DJRIFT

nope just as normal.

ill bring Kerrys 32 and we can have a threesome.......... 3 way state battel You ruined the hangover for me wooster. couldnt stop laughing inside especialy when you started pulling teeth out.

well it probably looks worse than it is. it is dead square with the rad suport pannel. that spot is where the GTR trust and HKS oil cooler kits are mounted also as there is no room in the right hand side. and im putting a duct directly onto it so that should help also. thanks for the query thoe. other peoples perspectives are always handy.

the cooler is off a late model rx7 i think. got it off a mate who got it off a mate. was going to use it as a fuel cooler. the only time ive ever had issues with PS boiling was at a motorkhana. the last few ive been at with the drift car i dont need to work the wheel as much so it doesnt get hot. once you start pushing more lock and spending more time on the lock stops is when they will boil. its not realy neassary just somthing i have. i hacked up the IC duct to make a pretty good duct for the PS cooler tonight. will put pics up when finished.

Hmmmm looks like fun i mite have to enter. welded some brackets on to hold my power steering cooler that had previously been held on with cable ties and found a bit of old intercooler ducting so i can duct the air onto it properly. also mounted up the reo bar and mounted intercooler to it. looks the works.

is there? no mention in the cams callender. there is a hillclimb at highclere (NW) on the 4th of dec. you could come up and do that then stay the night in town with us and then do the motorkhana justin. you will definatly get the throttle response you want with the 26 plenum

well the 3" dump hangs about 1/2" lower than the rails so even 3" wide oval will be to low. i was going to make somthing along the oval line but hey why not cut up the floor i say. my cars not eligable for any particular classes because of some of the other irraversable things ive done to it so if i ever log booked and raced it it would probably need to go into an all out class so i may as well go all out. but no i havent seen thoes products. at the moment tossing up between 3 1/2" or 4" for the exhaust. either way it will be straight through with no mufflers at all. ive been running this car with a straight through 3" for the past 2 years and its definatly never been the lowdest car at the track. Not to sure about the ITB's yet. i havent been able to prove any gains at all. they more than likely wont affect anything untill i get over 300rwkw but they should help for spool time and throttle response. they also help with surge in bigger turbo aplications. as far as seat of the pants they are very noticable. they feal grate under the right foot and are like a light switch. open and you know it ,off and you know it. the first time driving around the pits i found it hard to drive slowly because you only just have to crack the throttles and the engine starts to pull so thats a positive. i just wanted a forward facing plenum cheaper than the plazman ones and thats pretty much what i got. i played around with a few different options and spoke to a few metal work places about just making a simple box style one that bolt on to the lower runners but they all wanted a fortune and wanted to do it completely different to what i wanted to do. the mate i have with over 300rwkw out of a rb20 has just a cheap box style plenum ontop of the bottom runners. cheap and sucsessfull.

been getting a bit done week by week. please excuse the phone pics. if youd like clearer pics ill go back to a normal camera but its way more eficent for me to use a phone camera. got tyres fitted to the front works rims and fitted them. im very happy with the fitment. this pic is not a good example. Started back into my drift car. ive had to make a new front reo bar. i used an old bent one and unstiched all the bits i didnt want. on the left is what i started with and on the right is what i was left with i have a GTR cooler and i use the top standard mounts to mount it to the reo bar so i had to weld on some brackets than after some initial test fitting i found it was to low in the middle and it covered to much of the cooler so i made it do this and that made it look like this painted up ready to roll A few weeks back i got a hold of a S14 sub frame to comepare pick up points. this is some of the results the front mount has been cut off the r32 item but the silver bar projects where it would have been. the front pick up of the s14 frame is substancialy lower. i then stripped out the inside of the car once again. im hoping to tidy it up once and for all and never have to pull it apart again. its a real squez to get the full dash pad out with the cage in. im hoping to also de-loom the engine bay as i do this for other people but have never bothered to toutch my own car. then i decided to start cutting the floor up ready for the new dump pipe im building. the point where the dump pipe is at its lowest under the passenger foot well has always been to low on my car and i plan on going to a bigger diamiter dump pipe so cutting the floor seemed like a good option. So far the only hassel has been some of the extra body work stiched in to that area for the gearbox cross member but i will weld in something that will be stronger than the original anyway. i am also planning on cutting and boxing the section at the back of the passenger seat so i can run a straight pipe from the firewall back with only a mild kink up and out at the back. it may seem like a fair hassel but ive been over plenty of ripple strips and the exhaust cops a hiding and this movement can cause all sorts of problems futher back on the turbo side as far as cracking manifolds and studs ect that could end a good days racing. so i file it under a reliability thing rather than time waste.

do you have any pics at all of them on a your 33? did they clear the front brakes ok. offset is easy to work out and will help with your sale if you have a spare few mins to do it. measure the width of the rim with a ruler. then from the centre of the measurment. eg. 300mm outside edge to outside edge centre 150mm. then measure from the inside edge of the rim to the hub face. say 180mm that would make a +30 offset. im keen on these i dont supose you want to swap rims. and im intersate sorry.

Yea.............No go back to the start and explain what is going on and when it started? and whos working on it?

thats all dependant on what size you get. if its just to maintain you can get a 1Amp or a 4Amp that will still charge flat batteries they just take longer. expensive chargers are like everything in life the work better. a normal charger just puts current in untill it decides its full. these more expensive ones as the battery gets around 80-90% full they turn the current up and down to cycle the battery to 100% charged. very few chargers will do that. samll ones start around $150 i thinkl. never had to price on at retail. any decent auto electrical place can get one and they will also be able to advise the best size and option for you. im not sure where you can get them normaly. maybe repco or bursons?

CTEK is the best on the market i belive. we sell a ton of them through work and we use them on our own race cars. there is cheaper altenatives but these have never let us down.

air flow meter. it will be ither half unpluged or stuffed. resomly common fault. and yes the engine does have hydrolic lifters but that wont cause your problem. and if you have a pod filter hanging off your AFM and its just flopping around like 90% of r32 than that will help in the fatuge of the AFM

Pic sir. every one likes pics even if they are off the ground.

nice wheels are you able to list an offset? and do you have any pics of wheels on a car?

i fear this will be the dimise of motorsport over the next decade or so. V8s will go to street circits and only the elite few tracks. bathurst PI, ect will stand but being able to get a car on them will no doubt become harder and harder. in Tassie we have just had a new wave of harsher penalties for hooning on our streets but in the same breath cams and the track owners are making it increcingly harder and more expensive to hit the track at all.

i shit you not sir. its lapping basky at around 58s and is fairly stock with most bits. no E85 servos but we have a workshop[ brining race quality stuff in. yea i think your right. its not real E85 its some special blend with only around 30% ethanol. Gee your a hard parker Roy

hey roy what size is that dump pipe? 2 1/2 into 3 or bigger? and we have a stock internals rb20 down here pushing just over 300rwkw on e85 with a XR6 style bolt on garrett kit on a stock manifold. internal gate ect so you should get what you want on E85

i particuly like the fact that you think its boring as bat shit but you have been to all 3. lol ive been to all 3. driven at 1 out of 3. after the first one i voued never to go again unless i was driving. last year id already payed entry but the car wasnt ready so i went anyway. wont bother going again unless there is some car driving action to be had.

yep its a bigger one. nothing special just the usual garret rubbish but i wont be putting any big numbers in it just yet. 260+ at this stage and then e85 later on. main concern is doing evrything right once so i wont be spending every night working on it next year.

had an issue with the head. its always been a problem but only discovered it after a few chnages made during the rebuild. pulled the head off. fix the problem but havent put it back together yet, mainly because i wanted to put it back together and add a big turbo. ive just started work on it again after not toutching it for 2-3 months. a lot of work ahead of me again. i hope to see it out there rob you have missed far to many even for my liking.

im aiming to have my drifter running again for this. i think there will be a 3 car RB gate train but like allways this is only hopers and dreams at the moment.

its a race only shell. cant be complied. what sort of skyline are you looking for?

hi all. i have a heap of bits for sale. located in launceston Tas. D-max duck tail wing and roof spoiler to suit r32 gts or GTR 2 door. $500 as a pair. id profer to sell together. still on car. ive had a look around to price them but cant find a price and cant remember what i paid for them. pic of duck tail. roof spoiler and airo mirrors pair of airo mirrors. light weight. suit r32 gtst and GTR $80 Whiteline front springs to suit R32 gtst. same as SK group buy springs. $50 Whiteline sway bar links, brand new. $140 R32 GTR rear sway bar. very light. grate upgrade for gtst skyline or S13 $120 Origin DNA01 rims 17x9.5 +15 like new, pair only, $600 no tyres Pair of 16x6 work rims with nexen tyres. $100 Stock gtst front bar $100 Gtst rear seat. imaculate condition. later model fabric. no fading. $100 Gtst rear seat. earlier fabric. faded and average condition $40 gtst 4 door front seats. in tweed. ok condition. could do with a clean. $100 Straight through exhaust no mufflers. cat back to suit gtst and GTR 3" with stainless rear section. home made. good for a track exhaust nice note. $100 rear section 2 3/4" exhaust to suit gtst. $100 Pivot engine start button. has been installed. comes in original box with instructions. $80 under the green switch ARC side mount. suit S13. havent tried but should fit up to R32 in good condition $100 Speco tacho. 4" with internal shift light. $50 tacho can be seen in below pic i have a nardi leather steering wheel. black leather. VG condition. no centre cap. would profer to swap plus or no cash, this item for an imaculate R32 gtst or GTR steering wheel. (wont sell unless i have a good wheel lined up) D1 spec quick release hub and boss kit. nardi wheel can come with both or just the boss kit for extra$$.

17 x 10 +15 fit on GTR's with ease.