swanny180

They also posted that about a year ago...

Item: R33 RB25 turbo compressor outlet elbow Age: A few years? Condition: Good Price: $60 (postage additional if required) To Fit: Needed for anyone doing an RB25 turbo install onto an RB20 so that it bolts straight on (the RB20 elbow wont) Location: Sydney Contact: PM me or SMS me 0405 042 138 Comments: Narp

If anyone has an RB25 emanage blue map that they could send me that would also be much appreciated Winmasta - PM InterCooL, he has a wideband (not sure if it is an innovate one though) hooked up to his emanage. Might be able to help you out.

+1 It looks about half the total area of the flange itself?! Thats terrible?

Yes they do

Its 2GU UP. Hes a member on the forum under that username (or similar) i believe.

Hahahahaha As much as I cant stand the fanboy mentality where the GTR can do no wrong... That is just a piss poor argument at absolute best. 'What do you think of the new GTR?' 'Its pretty ugly' 'Well it has been mopping the floor with pretty much everything that goes against it, runs 11s factory, 3.3sec 0-100...?' 'Uhhh yeah... but its ugly?' Top reasoning right there you f**king knob jockey lol

Im using Motul 5.1 in my ABS equipped R33 with Lucas pads all round. Gave it a solid thrashing at Wakefield the other day with no pedal fade to speak of - for $15 a bottle, I cant fault it

Oh wow awesome!! What car did you do it in?

Mark Webber - If his car hasnt failed yet, it will.

What sort of tyres will you be using? Im assuming some kind of semi given you are competing in super lap? I think (don't quote me on this) that you can typically run spring rates a little higher when running on a semi as opposed to a street tyre (and likewise a bit stiffer again with a full slick)

I found my shimmed up diff (added a single 1.2mm shim) was brilliant at Wakefield compared to the first time I went. It actually began to open wheel towards the end of the day, and the difference was huge (the open wheeling was a result of the crownwheel bolts not being done up tight enough - this reduces preload on the shims - and take note that this was the result of human error, not a problem with shimming the diff). It was amazing how much longer you needed to wait when exiting a corner to get on the throttle when it was open wheeling. It actually gave a really good perspective on just how much improvement it made in retrospect... If you dont mind getting your hands dirty (its a bit of work to do), its a very very good value for money diff upgrade. $8 for shim, $20 - 30 for some new diff oil, locking diff for under $50 bucks... hard to beat

Simon - Yahuh, won't be neglecting to use Loctite this time around... Dave - Yep youre on the money. Basically they all had loosened up a lot - as you can see, enough that you can actually physically see it...

The lesson we can learn from this, is that crownwheel bolts need to be tighter than what my rattle gun is capable of doing them up... Yeah basically I shimmed my diff and when doing back up the crownwheel bolts I made the mistake of assuming my cheapish air compressor powered rattle gun would be good enough to do them up tight enough. This evidently wasnt the case, theyve come loose and a couple of the bolts cried enough and made their bid for freedom... Out the rear cover of the diff... Wont be making that mistake again doh!!

Im having some problems with my diff... A little bit of oil spilt out of it in a carpark today... Ive taken it out of my car and taken a picture of it, maybe someone can tell me whats wrong with it? Oh dear. I think I brokes it!

Wouldnt be clutch I dont think, then it would keep revving rather than stop revving - you just wouldnt be going anywhere quickly...

More importantly, who really cares? At the end of the day the dyno can only be used for rough comparison, or comparison between modifications made on the same car on the same dyno on the same day etc if you want to look accurately at differences in power. Be more concerned with how its driving and performing on the street, if it feels like a good improvements been made then you know you've done something right

Awesome guys, looking tops Brakes look wild!!

Before you listen to all the haters... What is the application you are planning to use it in? If you are putting it on a street car, dont. Response is important, youll be spending money elsewhere which would be better spent on an actual decent turbo, so on and so forth. However, if you are throwing it in a track basher for a bit of fun, I say go absolutely nuts with it Dont be dumb and spend lots of money doing it though, make it proper ghetto. Do the welding yourself, no management or anything sophisticated like that

SAU Nickname: swanny180 Car Make and Model: 93 R33 GTS-T Circuit Name: Wakefield Lap time: 1:13.85 Modifications Engine: Catback, Hiflow cat, FMIC Power: ~170kW Suspension: NPG? Coilovers, front strut brace Tyres: Front - 225/45/17 Contisport Contact IIs, Rear - 245/45/17 Bridgey Potenza RE050s Brakes: Standard with Lucas front pads and stock rears, Motul 5.1 fluid Body weight: Standard + 75kg (me ) Pretty happy with the time for a very mildly worked 33 GTST, forgot to time one session though where I though I may have gone faster Also managed a 1:13.90 with a passenger, so that probably would have been a touch faster had I not been lugging around an extra 70kg

Thanks for the link Justin911, my Holux M1000 is now operating at 5hz, will be testing out racechrono at Wakefield tomorrow Will let you all know how it goes!!

Yeah one of my mates used a battery powered snap on rattle gun for his. I headed up to Beaurepairs and the guy there rattled them off for me for free which was nice Just went for a drive then and definitely a big noticable difference using a 1.2mm shim. Clunking and shuddering like a mofo around tight corners haha Seems to hook up pretty well though out of corners under power which is just what I was after. So yeah, all in all pretty pleased so far, will just have to wait till Thurs to see how it holds up at Wakefield...

Diff is shimmed up, back in car, all is done. What a motherfarker of a job haha I can imagine that after having done it once, it would be significantly easier second time round. Also doing it on a long weekend is a shit idea (and why its taken me 3 days to finish it) because when you break something (like a couple of 14mm ring spanners...) or need something done (like the 10 stupidly tight crownwheel bolts), you cant because nowhere is open haha. Also try to have another car handy while you do it so you can actually get to the shops if you need to (thanks for the lifts Sidd if youre reading this ) So yeah, all in all its doable for anyone who doesnt mind getting their hands very dirty, but it is a reasonably large job. Getting the diff centre back in the casing is a complete bitch, and the undoing of everything is also a pain because if like me, your diff hasnt been touched basically since the day it left the front door at Nissan, youll find that plenty of the bolts are quite happy where they have been for the past ~15 years and arent too keen on moving without some serious encouragement... Ill report back here as to how it goes, and Ill be at Wakefield on Thursday, so again Ill post again in this thread letting you all know how it helps in terms of getting a bit more power down out of corners. Damn Im happy to have it all back together... haha

My god I hate the stupid diff to tailshaft bolts... Finally have two of them off, two of them still stuck on and two 14mm ring spanners broken in the process... haha Anyone with any tips or tricks to get them off? Before it is suggested, I have *soaked* these mofos in WD40, and I have been using a hammer to smack the spanners and work the bolts loose. The biggest prob I am having is that there is so little room that the ring of the ring spanner is actually too thick to get over the top of the bolt, so Ive had to grind down two crappy spanners in order to fit them over. Obviously this wouldnt help the strength (especially with the questionable strength of crappy spanners in the first place), even more so when youre smacking them with a mallet. So Id say thats why the two have broken...

It was me who bought sidd his 1.2mm shim and one for myself!! Ill be giving this a go tomorrow. Hoping that this should help with traction out of corners when Im at Wakefield next week. Ill report back as to how 2.8mm of total shim preload works for a daily with light track duties. Fingers crossed all goes to plan and that I can find someone to give me a hand lifting the diff out/back into position...