mad082

+1 for thermostat. it is the only thing that will make it run cold. this also makes the engine not come up to normal operating temp so it will be running on cold start enrichment and may well be ignoring the o2 sensor. this results in poor fuel economy. put a new thermostat in and you will see better fuel economy straight away. it will probably drive a bit better as well

you got me on a good day, so i won't just post things like the above people (normally i would). i'll explain to you why it is a bad idea to pull the turbo off. turbo engines run lower compression than the non turbo versions. this is to account for the extra air being forced in by the turbo. this means that if you pull the turbo off a turbo motor it will make less power than the non turbo version. so what you would end up with is a car making roughly the same power as a hyundai excel (and i'm not joking) but weighs about 300kg more. as for dropping a natro motor in its place, well as people have said, the car is still registered as a turbo, so no dice. plus the fact that it's a waste of time and money.

how long is a piece of string? you have a r33 now. the r34 isn't much different. all the same principles apply to the r34 as to the r33. did you do research on what to look for before you bought your r33? if so, just do the same with the r34.

it's is a pretty simple thing to do. you either need a big spanner/shifter or a proper o2 sensor socket. then unplug the o2 sensor (the sensor on the dump pipe if you aren't sure), undo it, screw the new one in, plug it in and bob's your uncle

nissan put the stock bov where it is for a reason. when the bov opens the air keeps travelling in the direction it was before the throttle closed. moving the bov closer to the turbo means that all the air between the bov and the turbo will be moving in the opposite direction to the normal direction of flow. you will also end up with a loss of pressure between the bov and the throttle, so the nearest amount of airflow will be further away from the throttle. when the bov is near the throttle, the pressure will be reduced but the air will still be flowing in the right direction so you will have better response when the throttle opens again.

so same treatment as he gets at redbull, lol

you read it wrong. minimum wages in the states are about half of what they are here. that's why prices are cheaper. running costs are less, plus the income tax over there is less too, so businesses get more profit from sales (on the downside, they have a f**ked healthcare system and general economy). put simply, if you want to aussie shops to sell shit for less, get the government to drop the minimum wage and tell everyone to take a pay cut

as rob posted, it's been covered, but as i say in EVERY fuel economy thread, don't just post up how many kms you are getting before you fill up. calculate it into L/100kms otherwise it means absolutely nothing in terms of fuel economy. what you are classing as a tank full may be 20L different to what someone else is, so the actual economy you are getting will be drastically different, but the distance between fillups will be the same. if you don't put it into fuel economy terms then you won't get accurate answers.

if you want to rule out the o2 sensor then just unplug it. in all honesty, the o2 sensor does bugger all when it comes to issues like this. it sounds more like you have a fuel issue. as jonboy said, look for vaccum leaks as that will make it run mega rich. i bet that if you pull out a sparkplug it will show signs of running super rich

both s1 and s2 have vct (assuming you are talking about r33 motors)

sister in law is a building estimator and she earns (gross) over $1700 a week. she's been on above the 'average' wage for a few years now. plus all the people in the mines earn well above $1300 a week. they'd probably clear that much. actually come to think of it, i got offered a job a while back where i would've earnt more than $1300 a week, but that was only because it was working 12 hours a day, 6 days a week.

don't spend a single cent on it. if you want more power, sell it and by a r33 with the rb25 in it. that alone will see you get a roughly 40kw gain in power. the amount you would have to spend on your motor to even get close to that would be close to what you could buy a second complete car for, plus it wouldn't be P plate legal. you will only get a few kw gain from any mods that will be P plate legal (and not to mention the fact that any mods that will gain you more than a few kw will cost a buttload). to be honest, you would've been better off buying a different car. a commodore, falcon or even a lancer would beat your car. and for those that know me will know what the next car recommendation will be (and it isn't a magna, it's the other one). my choice would've been a SSS pulsar. it has more power than the rb20E in the skylines (9kw more), and the car weighs less (over 100kg less). probably not what you wanted to hear

imagine if webber did go to the fez. would lead to possibly the best team mate racing in F1 for a long time. i don't think the team bosses would like a repeat of Eau Rouge from last season though

I'm going to go against the grain a bit and say a netbook, lol. Half the price of a decent tablet, and twice the power and versatility. I have an acer aspire 1. It runs a dual core 1.5ghz processor. Cost under $300 when I got mine. it runs dual boot android and windows but I never use Android because of the lack of an app market, but I have had a play around on it. Loads fast and is functional.

as above, if the fuel is old then it will be stale and be most of the problem. the fuel lines may also be a bit gummed up. try pulling off a fuel line and seeing if fuel is getting to the engine. you could also try tipping a very small amount of fuel into the plenum and see if that makes a difference. if it does then you know your problem is fuel related

off the top of my head, if you bought the car unregistered, to register it you need a road worthy/safety certificate and a reciept for the purchase of the vehicle

also depends on the condition of the car and whether the insurance company even will sell it back to you. not all of them do as some just send it straight to the auctions with no option for you to buy it back

i had it load the mobile version first go the other day. about 20 mins later when i went on the site again it was back to it's usual self

umm, how about a stock rb25 turbo? it is about the only turbo you will get on a budget that is worth putting on there, and based off the fact that you were keeping the boost stock anyway, it is ideal for what you are doing.

i have a feeling i may have used a long extension on mine when i did it... but it was a looooong time ago now. but i know i did hold the socket to make sure than after i turned, when i swung back to have another go it didn't move, so i got the maximum abount of turn the next time. having a socket with fine rachet increments helps as well. and the lever thing can sometimes work too if the nut is loose enough that it can be spun by hand when there is no pressure on it. then you only have to use the spanner/socket to do up the last bit

i used one of those dyno apps that work off the accelerometer. my best was about 1300hp while sitting at my desk. there are so many flaws in them it isn't funny. unless you put in accurate COD, weight, etc they are extremely innacurate. would be somewhat better for 0-100 times based off GPS, but given that lag that most GPS systems in phones have, they will somewhat innacurate. have used trapster. it's good if you aren't familiar to an area, but for mobile speed cameras it's only good if someone has gone past the camera before you and logged that it's there. the bmw seems ok, but i'm sure there are other things out there like it if you didn't want all the bmw branding. the only car type app i use is mileage (android). it keeps track of fuel economy.

cowboy is spot on. it has been covered many many times. but yes it can be done. to be done properly will cost about $2000

i don't know that much about autos, but have you checked the fluid level in the box yet to make sure that is part of the problem? i would assume you check it like other autos, with the car running and in park (or is it neutral????) or you could speak to your local automatic transmission specialist

Don't use grease on rubber. Doesn't do it any good in the long term. You can buy tubes of stuff called dry lube (looks a bit like grease). Use that. Or just tighten the belt a bit more

By exhaust restrictions, he meant the small turbo. I don't think you realise just how bad of an idea putting that turbo on could end up being. If that turbo fails, which it most likely will due to the amount of heat it will be experiencing, you run the risk of it resulting in engine failure. And I'd say that even at stock boost you will probably find that the turbo will run out of puff at higher rpm. It's a turbo designed for a low compression 2L motor that is prone to failure due to excess heat. Putting it on a high comp 2.5L engine isn't going to end well.