daisu

I've got a Z32 ECU with a nistune installed sitting in my garage, was going to use it for an RB25 but bailed on the whole engine build.

I can vouch for the dashmat.

I was thinking more like MacGyver, make stuff work.

You could fit any dash really. They're all going to need some sort of modification and the other thing to consider is how well it will line up with the shape of the door cards. FWIW I've seen a cefiro dash fitted into an R31 skyline, but i doubt anyone is going to rush out and put an R31 dash in their cef/laurel

Super jealous of the sunroof!

Yep, US parts are a big thing for the japanese tuning scene. My V35 came over with infiniti badges on the boot and an infiniti grille.

Looking at all the pictures certainly changed my mind. Just had a look at their website. If you haven't already emailed them Nic, I will email them today and send my boots in. Wouldn't mind getting a new one for the V35 too.

Got it off a guy here in QLD, don't know where he got it from though.

I had a turn flow behind my autech bumper and it was a regular 600*300 sized core. There was a fair bit that sat above the mouth of the bumper but like the others said it was no need to cut the bumper to suit. The return pipe at the bottom was behind the lower lip of the bar, so it your case it might show a bit, just paint the piping matte black and it should hide with the colour of your bumper. Another reason not to cut the bumper, is that you'll then have to cut the same shape out of the bumper reinforcement bar. I found this out when I bought a 2nd autech bar that had been moulded with the larger mouth (doesn't look it's been hacked up when it was moulded this way).

Saw Beez35 in someone's driveway on my way home Saturday night. It does stick out like a sore thumb with the P plate hanging out of the number plate. Are you allowed to hang it on the inside of your rear window?

This only happens when you wedge a front mount in and the bumper has to "wrap" around it.

According the wikipedia, the 350GT-8 is listed as 200kW so would be okay in QLD, but the other 350GT are 206kw. 300GT and 250GT are well under 200kw so no problems. I doubt you'd get pulled up in it, but like it was said before, your insurance would mean squat after they decide you were illegally driving the car.

If they only imported and complied it recently, ask to see the import documentation? Part of the import process is the vehicle has to be deregistered in Japan, if they have that it will have the KM's on it from when it was in Japan. Won't help you if the numbers have been wound back in japan before auction, but it's something to check.

1) wow 20mL!! At $1.50/litre that is 3 cents worth. 2) This is applicable only if you pay in cash and are not buying anything else in the store. 3) again with the 3 cents. 4) have never seen anyone use the preset function? 5) pumps have temperature compensation built in. Even if temp compensation wasn't built in, for a 75litre tank you'd be looking at stuff all difference in volume. If there was a big difference it would end up expanding in your tank and overflow anyway, not to mention all cars would then have to have fuel temperature compensation built into the ECU otherwise your air/fuel ratios would be out depending on time of day. So, max saving is like 8 cents worth out of a $100 purchase. If you are that concerned about sticking it to the fuel companies I'd suggest riding a bike.

I like your style, but I don't understand why you needed to remove so much of the floor pan?

Then as soon as the flow goes up the pressure would increase.... going around in circles. It would reach an equilibrium somewhere below the required pressure. The increased pressure may have overloaded the pump causing internal damage, which would then result in lower flow rates. Set the pump up on a bench with an adjustable FPR set at the pumps rated pressure and check the flow rate. If it's below the quoted flow rate then that proves the pump was failing. If the pump is within spec at it's rated pressure, bump the FPR up to 72psi (or whatever the setup was on the failed engine). Measure the flow rate again and do the calcs.

Dunno now, but thinking about it the strut towers/wheel arches are going to be the same shape as the S13, so the R32 lines probably wouldn't fit. Not sure how different the firewalls are, but the master cylinders are the same shape (S13/R32).

Put a VQ35 in it?

S13 master cylinder is the same shape as the R32 master cylinder. Therefore the hard lines should be identical to the R32.

Are they eibach for 350z or for V35? How much drop did it give you?

That was me, I had a quick look at yours and was going to ask what suspension you have?

I get this problem too. I think the oil is sticking to the walls of the tube and providing false reading. Try pull the dipstick out, wipe it and leave it out for a few minutes to give the oil in the tube a chance to drain away, then reinsert, remove and read.

Excess static camber is going to reduce your braking power and severely increase your tyre wear. R33 LCA's have different mounts for the swaybar. You could always just remove the lock stops on an S14 LCA, otherwise it'll be drilling holes in the R33 LCA for the swaybar. R30 LCA's sound interesting

If you measure yours I'll measure mine

If you've got gearboxes lying around in your garage perhaps you could take a tape measure to them, so then Nic_A31 can compare to his.