swanny180

I have a theory that boost pressure is probably relative to turbocharger life in an exponential relationship. Obviously this belief would allow for some turbos surviving on 12psi, some not, some surviving on 14psi+ and some not. Basically, your turbo will last for X amount of time running 7/8 psi (ie stock boost). X is unknown obviously, but we can safely assume that X probably represents quite a long time, maybe 10 years? At say 10 psi, you might find your turbo will now only last for X/2. But if your turbo is going to last for 10 years at 7/8 psi, its still going to last for another 5 at 10psi. So still a long time. At 12psi, you might then find that turbo life has shortened to X/4, in other words, 2.5 years. Starting to shorten now. Bump boost up to 14psi and you may find turbo life reduces further to X/8, or just over a year before failure. 16psi, a bit over 6 months... you get the picture. If this theory of mine is correct, it obviously allows for other factors influencing the unknown X value. Newer car (and therefore newer turbo), better maintained, better condition turbos might have an initial X value far higher than a car that has been neglected, has already been run at a higher boost, is older, etc etc. The problem is with imports, you never really can expect to know the *exact* and entire history of the car, and even still you are only making an educated guess as to the turbos lifespan. I personally run mine at 10psi. I do not believe that this will severly limit the lifespan of the turbo. 12psi would be reasonably safe too in my opinion. There becomes a real risk of failure, but in most cases an acceptable one. If your turbocharger *is* in good condition, I dont think there would be any reason for premature failure, as the turbo is still operating efficiently (and so temperatures are under control) At 14psi, things become more iffy. Basically it becomes much more luck oriented. I know of people personally who have run 14psi on an RB25 with no problem. I also have read of plenty who have had failure at this level. To run 14psi you need to be willing and able to replace your turbo as there is a significant level of risk of failure at this stage, due to higher shaft speed and increased temperatures. Anything above 14psi in my opinion is pretty stupid. You would not do this without being very much ready to replace your turbo, in which case you might as well just go ahead with replacing it and sell the stock one to recover some cost? A few hundered $$ off the cost of the replacement is stupid to throw away for nothing more than running above 14psi simply for the sake of it? Obviously this all may or may not be correct, its just an educated estimation of how things could likely work that Ive come to by observation. Biggest problem is that its still a bit of a dark art once boost pressures are raised. We know 100% is that there is NO magic number. We know 100% that turbo life is reduced at some level as boost pressures rise Its then just a case of making an informed decision and trying out a number for yourself and hoping its not one that is too high for your turbo to handle

Good luck snatching a 7

I dont think the front bar blends well with the lines of the car. Cant tell if its just that photo of it, but seems to lack any fine detail on the front bar?

This topic is a pisser!! Personally - would never buy it or spend that much on anything Holden has made. BUT M3GTR - Its really funny some of the things youve been saying in this topic (and others too, who have been knocking Holden). Im not at all, not even in the slightest trying to have a go at you in what Im about to say, just giving a different perspective... Basically, the general consensus among a lot of people in this thread is that: - $170k for a Holden is a hell of a lot of money - The car has very limited use of any form of new/complicated technology - $170k for a car with such limited technology is a hell of a lot of money Right? Your opinions I feel, are very true. But 100% completely irrelevant from a business perspective. Holden is a BUSINESS. Thats the ONLY relevant factor for them. And from a business perspective, they have outdone Nissan, Porche, basically everyone and anyone who has sold a car for $170k. I keep hearing in this thread that a $170k car *should* have more technology used in it, or conversely that a car with such limited technology *should* cost far less money. Well guess what? That simply goes to show that Holden has a far better knowledge of their own market than almost everyone in this thread (myself included). I cant comprehend why anyone would pay so much for a car that ultimately is a Holden, and also is very very basic in a technological sense. But its not relevant what I can understand, or what I personally would do. It all revolves around the fact that Holden not only believe they can, but indeed have *already* found 200 people willing to part with that sort of money for that sort of car. Spending money on different technology/more moving parts (as youd have if you moved away from a pushrod setup), more interior gadgets etc etc, it would all be dead money for the business. Why on earth would you spend money developing and including things that you simply dont need for the market they are selling to? The single most important thing for people to realise, is that an item is worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Not what *you* are willing to pay for it. Not what likeminded people are willing to pay for it. What *someone* is willing to pay for it - that can be anyone, anyone at all. There may only be 200 people on the face of the earth who would buy this car for this much. But if Holden have managed to find every last one of them and have spent the absolute minimum outlay by not including unneccessary items and put the price up as high as possible while maintaining buyer interest, then it sure seems like from a BUSINESS perspective that they've done a remarkably good job on this one... Dont you think?

Starlet GT. Can pick them up for an absolute steal (anywhere from 5k - 10k depending on condition), 1.3L could basically run on petrol fumes, snappy handling, nimble and light (850kg or thereabouts), enough room for 5 if needed (bit squishy in the back obviously), and the practicality of a hatch (can fit shiteloads in the back with the rear seats down). And the parts are quite cheap to top it off. Look for one in good condition with reasonable Kms and exhaust/suspension/wheels/tyres. Basically a fairly close to stock one with just a few improvements to make it a bit of a beast in the twisties. Take a look on http://www.austarletclub.com/forums/. Theyre very friendly over there

Good on the owner of the civic. For those who think that teh GTR can nevar lose, that the video is pointless etc etc, youve well and truly missed the point id say Who gives a fark about lap times at the ring, when the video is about a drag race? Everyone *knows* the GTR isnt built for drag racing. Id go so far as to say no bog stock car is. BUT, the GTR is an impressively fast car in a straight line so its good to see someone take a car worth probably less than a fifth of the value of a GTR when new and show what they can do to it, then prove it with not only dyno figures, but a race too. Im fairly certain the video doesnt claim for anyone to have produced a car with the looks, prestige, build quality, warranty or overall engineering of the GTR. Its just showing how quick an unassuming little 4cyl hatch can be, the GTR being the benchmark for 'quick'.

Back up for sale, looks like the buyer fell through?

Posts: 796 Joined: 11th March, 2008 From: Adelaide Car(s): S2 RS4 Nismo & S1 RS4 Real Name: Reuben Trader Rating : 3 You = fail at being stig

Im curious as to how the active LSD actually works? Is it electronically controlled somehow? Or just like a progressive limited slip effect depending on traction available? Or something else?

I thought it was a good report. The guy researching hoon behaviour has a far more balanced view of the issue. I really think his ideas should be heard. Yes 'hoon behaviour' is worth doing something about. But NO, 'hoon behaviour' isnt automatically associated with serious accidents, it actually can be far more accurately categorised as nothing more than an annoyance, as he suggests. So it is fair that it should be addressed in this sense, but it needs to be approached with the right perspective, that it typically isn't especially dangerous. And to those who flame police - I understand that some police may treat some people unfairly. But you need to remember that a large majority of them are just normal decent people doing their job (in EXACTLY the same way that the majority of people who drive nice cars dont actually drive everywhere with copious amounts of wheelspin, using four lanes, with all of their cousins in the car with them and their music cranked up to 11) This stereotype against police just serves to work against us. People in the car community and the police need to develop a MUTUAL respect for each other. Its pretty simple really, if you dont act like a tool and give the police anything to hassle you for, if the mutual respect is there, then the police have no reason *to* hassle you, and wont. If there is a mutual disrespect bred through people slagging off about how terrible the police are, it just continues to create more tension, and it becomes two opposing sides (car enthusiast v police) rather than two co-operating groups (car enthusiast *and* police). The sooner the overall mentality changes the better. As far as Im concerned I have no problems with the police at all. Yep Im definitely wary of them, in the same way that they seem to be a little wary of me when they see a youngish bloke driving a skyline. In my experience so far, when they see Im not doing anything stupid, and when I see that theyre just making sure of that, its basically no problem and we both can go happily on our way. ...Which in my opinion is how it should be?

Sold pending payment

Not sure if thats the case or not? But to answer your question as to why - you still would get a decent weight saving from removing HICAS and replacing with a comparably much lighter lock bar.

Noone interested?

Pure, unbridled awesome. The grief stricken 'NOOOOOOOOO' at the end just topped it off, was pissing myself laughing

No I think the point was that exactly - surprise at how low that figure is... For a car with drive to all four wheels especially.

Wow!! Very impressed!!

As far as Im aware, only difference would be that an A/T transmission is capable of running an A/T car, whereas I dont think a manual one will. Dont think youll have any dramas using this on a manual car though. Located in Oyster Bay.

And heres a pic of the item just in case anyone really likes the look of little metal boxes filled with electronics

Sold pending payment

PM sent

Anyone interested? If anybody needs a pic I can upload one... but its pretty straightforward what it looks like

Get an R32 ecu and get it remapped!! You can pick up a 32 ecu for like 100 bucks. Not sure where you could find one for sale though... ...Hold on, Im selling one!! (free and shameless plug )

Tease!! Nah looking forward to more pics!!

Item: R32 RB20DET ECU (A/T) Age: As old as an R32? Condition: Good Price: $100 To Fit: R32 obviously, or can also be used in an R33 and it is easily remappable - easier than the stock R33 ecu. Location: Sydney Contact: PM me or SMS 0405 042 138 Comments: Nuh

Hey mate, I have the front housing and stub axles from a 33 GTS-T (no rear cover), dont know if that could help with what you're after? If youre interested just shoot me a PM