on bikes are extremely sensitive to contaminants and it's very easy to get overspray on the rotor. even degreaser can cause issues. one of the best cable lubes i've ever come across is a shimano lube, but they don't make it anymore. thankfully i've still got 2 bottles of it. at work we use a custom lube that we make ourselves, so it's a bit of a secret recipe, but fork oil works pretty will as a cable lube, as do dry chain lubes (especially for mtbing). as for chain lubes, the rock and roll lubes are good (the gold is the best all round lube), but for road use i'd have to go with the finishline ceramic road lube. it is a little bit messy, but it makes the chain silky smooth and quiet (because it is rather thick). that is what i use on my road bikes. the only experience i have with the muc-off products is their bike cleaner. it is good stuff. you spray it on, let it sit, then hose it off. but at work we use a mild degreaser in a spray bottle (koala care brand, get it in a range of sizes from supercheap). spray it on (don't get it on disc rotors or pads), give any thick bits of grease a scrub and then hose it of, then give the bike a wash with carwash. for cleaning/lubing a chain, you shouldn't need to do it for the first few hundred kms (unless you are mtbing, and then you can still get away with not doing it if you are careful). the lube that is in the chain from new is good stuff and cleanign your chain will wash this out, as will most lubes. the best thing for cleaning a chain is a proper chain cleaner/scrubber. they start from $20 or $30. you simply but the cleaning substance in the scrubber, clip it over the chain, pedal backwards for a bit and then pull the scrubber off and hose the chain off. let it sit for a while to dry and put the lube on while pedalling backwards, then grab a rag, hold it around the chain and pedal backwards to wipe all the excess lube off the chain. trek madone 4 series, or a 5 series if you can find one on special for old seasons stock or stretch the budget a bit higher. you will find other brands with similar spec'd bikes for less, but in most cases they won't ride as nicely (someone who hasn't done much riding won't really notice the difference though). to replace a flat bar with drop bars you only need new shifters, but they need to be the same setup as the ones you remove. since your bike is only a 7 speed, you won't find any 7 speed road shifters around these days. you can get basic 8 speed ones (shimano 2200), but most are 9 or 10 speed ones. so you would be up for a full drivetrain upgrade, including rear wheel (yours would most likely be a screw on freewheel and all 8, 9 and 10 speed stuff uses a cassette system). plus the cost of a set of shifters alone make this a bit of an expensive excercise. you are looking at a few hundred dollars for even a basic set. you would be better off buying a basic road bike.

there are plenty of cheap aluminium radiators on the net. they will do the job just fine. you can have the radiator professionally cleaned (as said above), but the cost of doing this is often not far off the cost of a cheap radiator. worth giving your local radiator place a call to ask them how much to clean it. as for the water coming out with the hose but not with just the engine running, that could be a water pump issue, (even though you said you put a new pump in). or a thermostat issue. or just the tank being blocked so much that the pump can't flow enough water by itself

could be. i'd be looking at replacing the fuel filter to start with (cheap and easy to do). might be worth throwing a set of new plugs in as well (copper plugs aren't very expensive)

less revs sort of, more boost no. the more air/boost that goes in, the more fuel that also goes into the engine. the key to fuel economy isn't about rpm, it's about throttle position. the less throttle you use, the less fuel you will use. you can rev it out to 4000rpm at light throttle and use less fuel than someone flooring it and only reving to 3000rpm. using light throttle will keep the ecu on closed loop (using the o2 sensor to keep the AFR between 14:1 and 15:1). when you put your foot down a bit further the ecu goes to the standard mapping, so at the same rpm your AFR will drop down to below 12:1, plus the fact that there will be more air going in as well, which means more fuel as well.

how long were you overseas for? how long ago was it last filled with fuel? if you were overseas for a while then it may just be stale fuel.