mad082

yeah i see that GTR all the time (yes it's a GTR under all that crud). hard to see behind the 1m tall grass on the footpath though.

will be interested to hear what times it gets this time.

just hope that it is wet electrics that need to dry out and not something worse. driving through flood water can end badly. there is always the chance that you will either suck water into the engine (not a good thing), or the car will stall and not start again, meaning you have to leave it there and go get help. if the water is rising fast the car may be underwater by the time you get back.

if it was coils then you would hear it misfiring. sounds like it is most likely either going to be an issue with the AFM or with the CAS. if the CAS is dodgy then it will be backing the timing off. if it is the AFM then it may be either making it run super rich or super lean. there is a small chance there is a leak in the cooler piping somewhere, making it run rich as well. there is also a small chance you have an issue with the exhaust, with either there being a leak in the manifold (most likely caused by some broken exhaust studs), or the cat converter has collapsed. try banging on the cat and if you get a rattling sound then the cat is stuffed.

what about if you set the gear ratios so the top speed is only about 465kmh? maybe try putting the front aero up a bit (doubt it will do anything, but worth a try). just looked at a video or 2. one said that you tweak the diff settings (initial torque to minimum), plus low suspension rates. is it possible that the track has a slight incline in one direction? maybe try spinning around and heading back in the other direction and see if it makes any difference.

getting slightly off topic for a second (partly to stir a few people up), had the weight penalties been more accurately/evenly done then the GTR wouldn't have had the success it did. back on topic, i think that where fwd gets its advantage in rally is from the fact that, as it was said in the first post (i think), it can pull itself out of the corners, where as rwd has to balance oversteer and understeer. both rwd and fwd will understeer into a corner (pretty easily) when pushed too hard. but if oversteer occurs then the fwd can pull itself out while the rwd has to try and accelerate and control the slide with the wheels that have lost traction. also when running a bit wide (and losing a bit of rear traction) and fwd cars are putting their power down on a 'cleaner' part of the track. all the loose gravel gets pushed to the outside of the track, where the rwd cars are trying to get their drive from.

are they getting a tow from the car in front? what are you doing to your aero? dropping it right down to as low as it will go?

might be worth to try and get your hands on a consult cable to see what temps the ecu is reading. it could just be the gauge in the dash is reading a bit high.

start with a new radiator cap. pretty sure the stock pressure for the cap is 0.9bar. make sure you get one that is the stock pressure. don't get a higher rated cap. if that doesn't help the situation then i'd look at getting a new water pump. it may be that it wasn't changed at the 100,000km service (if it's been done) and they can wear out to a point where they have no blades left so they don't pump water.

that is very minor damage. they would have to be on drugs to write that off. you have nothing to worry about.

unless you have major power upgrades a stock one will be all you need

buy or borrow a multimeter. then pull the dash cluster out (but leave it plugged in). put the indicator on and touch the multimeter to both sides of where the bulb goes in. if you get a reading (of around 12v going on and off) then it's to do with the bulb holder not contacting properly. if no voltage then it's either in the cluster or the wiring somewhere.

you have 2 newer cars and 1 older car on that list. i would go the newer cars over the old bluebird. or go a silvia/180sx over the bluebird. they are better looking, lighter, and most likely the gearbox will be in better condition. if you want to go AWD sr20 then find a tidy example of a GTiR. or even just get a SSS pulsar with a turbo conversion done, or do it yourself. i'd take a guess that he's 35 to 40kw short of what he wants, which is engine work realms of power gains.

depends on what sort of city driving it was. if it was cruising on motorways, etc, and there wasn't much start/stop traffic then you will get decent economy. that is the thing with 'city' driving. everyone has a different interpretation of what it is. in a lot of cases what people class as city driving is probably more accurately defined as a mix of both city and highway driving. if you are cruising through the middle of the city on a bypass doing 80kmh or more then that is more highway driving than city driving. it is just a highway through the city.

any car place, such as autobarn, repco, etc will sell them

i liked the xr8 in the older games. sure it isn't the fastest thing in the world, but it handles ok, and if setup right it's good for sliding around the track (without full on drifting).

i had an issue like this in my commodore. would click away like crazy. i replaced the indicator stalk and it fixed it. was a dodgy relay.

you can't simply plug s2 coils into a s1. the s1 runs an external ignitor, while the s2 has it built into the coils. you would have to swap the ignition loom over. ecu should be fine though.

not sure if the head of the DET head runs lower compression (know it runs lower compression pistons). if it does then you will be down on power. plus you will need to use the NA cams. another option would be to just buy a complete motor and bolt that in.

does the vg30 run an adjustable CAS? if so then you could also dial the timing back with it. and since it needs to be said, doing the TT setup will require.................. wait for it... engine out. YEAH!!!!! *puts on sunnies*

no, it was a haiku written by someone who is bad at writing haikus

there is a bleed screw up near the plenum. do a search for threads on how to bleed the system

is the xr6 turbo in gt5? was in gt4

you could do a search for how to fix the afm (resolder it). that may fix the problem also try checking the fault codes (seach for threads on how to check them if you aren't sure)

sounds like a loose plug/wire somewhere. could be fun trying to locate it....