swanny180

Or just run 5psi on the 3540 *woo full boost!!*

Good to see youve had a nice thorough search of the website... Click me

My google skillz FTW clicky click Poor R35

Ze pics = brokenz

Raikonnen for championship no. 2

Is that Jarrods hand in the pic? Quite the jealous btw

Agreed Dont see why someone else should be driving other than the owner unless they expect them to be faster

Street class - owner drives Race class - if anyone else drives

Ferarri F40 if I recall correctly?

Uhhh no Im pretty sure the stock R33 GTST actuator is set at 7psi... Have you ever actually seen a 33 hold 3psi on a stock turbo with everything functioning correctly?

Haha I love the practicality and driftability Not a bad effort there mate. Looks quite straight too!

Yeah itll be fine. Had it happen a few times to myself, no damage caused, just clamp it back on and away you go

Congratulations, you've added nothing to the thread. No idea WTF you bothered posting that for... On to the topic at hand, Id shoot for the 180 out of that list. The 300 isnt as nice looking and its engines apparently are difficult to work on (and as such expensive) when something lets go. The supra would be a tad expensive for the 20k price range. You might scrape into one but youll be compromising the quality of the end result. The 180 is a really nice looking car, the boot is reasonable (better than S13 silvia because of hatch nature - more room to put things in aswell), has 4 seats (albeit limited rear legroom... so just make sure you are driving or have shotgun ), and are reasonably quick and not expensive to get some quite decent performance out of. Basically, for around 12 - 15 you could have a brilliant example of one with some work done to it so that it would look great, be quite quick and surprisingly practical for what it is. Then some cash left over to cover whatever else you need to (say insurance/rego/modifications )

1 - Ferarri F40 2 - Lamborghini Reventon (or Murcielago LP640) 3 - Ultima GTR 4 - Caparo T1 5 - Pagani Zonda F And if any of the above were out of stock, a Carrera GT or Enzo could possibly fill in the void.

To be honest I wouldnt bother changing the cores. Something interesting to think about which is why I dont think its worthwhile - would a better core actually fix your problem? I mean personally I cant see why even the absolute best intercooler cores wouldnt suffer heatsoak when stationary with high ambient temps and no airflow. I can definitely see that there may be *some* marginal difference between something awesome (say a plasmaman or ARC cooler) as opposed to typical china crap, but at the same time it would be just that - marginal. The only real difference would come from slightly better quality material being used giving a slightly better heatsink effect. The problem is, that doesnt change the fact that either of them will become heatsoaked relatively quickly. I think my point is youd be better off spending the money developing or buying a quality off the shelf CO2 cooler spray kit (or similar). Or perhaps looking into improving your current water spray system? Bigger tank? Nozzle that mists the water better? Stronger pump? Etc etc Thats my take on it anyway

Looks like 11.2 vs 6.5 psi to me... In which case the dyno results are compromised to the point of being absolutely useless at proving any modification related gains

I think those rules look pretty reasonable, except perhaps considering the intended japanese focus of this event would mean that the widebody/overfender rule for street class wouldnt be too appropriate, considering there would be a fair number of purely street driven cars with overfenders or widebody conversions. EDIT: Just read the modified class rules where widebodys etc *are* allowed. I guess this would now more depend on whether 3 classes are needed/desired... Also, just my personal opinion, I dont see why headlinings should be removable in street class. Carpets are a bit iffy, but I guess justifiable considering some people do drive without carpet in their street car... But really, removing roof linings would be moving a little bit too far away from street cars I believe. I also think the no pro drivers for street class rule is a good idea

Damn that mani is proper sexy

Yeah I really wouldnt see the idea of basing classes on road legality as working at all. Problem is ultimately that because almost any modification at all is *technically* not street legal, youd basically be working off a 'reasonable person' type model of judgement. eg. if a 'reasonable person' would consider modification X to be pretty much street legal then its ok... The entire premise is flawed because A, it can be very debatable as to what a reasonable person would think and B, someone will invariably be dissatisfied with the result. Personally I think its a great way of sorting out classes in theory. But its just too subjective to ever work in practice unfortunately

Lol @ thread IBTL yeahhh...

My god... This common sense bullshit has gone to far... *queue pigeon flutterz photochop*

Mate, have a think about what youre asking. Why would you want to modify your car in a way where the *only* benefit will be more noise (which will in turn give you more attention from police), and the downside to it is that it can and almost always will make your car run worse? (In the case of vehicles running airflow metres) Your stock one does its job, which is to prolong turbocharger life, not make noise. Dont but an atmospheric one, its pure wank and a waste of money.

You have more intake piping volume from having more length, larger diameter piping, and more intercooler volume. More volume to fill = slightly more lag/less response.

Total waste of money mate. Going from stock R33 sidemount to FMIC made a tiny tiny difference to how the car drove. Your engines airflow isnt going to change (not running a bigger turbo or any more boost) by any great amount, the fuel flow isnt changing (ie same fuel pressure, same injectors) and as such you really wont make any meaningful gains through having it tuned. You *might* pick up 2 or 3kW from having slightly slightly more timing wound in due to the higher detonation threshold from having a cooler intake charge... And to be honest, while $250 is quite reasonable for a tune, thats damn expensive for a 2-3kW power gain...